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Huygens

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Everything posted by Huygens

  1. Both are (USB) powered with 5V, so I doubt they work, as they may end up sending a signal with too high voltage to the HD.
  2. I'm guessing, but I think it may work as it is 3.3 V output. But still, remember that different adapters may have different wave forms on their signals, so nothing is sure. Beware that some adapters can be duds as handling during freight can damage the electronics. One piece of advice. The output jumper ends are female, which is good, but they are still to big for the HD, and you don't want to directly sandpaper them down in case you grind too much. Instead buy some male-to-male and some female-to-female jumpers (short cables to keep voltage spikes down) and put at the ends of your adapter output. Then you can sandpaper the female-to-female cable end. If you grind too much just pick another female-to-female jumper. If you already have some nice pins to use, you could skip buying the male-to-male jumpers, or try finding a kit locally with a mix of male and female jumper cables.
  3. That one will probably work correctly if you feed it something like 3.0 - 4.0 V.
  4. Your USB-to-TTL adapter is apparently one of the few USB-adapters which works at the correct 3.3 V level (and _not_ 5 V). Could you tell us what's the make of the USB-to-TTL adapter, chip No, looks or brand name?
  5. 1. Check loopback 2. Check the right signal transfer speed, Hyperterminal or virtual COM port MS Windows System HW setting 3. Check your 3.3 V power to your RS232/TTL adapter 4. Check grounding 5. Check all cables/connection points In your post, you state; "it connects" - exactly what is "it" and why do you think it "connects"?
  6. I think that there are more than 3 firmware faults in those Seagate HDs, resulting in vastly different symptoms on firmware "reset". Could you please provide a little more info. What HD did you exactly unbrick? Also, did you skip or change any of Gradius's steps for unbricking?
  7. I might not be able to help you, but you should rule out the possibility that the PCB has been connected to the disk (motor/head contact not isolated), by completely removing the PCB, put it on an isolated surface and try the Z/U commands again. If you still get your specific error, my guess is that you have a more severe fault than the regular BSY error.
  8. If we assume it's too expensive to send the bricked HD to a data recovery company: What you say is that if the CarterinCanada commands plus the i4 & the F,,22 commands don't work, meaning the HD still isn't detected by BIOS, the HD should be regarded as dead?
  9. Something isn't properly reset, I don't know why, but having read some posts I would also suggest the following. Could you try: F3 T>/2 F3 2>Z <--- (remove paper piece, tighten torx screws)F3 2>U F3 2>/ F3 T>F,,22 F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 <--- (now, power down everything and then test HD in BIOS) with no power down between (F,,22 and m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 commands) and _not_ doing the i4 and _not_ doing the N1 command. There has been some debate concerning the power down, if it's needed or if it could potentially be bad. I think aviko claimed that the i4 command could potentially be harmful, but anyone may correct me, I also think gradius had a different opinion on this i4 matter than aviko. Also, aviko gave this alternative (!) m0 command in this post, when the HD still wasn't detected in BIOS. It may be worth taking a look at. It my be worth noting that there has been some discussion if some commands may destroy data as in this post. The last resort will be to read all 4000 posts in this thread and see if anything rings a bell.
  10. Hard to guess what you mean. You could either search the net for your driver. Or you could try to skip the dialog, perhaps it's some kind of unnecessary setting? If you provide screen shots, things may be more clear to us.
  11. I assume you powered down (and powered up) everything between "F3 1>" and "F3 T>"? On my 500 Gb disk I isolated the head contacts with a thick card board piece (in such a way that the motor contacts probably also were without contact). This may be more tricky as I had to completely untighten 3 torx screws on one side of the board, but it worked for me.
  12. Hmm... Seems like your German adapter is fed with 5V, which may result in 5V output and you want 3.3V. I would try a plain 3.3V adapter like this one from Portugal, which you can feed with anything from 3.0V - 3.6V (and most likely up to 4.5V) to get the correct output signals. Delivery from Hong Kong to Europe doesn't take more than 2-3 weeks even with customs. If the first adapter doesn't work you may want to try buy a second or third. Some adapters have been reported being duds (I have experienced it myself).
  13. I'm not so sure. Seems some data recovery companies can use slightly different PCBs like in this clip. There are also sold 7200.11 replacement PCBs for data recovery, from this site. And here is another clip for a DIY Seagate PCB drive swap (not 7200.11, but 7200.10 it seems).
