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About technoid

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  1. Update: Ok, so finally, got this all finished up last weekend. I was in no hurry, but 3 months downtime makes me wish I could've hurried a little more, heh. Purchased a new 500gb drive and drive enclosure (with eSATA III & USB 3), for a total of just under $45, as external backup device a couple weeks before. I used the eSATA mode since that is the fastest method of my 6 year old laptop. I used DMDE shareware, as was recommended above, and put it on a USB stick. Never used file recovery tools before so it was at first confusing but was able to figure out the basics. I found out what they meant by "directory recovery is only with paid editions". In freeware mode, which is what I used, only per-file recovery is available. You cannot just click on a folder you want to recover. So what I did was manually add the necessary folders (and any nested folders) on the backup drive and then recovered the files into their designated directory. Then recovered files in next nested directory, etc. Unfortunately I was only able to recover 70gb instead of the 80gb I lost, because I recalled I did do some file activity that I forgot about, approximately 5gb's worth, right after I lost the 80gb, so that's probably why I couldn't find 10gb of it in dmde's file recovery windows. The recovered files were in mostly good condition. However, a few of the files are actually backup copies of DVD movies and when I recovered entire movie folders and then run them as usual, it didn't work, but most of the VOB's seem to run fine by themselves. I can always recopy the movies. Or I can always try re-authoring, which is something I've never done before, so this looks like an opportunity to learn that skill. I also keep a changelog on all my computers, for hardware and software changes, so luckily I was able to read my records and trace what other possible files of the 10gb that are lost forever that were not seen in the file recovery window. Anyway, thanks all for the help.
  2. Thanks for the replies so far guys... Ok so DMDE looks like a good candidate, it's only about 1 mb and can be used on usb. However, the description says the freeware version has some kind of recovery limitation, but not sure exactly what it's saying: "DMDE has a number of freeware features such as disk editor, simple partition manager (e.g. allows partition undeleting), a tool to create disk images and clones, RAID constructor, file recovery from the current panel. Paid editions support file and directory recovery without the restriction, DMDE Professional Edition has additional features to recover data for clients (compare editions)." What restriction??
  3. Hello, Last weekend, I accidentally permanently-deleted (shift+del) about 80gb of files and folders. Of course, would like them ALL back, or most, if it can't be helped. I don't know what happened, I only wanted to delete a subfolder's worth of files, but instead deleted a bunch of other folders with files. Perhaps my mouse button got stuck or something and drag-highlighted them, who knows. But I knew something was wrong as when it was in the process of deleting, it was taking longer than expected and the popup delete window listed "hundreds" of gigabytes rather than only a few gigs. After a few seconds I quickly canceled, but by that time I already lost ~80gb. Better than the hundreds of gigs though that it was about to kill. It has been probably 10-15 years since I've done anything like this and obviously was not on Win 7 (probably 98SE or XP, can't recall), so I need some refreshing. Or if Win 7 has an undelete of its own? This is on a Win 7 laptop. I've googled for freeware undelete apps, but not sure which one is the best. Yes, I would prefer freeware if possible. I only saved one file on purpose that was only a few kilobytes long so don't know if it saved over one of the lost files. Before the delete, the drive only had about 1.5gb. After losing the 80gb, the capacity went up to ~81.5gb. I have not touched the laptop in about a week. Also, once an undelete software is chosen, how do you install it on the drive without it potentially overwriting these deleted files? Or can it be run on a memory stick or burned cd? Anyway, need your help on this delicate matter, thanks.
