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About puntoMX

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  • Birthday 09/30/1974

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    Windows 10 x64
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  1. That's actually a nice Philips CRT monitor! On the Dell the best I could find was this: https://www.cnet.com/products/monitor-dell-e771p-17-16-vis-grey-crt-monitor/specs/ Not much to go on, I know. -Ronald
  2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_video_sync It has something to do with the way the screen image is using a sync. I'm sure that the Dell screen was more expensive than the Philips, wasn't it? Edit: One screen must use a different sync, the green sync isn't used for some time now (darn we are getting old :P): "Separate sync: Uses separate wires for horizontal and vertical synchronization. When used in RGB (i.e. VGA) connections, five separate signals are sent (Red, Green, Blue, Horz. Sync, Vert. Sync). Composite sync: Combines horizontal and vertical synchronization onto one pair of wires. When used in RGB connections, four separate signals are sent (Red, Green, Blue, Sync)." Edit 2: Background raster = desktop background image I presume? I put my money on a sync loss than. Another thing might be that the resolution is too high for the monitor (at a certain refresh rate).
  3. I'm not sure why it did work on the other, might be that it doesn't use the sync on the green color, and has it's own sync. My mind is getting rusty so let's see if others can tune in here. Edit: By the way, those cheaper (10USD) "active" adapters don't do much "active".
  4. Hello Bob, I believe you are out of luck, as most analog signals are being removed from new video cards. Convertors from DVI-D / HDMI to VGA are as expensive as a good used screen that has digital inputs. My personal opinion is, drop the analog screens and look for some good used (or new) ISP/VA panel screens on craig-list; eBay seems to have less and less interesting deals on used computer parts. I'm using a 40" 4k screen on a nVidia 1060 card and dropped the dual screen setup I had before. -Ronald
  5. Working with ECC RAM is just tricky, if it's just ECC unbuffered in most cases it will work, buffered I never got to work. The 10 series nVidia cards are good, no driver problems other then in some cases a reduction in memory speed when the card came OCed from the factory. The AMD drivers are not that great either and this is why I switched a week a go to the nVidia 1060 3GB from a AMD x280 card due to the fact that it has a TDP of less than half of the 280x and it supports HDMI2.0. Switching to a new card gave me a HUGE performance upgrade as now I can use the 4k screen at 60Hz; everything runs smoother, especially in the 3D drawing software I'm using. The Rx480 is a great card for sure, can't say what is best for you but I would check out some benchmarks for the software you are using with the video card rendering enabled (if it has that). You also know that Intel is better for video editing, it's just that AMD is more focused on the APU stuff that go into mobile devices these days. AMD still has to release (2017) their new Zen chip that looks promising... Don't know, would consider DDR4 on a standard motherboard and a i5/i7 and enjoy it for the next 4 years, keep the AMD for the repairs/testing you do. This is, if you have the cash to spare, but the Intel is the best investment in the long run. -Ronald
  6. You are right, I scrolled up just now and saw your question and next post had the answer. Well, it's one point less to look at ;).
  7. Sorry, my memory fails me, but I've had this problem before. Are we talking about the slot-in drives (car-stereo load type so to say)? Pioneer had a lot of firmware problems on their drives, but they were darn good when they worked. I believe I fixed the problem by replacing the driver DLL for the drive, or changed the registry, or disabled or enabled 32bit drive support in the BIOS. I might have been disabling SMART, change master/slave in cable select, as well. Microsoft´s fix didn't work for most drives, I think it did work for HP drives in laptops. Check the net if you can find a manual solution editing the registry. I hope you get some ideas from this. -Ronald
  8. This is why I said "if you go this way", like I did, as I wrote above. You don't need 2160p output to use your 1080p. I was only trying to explain my experiences, sorry if it wasn’t useful for you but someone else might see it different.
  9. Well E-66, this is what I can say. 3 Months back I wanted 4k and thus I bought a 500 USD 4k TV. I was using a 23" Dell IPS and so I was a bit picky on the new 4k screen. The new screen is VA and thus it won't show the colors as nice as the IPS under every angle, however, black is black and the VA does a better job than the IPS I had. The new screen is made by Samsung, its 40" and thus comparable with a 27" "2.5k" screen. I play games on it as well, windowed at "2.5k". Downside is that I need to get my display port to HDMI to have the 60Hz refresh rate, but that aside. The TV has a PC setting, this disables all the smart and tuner stuff when it's activated. Color I have calibrated with my AMD video card settings as gray was a bit pink. Fonts are set at 150% and I'm sitting 2.5' / 76cm from the screen. The top of the screen I have a bit above eye-sight but this will change when I make my VESA stand that I can put behind my desk. With the stand I can lower the top of my screen to eye-sight height. If you go this way, make sure your PC has the video output for 4k, I would not recommend 1080p at a 4k screen. Get not the cheapest 4k TV. I could only get Samsung here at 40" and the housing isn't that great compared with the Sony´s that have mostly aluminium bezels (I wanted those, but there were no 40"). I would also stay with a 40" and forget larger screens unless you are sitting at least 3-4' / 92-123cm from them.
  10. There is Pixlr and Inkscape, don't know if they are the best for you but give them a try I would say. Inkscape is darn powerful if you know how to use it, it blows something like Corel Draw away . And rocketdock... err, why have that?
  11. Sorry for the late post, but I would go for something with a name. I don't understand that they sell a PSU with no information other than formfactor and how much watts it can push... sure, peak. I like this PSU for it's price, it even comes with a backplate so if adaption is needed to fit the old HP, you can just drill holes in that plate and not in the PSU: FSP Group Mini ITX / Micro ATX / SFX 300W 80 Plus Certification Power Supply (FSP300-60GHS) However, having used some brand PSUs myself, the most reliable PSUs I've come across were from Silverstone: SilverStone Technology 300W SFX Form Factor 80 PLUS BRONZE Power Supply with +12V single rail, Active PFC (ST30SF) -Ronald
  12. Just get a card that does support larger than 2TB HDDs out of the box and if possible one where you can upgrade the firmware from. See that little 8 pin chip next to the larger square chip? That's where the firmware is stored. I'm sure it's a just out of the box firmware that ASmedia released when they brought the "1061" to the market. Most sellers are just box pushers and they have no clue on what they are selling or than "it sells" .
  13. 4 Days too late but I hope you had a good one .
  14. Looks to me that powersaving of that laptop isn't supported by Windows 10, so it wants to go into powersave mode and messes up the memory. So, it has something to do with power but it's not the battery. Try to disable some powersave settings and see if that helps. But, it’s kind of odd that this happens. Did you try a BIOS update?
  15. Mine works at 4.6GHz, turbo off, but also use a single fan watercooler on it and have the CPU working at 1.2v (1.15v stock). -Ronald