  14. Answers, partly based on my experience and partly on what I've read: 1. If the HD doesn't show up in BIOS at boot time, there is a higher likelihood that the fault is the so called BSY error. If your data is interesting for you and you have no backup, you should try. 2. You should go the RS232 adapter route in my experience, since a clean USB-to-TTL adapter most often doesn't work with the HD. I did most of the gradius method, with the exception of isolating the HEAD contacts, see this link . Look for example up ebay MAX3232 adapters. Going the mobile phone cable route also seems to work for many people, when they get a working cable with active components (Window drivers too), but some cables just don't cut it. I don't know what you mean with "the-shorter-bsy-only-one". There probably are no short 15 minutes fixes for this problem. 3. Switching PCB is an absolute last resort and the only case it has seemed to work is when someone has had two identical HDs (one working fine, one having BSY error), switched PCBs and powered them up with BIOS (which is rumored to reset at least on of the PCB's firmware), then switched back the PCBs to their original HDs. It's _not_ recommended as it may put the PCB/HD in an undefined state from which there is no recovery. 4. No internet connection is needed for the actual unbricking. Read carefully everything you can find on it, beginning with the start of this thread, also helpful and important is this link and also this link (which are mentioned several times elsewhere). Read, read, read, puke, read, read. 5. Yes.
  15. It may not be enough that the signal is 3.3V. The shape of the signal could interfere too. I would try an RS232 adapter as most USB adapters don't work with the Seagate HD. It could also be important how low the low signal is, 0.79 V is quite high for being a low signal and may not be low enough for the HD to recognize it as a low signal, as the signal toggles up and down during communication. Also verify that the GND on the adapter is the same GND on the PCB side, by connecting each to a multimeter and getting a resistance of max 5 Ohm.
  16. Perhaps not a dud, but just not suitable for your HD. Try another adapter based on RS232 instead, to get the correct 3.3 V.
  17. No, response, not even garbage? I think your adapter either sends or expects 5V signals as there is a clean USB-connector on the PC side. You should try another adapter which is sure to send 3.3V signals. You don't give much details how your wires are drawn. Is there a GND to GND cable between TTL adapter & HD? Don't you need to have a RS232-to-TLL adapter between the DB9 and your HD, if I'm not completely wrong? Correctly powered too?
  18. Serial No: 9QM8QNCP Model: ST3500320AS Part N°: 9BX154-303 Firmware: SD15 DateCode: 09192 (manufac. date): N/A SiteCode: KRATSG PurchaseDate: 2008-12-03 FailedDate: 2011-08-15 OEM/RETAIL: Tagged as "OEM", bought new as Retail UserName: Huygens Country of User: Sweden fail reason/fine: BSY (not detected in BIOS), see un-brick procedure OS: Ubuntu Server 64-bit (started with ver. 8.04 LTS, upgraded to ver. 9.04, finally upgraded to ver. 10.04 LTS) PSU: ADVANCE, Model MPT-460P (460 Watts)
  19. Sorry to reignite such an old discussion but this is the only post I can find that is experiencing the LED:0000000CC FAddr:0025BE0F problem. I am getting the exact same error when I try to spin down the motor. Did you ever find a solution for this? Have you removed the PCB and placed it on a non-conducting/isolated surface and then given the spin-down command? If you still experience an error, I guess you may have some serious problem with your PCB. If not, your measure for isolating the PCB from the Motor or Head contacts is insufficient. Don't use conducting cardboard paper, haha. What's your HDs Model No? See also LED error - too quick input(?)
  20. You seem like having gone through ALL the loopholes ALREADY documented in the READ-ME-FIRST (which obviously you haven'ìt read first... I read the READ-ME-FIRST several times, but: 1. It doesn't help you in any obvious way to decide exactly what adapter to buy if you go the USB-to-TTL-adapter road. And the adapters may also have different configurations (yes, also the RS232-to-TTL may vary). Not to mention being DOA, having been sent in a squeezed small package half around the globe. 2. I read it several times, and it's not simple to absorb all details from. 3. I t doesn't mention that you shouldn't solder to the pins on your HD's PCB, which I tried first, before sandpapering my jumper cable ends. Seagate still issues the same firmeware version, SD1A for ST3500320AS, as they did at the time, 2009. The same version, SD1A, which was reported in Tom's Hardware to have a 100 % brick-ratio on ST3500320AS (500 Gb) HDs, but apparently worked in some cases on 1 Tb and 1.5 Tb HDs. I would also like to point out that providing my Model No and S/N to the on-line Seagate Find-Firmware web page, I constantly got an error message for both my HDs, and yes I triple and quadruple checked that I provided the correct numbers. My guess is that Seagate knows that SD1A bricks an ST3500320AS (500 Gb Barracuda 7200.11) but doesn't inform the reader, and instead replies with an error code on the Find-Firmware page to obscure the problem. I have given my Model No and S/N at start of my first post, for anybody to validate. Also, Seagate has protected the Find-Firmware page with a RECHAPTCHA code, perhaps to avoid anyone from trying too loop over sequences of S/N:s to figure out if any ST3500320AS HDs will be reported as having a valid firmware? The Firmware-Finder can be reaches by clicking "Use our serial number check utility" at http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=207951 then clicking "Click here to use the download finder." and a pop-up window will appear.