  4. On one of our 98SE PC's, we have been using OE6 for close to 20 years now. It's not perfect, there have been some times there have been issues that couldn't be (and have been) solved, but it's easy to use and has been of good convenience and we don't intend to stop using it, at least once it's hopefully fixed/perfect again. In the past year though, my dad has friends that keep sending tons of mails with large megabyte attachments, mostly unprocessed photos from their smartphones (they aren't computer nerds, so they know nothing about jpeg compression). Some of these attachments were in the order of 5MB to 10MB or more. After looking at them, he/we usually then delete the email(s). However, as most know, the megabytes increase the filesize of the Inbox db. The filessize stays the same even after you trash the emails, until you then have to compact it. Well, we neglected to compact the Inbox for a while now, so the size bloomed to almost 900MB. When I recently (a few days ago) attempted to compact, it said something (I didn't jot it down) to the effect of "msimn caused invalid page fault in directdb.dll." I looked this up and it said to replace the corrupt folder db. When I tried that it pretty much erased (or reset) everything in the Inbox. We don't want that to happen, because we still have tons of mail in there we do not want to get erased. Luckily I made a backup of the Inbox db, so I recopied that back in the appropriate folder (under \Identities folder). So what are our options? Here are some of my ideas of which I haven't tried anything yet > - First idea: Make a new folder, say "Inbox_temp", then move all the email from the corrupt Inbox db to this one, then rename it back to Inbox, while the previous Inbox is first renamed to something else. However, the question is, when I start/click the "Mail Sending/Receiving" button, will it start receiving from the last point forward, or will it start receiving from the very first email on the server? Note, we only have 56k dialup, and there is about 1.5 GB of mail on the email server, so if this new Inbox happened to start at the very beginning, it would takes days to complete. We don't want it to start from the very first email on the server. - Second idea: Rename this corrupt Inbox to something else, like "Inbox_Old", then let OE6 automatically make a new empty Inbox. However, will this new Inbox also start receiving mail from the first and oldest email from the server or will it start from the last time the receive button was pushed? I assume it will start from the very beginning which is what we don't want. I am thinking the first idea has some promise, but not really sure. We don't want to continue receiving new mail into this corrupt Inbox, but if we get a new (or possibly repaired) Inbox, we want to start receiving mail at the last point it left off (which would be about a couple weeks ago, iirc). Any other ideas? This PC's specs are: Win 98SE (with Soporific autopatcher), Pentium-based mobo with 256MB memory (max) at 75Hz frontside bus, 450MHz AMD K6-III, and about 750MB harddisk free. Yeah, it's an old machine, heh. Because of the low overhead of the CPU and memory and the bloated 900MB Inbox, Outlook Express will sometimes say low memory and will not show the Inbox unless I recover as much memory as possible as well as a fresh reboot. However, I know it will run perfectly and quickly once the Inbox is properly optimized. Anyway, we need your input, thanks.
  5. Ok thanks I checked that printersetup.pdf and it helped, only just a little. What I discovered was I was entering the decimal codes wrong. As for example from my first post, I wanted to enter the code for "compressed printing" (i.e. 15 or 17 cpi). I mentioned it was Esc + 15 decimal. This is the usual code in practically all Epson FX emulated impact printers. So then in the generic printdriver (for W98SE), I press the escape key which enters as ESC with the angle bracket in the blank line. Then I use the Alt key to enter subsequent numbers. I enter "Alt 15". This all comes on the line as ... <ESC><164>Nope, this doesn't work. I read the PDF and discovered you need 3 decimal numbers to enter, so the 15 for compressed should be keyed in as Alt 015, not Alt 15. So what it should have been was Esc + 015. This comes out on the line as <ESC>^Oi.e. the latter part for 015 shows up as the caret symbol and the letter O. I ran it and it works! Then I remembered that in general that's how you enter in Ascii practically anywhere else in Windows, i.e. you need 3 numbers after pressing the Alt key. There's still some more tinkering around, but at least I was able to get other codes to work with the Alt key for those numbers that don't have symbol on the keyboard. Unfortunately in the printersetup.pdf, when it starts to talk about enter font codes, it doesn't, because it wasn't necessary for the machine it was using it for, so they kept the font commands blank. And still need to know how to add several generic printer drivers to my printer list if possible, etc.
  6. Sorry I'm late to the table here... I still use XP on my main "oldish" laptop. However, because I had to get rid of my broadband a few years ago, I stopped downloading/installing XP updates around 2012. I'm mainly on modem dial-up (even as I post this) and it would've been painful downloading the updates on that. So the question is, is there a patch that can get my XP as updated as possible? I have heard of Harkaz's unofficial SP4 and there is also the POSready, but are those the only two? Obviously with POSready, I cannot do that with live uploading with my dialup, so I could probably scratch that off my list, for now. Is the Harkaz patch only for XP Pro, or can it be used on my XP Home version? Are there any other XP autopatchers? And would I need to backup my current laptop drive in case something goes bad with a patcher? I see there really aren't any threads Pinned up top about this matter, which I thought would be important to keep up there. My laptop specs: Pentium 4 (2.0-2.3GHz) with 1.0GB max DDR, specifically a model HP Pavilion ze5001US. O/S: Windows XP Home Edition with SP3, stopped doing automatic updates somewhere in 2012 as I mentioned above. Would love to see your recommendations, thanks.
  7. Hey all... Haven't been here in awhile. Wow has it been almost 2 years since I last wrote at these boards? Anyway, does anyone know how to "fully" use the 'Generic / Text only" printer driver in Windows?; Specifically in Win 9x (95/98), but would also like info for XP and 7. I have several 9 and 24-pin impact dotmatrix printers I would like to use. I've set up the Generic driver, but at default settings, i.e. the printer command & font selection folders in the driver are blank. Ok, so it Works nice at default, my printers print at a default with printer's native Pica font (10 cpi). And much faster than the Windows print driver because the Generic driver prints directly with the printers text commands, not graphically as with the Win driver. However, I don't quite know how to use the font selection, etc. and how to fully enter the control codes. I have been able to change to the Elite setting (12cpi) by entering "<ESC>M", but what if I need compressed 17cpi? For compressed font, one of my printers has a control code sequence of hex 27 and 15. But I tried <ESC><15> and it didn't seem to work. With Elite I was able to type in the M after ESC, but with hex 15, there is no symbol for that. I checked the info in the balloons (help info using rightclick mouse) and it says to enter codes in decimal, but it didn't give any examples. The Font selection folder under Generic's properties has lines to select 10cpi, 12cpi, etc. How do I use this? If I enter the control sequence for 10cpi as <ESC>P and also simultaneously enter the sequence for 12cpi as <ESC>M, how does it know which one to print with if you have both cpi's filled in? Another question is, how can I add several generic drivers to my printer list for the different printers (different settings for same printer) that I have? When I add more than one Generic driver, they all seem to copy each other's commands. For example, I add 2 generic drivers, call them Generic 1 and Generic 2. The first is for one model dotmatrix printer, say a Panasonic, the 2nd one is for say, my Epson. But if I enter control codes in Generic 1 and then look in Generic 2's properties, the same control codes from 1 get copied there. And when I erase them in 2, they also get erased in 1! What am I doing wrong? In the print command folder there is also another place to add different, I forget the name, it' a dropdown selection, but the same thing happens, it gets copied to the other generic driver. I did try this in XP, i.e. added 2 generic printers in my list, and it looks like the control codes don't get copied to each other. So it looks like each Generic printer is unique. However, I never tested them to see if they worked with my printers. In summary... 1. What format do I enter in control code sequences? 2. How can I add more than one generic driver to my 95/98SE printer list with each driver unique for different model printers and doesn't copy each other's codes? 3. As in #2, how can I add generic drivers for the same model printer so that e.g. one driver is to print in Pica and another driver on the list (for same printer model) will print in Elite with Bold and Underline settings? I found more info about the generic print driver at , but it was very scarce info at best and didn't really do anything for me at all. I did some further Googling and surprisingly there really are no other places I can find any complete guides for this. Anyway, need help and hope I haven't confused anyone, thanks.
  8. Did anyone ever come out with a CPU/bus clock divider program that can mess around with the chipset overriding the BIOS so as to change bus clock ratios? I am currently upgrading an "old" (late 1990's) Pentium socket 7 motherboard, an ABIT AX5, specifically. Fastest FSB in BIOS is 83 MHz. There are no clock divider features in its BIOS. I would love to increase CPU freq to 83 (from 66), however, doing so can risk the PCI clock, because it would be at 41.5 (half of 83) instead of the normal 33 MHz. I already tried this and one of my hard drives got messed up. I have read that some peripherals cannot handle that high of a PCI speed. I also had to change the soundcard, because the current one kept locking up due to 83. At 83 FSB, the divider to keep PCI stable would have to be something divisible by 2.5 if there ever was such a thing. Dividing by 3 would underclock the PCI and of course dividing by 2 would still overclock it to 41.5 as I said above. I've looked at programs like SetFSB, SoftFSB, WPCredit, etc, but I am not really seeing anything in there about changing FSB to affect PCI and such unless I haven't looked close enough. For now, I have been keeping the FSB to 75 instead, which ideally keeps the PCI (and ISA) clocks within normal range. CPU is an AMD K6-2 550MHz. So at 75 FSB and a CPU multiplier of x6, I would get 450MHz. But it would be nice to use 83 FSB so I could get 500MHz on the CPU without de-stabilizing everything else. Last resort would probably be to find a 3rd party BIOS maker. Otherwise keep FSB at 75, if nothing else. Oh yeah, Windows 98SE compatibility would be nice too.