  21. I un-bricked my Seagate Barracuda HD 7200.11 500 Gb, ST3500320AS, S/N: 9QM8QNCP, firmware SD15, which had the BSY error (not found by BIOS). I bought almost all my hardware from ebay, most of the HW was sent from Hong Kong (to Europe). I used Windows XP, SP 3 and Hyperterminal. First I tried to use two different USB-to-TLL adapters. The first one, the red in lower part of the picture, was DOA, a dud. The second one worked nicely in loopback mode, but only produced the arrow character (in Hyperterminal) when run against the HD. The red adapter, a FTDI FT232BM/BL chip, which required a USB cable (A-male to B-female), never worked and was never detected by Windows. The green-blue adapter, a Prolific PL2303 chip worked in loopback only. When the USB-to-TTL Prolific adapter was used, it produced the ARROW character in Hyperterminal. My guess is that the USB-TTL adapter sent signals at 5 Volts level and required 5 Volts responses, but maybe the HD only could send 3.3 Volts signals, so the Prolific USB-TTL adapter didn't work. So for people having problem with only getting an arrow prompter, switch to an adapter which sends and receives signals around 3.3 Volts. Now to my solution, mostly following Gradius, with the exception for the placement of the paper piece under the HD PCB. My torx screws on my HD were so hard stuck that I had to turn my torx screw driver with a wrench. In the picture I've placed my magnetic iron wrench dangerously close to my HD. Don't do this at home. And yes, the HD is placed on my anti-static free bed. The paper on the HD is a piece cut out from a shoe box, so yes again, I repaired my Seagate HD with a shoe box. I also used a 2 feet long Molex cable for power (connected to the PCs power supply), here with the HD SATA power cable piece connected at the end. I never managed to separated them after having un-bricked my HD. I used a MAX3232 RS232-to-TTL adapter on the HD side. I soldered the minus side of the battery holder by a wire to the ground of the screw holder of the RS232 plug on the adapters circuit board. The plus side of the batteries where connected to the VCC pin on the upper side of the RS232-TTL adapter. The ground pin on the upper side of the RS232-to-TTL adapter was used to connect ground to my HD. So I connected two cables to ground on the adapter circuit card, one to the minus pole of the batteries and the other ground to the ground of the HD. On the PC side I used a USB-RS232 adapter, which I think is based on a Prolific chip (note, this Prolific adapter was USB-RS232, not the failed/arrow USB-TTL prolific mentioned earlier). The USB-RS232 was molded into nice clear green-blue plastic + connected to a short USB A-male to A-female cable. The prolific USB-RS232 adapter needed a driver installation and I also opened the HW lister in XP (Control Panel/System/HW) and raised the adapter's transfer speed to 38400 bps, serial port COM5. I used three "1.5 Volts" batteries, which gave a total of 4.01 Volts (not exactly the sum of 1.5 * 3). I guess the voltage has to be between 3.0 - 4.5 Volts for this adapter to work smoothly with the HD. I used a bloody amount of grinding with sandpaper on my jumper cable ends to make them fit into (over) the HD pins. In the picture you can also see the shoe box piece and how far I inserted it under the circuit board, and yes I put it under the Head connections, but I suspect that the Motor connection was also broken because the paper was so thick and really raised the PCB. At first I got a lot of garbage in Hyperterminal, even in loopback mode, when speed was higher than 4800 bps, then I discovered that the batteries were not properly connected. So connect your batteries correctly if you get garbage in Hyperterminal while doing the loopback test! Here is my Hyperterminal session, I started by pressing CTRL-Z: F3 T>/2 F3 2>Z Spin Down Complete Elapsed Time 0.139 msecs F3 2>U Spin Up Complete Elapsed Time 6.473 secs F3 2>/1 F3 1>N1 F3 1> I removed the shoe box piece and tighten the torx screws as Gradius recommended after spin down. At end I ripped the power connection to the HD and some funny sparks flew and I heard "knittering" sound. Maybe I should have powered down my PC instead? Anyway, I waited 60 seconds before putting back the SATA power cable into my HD. I then disconnected and reconnected Hyperterminal, pressed CTRL-Z, then ran the dangerous command: F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 00, Max Certify Rewr ite Retries = 0000 User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00008DED, ErrCode 000 00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs F3 T> I then installed my HD and backed up my data. It worked like a charm. Then I wanted to update the firmware to SD1A, but found the following: Article from Tom's Hardware on firmware bricking Seagate HDs Locked Seaget forum thread, indicating a complete formware mess Tom's Hardware writes: "A time of writing, 100 percent of users who attempted the update have bricked their drives with the new firmware, rather than preventing failure." Does this mean I shouldn't update my firmware on my 500 Gb 7200.11 HD?
  22. My last two comments have to be reversed to be in the right order.

    They are cut because comments have length limits. /H.

  23. (continued...)

    My guess is that I remove all screws? Later, I only screw back one screw? But why do I only use paper on one screw hole, as there must be more screw holes?

    I hope my question isn't too stupid.

    Thanks in advance.

    /reg. Huygens

  24. Hi!

    On

    you write "Second, you need to remove the PCB..."

    Do I need to remove all screws or just certain screws?

    As you write on page__st__100

    the following "You can work with just 1...

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