  9. Yes and yes. Which version of KMeleon? I'm not sure how you're installing it if you're having problems. I've loaded different skins in the past. However, after using K-Meleon 1.54 recently for 2-3 years, I was flustered with it because it couldn't handle javascript very well, among other little issues. I went back to Opera, running version 10.63, the last version for native 98SE, as I mentioned in an earlier post. I have never gone back to K-Meleon, even the later beta versions. Try Opera 10.63 instead, it's much more stable (and relatively newer) than K-Meleon 1.54... and most importantly, you don't even need KernelEX...
  10. I use Opera 10.63, the last known 98se version. No need for KernelEx, it runs natively kernel-wise. Before that I was natively using Firefox (never tried though) and subsequently K-Meleon 1.54. Firefox was a memory hog taking time to start-up. K-Meleon was faster, but it would freeze on java-scripts on some websites. You can disable javascript but then most of the website would not work. These issues would make you tear your hair out, especially when you're using some of my slower computers (400 MHz or so) with no more than 256mb system memory max, and surfing the net on 56k dial-up. Luckily I figured I would go back to Opera and found out about 10.63. Yes, 10.63 is dated a little, not much you can do, unless you use later versions of browsers using said KernelEx, but I say it's fixed a lot of these issues and so it works very well for me. For simple browsing/surfing, I have not gone back to anything else. And 10.63 is free (well, all Opera versions are free). Opera 9x works nicely too, just a little more dated. As far as watching movie clips in 10.63, like on Youtube, I don't have an answer, because being on dial-up, I can't really do that. One important feature that 10.63 has (and all versions since) is "Opera Turbo", a sort of browsing accelerator. This helps compresses pictures, so they upload faster to your computer from the internet, sometimes 1.5 to 6 times faster than normal. Perfect for narrowband, like dial-up. People on broadband take this for granted, so if they ever get bumped back to dial-up without some sort of accelerator, they'll be in for a slow treat. Netzero, a dial-up internet service, also feature their own accelerator, but you have to pay like $5 more than their regular service. Anyway, try 10.63, you can find it at .
  11. I too still use my 1 GHz Pentium III. Actually I have two of them, same make/model, acquired over a decade ago, free from the company I used to work for (it was a promotion campaign for employees). One runs 98SE for web browsing, files, etc. The other one is in the living room, running Win 2k as a home theater pc, connected to a digital projector. Fortunately I kept 486's. I upgraded one and is also running in the office, at the front desk no less, heh. Another is a 486SX laptop, but at only 4 MB system memory (and no way to increase it), it's a little difficult to make it run anything but Win 3.11 (Win95 works, but very very limited in scope). I also have another 486, but it's actually a 286 motherboard with a 486 CPU. Sometimes a better way for me to find computer stuff is at Goodwill (a U.S. thrift store). I've found motherboards, monitors, harddrives, graphics/sound cards, DIMMs, hubs/switches, USB stuff, you name it. Of course you have to dig through all the crap. Thus in some ways it's more convenient and cheaper than finding stuff on eBay/Internet (i.e. no ship fees, no ship time), but that is sometimes balanced out that what you might get might need some fixing if you know how to. I had to fix an LCD monitor by replacing the caps that feed the backlight. Other than that I've been satisfied.
  12. Thanks for the feedback thus far. I am taking my sweet time with this and just need to know which path I will take. I don't really want to mess it up further, although whether choosing the best choice will still make it end up that way. Yes, again, it boots and I can get into the F8 list. But choosing any of the things on the list (safe modes, CLI, last known config, debugger, VGA mode... all of them) will still eventually hang the boot less than a second after I make the choise. At another forum, some people suggest doing some cut and paste with files that may be the culprit, but the problem is knowing which file is the corrupt culprit. Perhaps really doing an error-check (chkdsk/scandsk) would be the simplest and most effective way. Actually I did both, scandisk in 98SE and also checkdisk in DOS, on this dying heated drive and it messed things up even more. The heat really f*cked things up to the point that no auto-repair helped and only did further damage. As I said, I still have the same drive some 10 years later in the same configuration and am in no hurry reformatting it or salvaging any surviving files to another drive. I just don't do any error-checking whatsoever because I know what will happen, heh.
  13. No, I really am wanting to test LAN, not Internet, speeds. I just need to see where there are any bottlenecks in the network (in this case, it's just a P2P (peer to peer)) and speed rates between PC's. But now that I look back, I recall also installing Lanlights (by P.Mather) right after installing Speedtest. Iirc, it's also supposedly compatible with 98SE if I read the specs right. So perhaps it was Lanlights (version 1.1.14, circa 2008) and not Speedtest (1.06) that borked up my 98SE system. And yes, Speedtest supposedly also benchmarks LAN bandwidths. Anyway, I'm not about to reinstall both of them again until I'm sure which one is the culprit. I lost dialup connectivity and had a heck of a time trying to reinstall it until I found that reinstalling modem drivers first and then DUN did the trick. I even tried reinstalling most of Autopatcher (Soporific) before my discovery, which didn't help. I'm guessing Lanlights (and/or Speedtest) overwrote some files with its own versions that were incompatible with MSDUN 1.3 and 1.4 etc. I guess what I'll do for now is just manually do my own time trials by transferring big files between PC's over the P2P and see how long they take and then "do the math".
  14. I was lurking this thread and wanted to post something a couple weeks ago about trying NOT to send this perfectly good working PC to the dumpster / recycler. So I too am glad you found someone to donate it to. Let's hope this "someone" won't actually scrap the PC and actually have it put to good use... as a working PC of course, not 'good use' as in "scrap metal", heh. I myself try to keep "old" PC's in working order. I have Pentium-class motherboards from the mid to late 1990's still running in my office. Good for working office apps like Office 97, et al. I try to upgrade them to the max (versus what specs they originally were when they were bought new as factory spec) to get a little more years out of them, so in effect saving tens of thousands of dollars for newer systems. Of course I have some new systems, built for XP and 7, etc, so it really depends if you need newer systems or not. Of course, that common "Law of Usefulness" usually states that "the older the [computer] system, the less useful it becomes in the future", which means that the 8088/86's systems I still have don't get much power-on status than my later systems. Nice for playing older games and DOS stuff though.
  15. Actually I was also thinking of doing a checkdisk in RC, but forgot to comment/ask on it earlier. I've had two notable checkdisk experiences in the past, one negative, one positive. A decade ago, I had the main HDD in my 98SE Pentium3 tower go bad, probably due to heat, as I know the drive got hot to the touch, almost like a CPU without a heatsink. I've since put a fan to blow on this drive and it works better, must be a bad device or two on its motherboard. It got so bad, that doing a checkdisk (actually, scandisk, within Windows) messed things up even more, some directories and files changed into random names. I lost about maybe a sixth of the contents. I still have the drive, so I can get to some files that I need, but I will not do a check/scan disk on it as I know it will further go downhill, even if the temps are normal. If I ever get off my a** and copy the salvaged parts to another drive, I could probably reuse and reformat it (with a fan on it now of course). The positive one was about 1 or 2 years ago, I was given my niece-inlaw's Win7 laptop to look at because some files and execs weren't functioning right. I did some research online first to be sure before I did any surgery. A checkdisk at bootup did the trick. Took awhile but it seems about 99.99% of the files were saved. I told them to do an checkdisk (error-check) on a regular basis, once a week or so. So now I'm wondering if doing an RC scandisk first is worth it than the cut-n-paste. Hmm...