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About LiquidSage

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    Wayward Prophet
  1. Since you want them white or black (I'm a bit confused exactly what you want after reading the 3rd paragraph...), you won't need to go crazy trying to get a mirror shine on it. Krylon paint for plastics would probably be your best bet. It bonds very well and is durable. A few important pointers..... 1.Prep is key to all paint jobs! 98% of painting is prepping. Make sure you tape of and cover what will not be painted. Do what the can says for cleaning the plastic. The paint will bond to the plastic so there should be no need to scuff up the speakers as long as they are clean. 2. Be extra diligent spraying several light coats. You must resist the urge to do 'touch ups' right after you spray or else you will get runs in the paint. Also, make sure you spray across in a straight line. Try not to 'arc' as you spray. (If you use a spray paint that isn't made for plastics, the whole process can become a chore. Takes lots of time and to do it right, requires more $ for adhesion promoters and supplies.) However, I prefer to use TopFlite Monokote. It's a film that is mainly used on model airplanes. It comes in several colors and is extremely durable. All you need is a iron and a hairdryer and you can stretch it to cover most anything. I used this quite a bit back in the day when I was modding X-BOX's for people. -It looks cleaner than most paint job's (esp. the silver color. It literally provides a mirror finish). -There is no mess or chemicals and you can handle you project immediately. -It bonds permanently with plastic. Monokote is by far more resistant to 'wear and tear' damage compared to paint. (You can use it for things like game controllers and it won't rub off or get nasty.) However paint will look better when / if damage sets in. You can get a roll of Monokote at hobby shops or online. A roll should run ~$20 and will cover a pretty large surface area. Should be more than enough for 2 speakers. (Most hobby shops can cut you smaller sheets if you don't want a full roll.. Hope fun!
  2. .cgi It fits.... Though I tend to exploit right back if detected
  3. Simple misunderstanding. Glad you didn't take it to personally. Also, if you plan to edit more exe's in the future you might want to try PE-explorer or Restorator 2007. They are not free, but I find them to be more convenient and quicker to work with.
  4. Okay.... this is going to be harsh and I would like to think every post I have ever made on MSFN has been a positive contribution. Now lets get the facts straight and see where it takes us. 1st. What type of menu are you trying to make? A boot menu or a windows autorun menu? There is nothing original at all about that menu. MS has never made a boot menu even remotely like it. It is a custom boot menu made just to mimic XP's autorun menu. Now I assume you want to add/change some pics & text while maybe moving a few choices to different menu pages. This leads me to... If this is an autorun menu. You are right none of them will work. However, you don't want to delete options like "Boot from UBCD for Windows" or "Boot from Hard Drive" either. In an autorun menu these options are completely ludicrous. If however, you aim really is to create a nice XP setup-ish GUI boot menu, then I'm just going to be blunt.... You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. It helps to actually just sit down and read the dreaded help files and maybe try one of their example projects. You can make a multi page XP-setup style GUI boot menu with what I said in my 1st post: bcdw, cdshell+bcdw or Easyboot. If your goal was a autorun menu you would have pulled up pages and pages of results and usable projects and was to edit the original MS exe if you used the SEARCH feature and actually read some of the threads. No matter what kind of menu you are trying to create, you basically just want to edit a few text strings and change a pic or two. Doing just that is incredibly fast and easy. Stop wasting your time scouring the net hoping a solution will appear and instead familiarize yourself with the files in your project and the syntax they use. Again, please keep in mind I'm no stranger to my own advise and I'm actually trying to help you out. I'm more than willing to help (as most are on MSFN) if you are willing to start over, take a little time to explain again what type of menu you are editing, what it will be used for, and what changes you wish to make. ****It seems the solution worked itself out while I wrote this post. Go figure.
  5. For wma/wmv DRM files you can change the folder view to Details. Then add "Protected" detail column and simply sort by "Protected" to weed out those files. If you have many songs in many folders, you can use search to list all files and then sort by 'Protected' as well. Not sure if this will work w/ other file types however. You might try looking in the preferences of whatever converter you use to see if allows automatic and/or silent continuation if it encounters an error.
  6. That menu more than likely was made with bcdw. Look for a bcdw folder or a bcdw.ini file. If not bcdw then cdshell+bcdw or Easyboot would be my next guess. Open your ISO in UltraISO and see if any folders are hidden if you can't find the config file. Doing a web search for the bootloader or reading the help file will explain proper syntax and provide many examples. (Actually, if you first tried doing a simple search for 'boot menu' or 'UBCD boot menu" you probably would have been done with this already)
  7. Do not touch the lens! If a squirt of compressed air isn't enough to clean it then…well… (This reminds me of such memorable stories as the old lady who forced a floppy into a cd drive and the kid who put his PB&J sandwich in the VCR hoping to watch it.) Optical drives use a laser diode driver to properly access media. To be backwards compatible with the CD-R/W standard, current DVD-R/W's incorporate Multimode laser diode drivers. This allows the drive to adjust the beam and operate at the proper current and pulse to handle the media type you choose to give it. If this was damaged, the drive most likely wouldn't work at all. However, it has happend to others as GrofLuigi pointed out. is possible to adjust the beam intensity manually and if the little control inside your drive managed to move a bit, it could interfere with accessing CD's properly. I mention it only because it is a possibility. Realistically, I wouldn’t worry about it at all right now. Adjusting the beam intensity is a rather well known DIY fix for playstation's and XBOX's that have problems reading game discs or to increase the likely hood of successfully recognizing home burned discs depending on the drive. This shortens the lifespan of the drive, but beats buying a new system for a while. Adjusting beam intensity manually should never be done on R/RW drives however. lets try a few things to make sure it's not a software/ OS issue. You tried 2 different win98 systems, but more than likely have the same wnaspi layer installed and burning software plus who knows what else. 1. Delete Upper and Lower device filters from the registry. Most DVD/ CD related software install their own hardware filters to interact with your drive. It's very possible that some of your filters are buggy or have conflicts. Just about any and every problem you can think of could be caused by filter issues. (Bad TOC's, CRC problems, system lock up's when the drive reads media, slow burns, etc) Now to repair in 2000 or newer systems, navigate to: HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} and delete UpperFilters and LowerFilters. Immediately reboot the PC. I'm a bit rusty with win98 so you may find it easier to just search the registry for the above class to delete the U/LFilters entries. An easier method if you have WMI/WBEM repository installed. Filter Detection and Removal Tool 4.6 (After reboot, you may later find that some programs that interact w/ your drive won't work anymore. Find the most recent version of the program in question and reinstall to fix. I would make it a point to do 1 at a time to evaulate it's effect on the system. It would be wise to backup your registry before editing the registry.) 2. Go to and download ForceAspi. The author recommends to then: Can't beat good advise...... 3. Now grab an audio CD and a data CD, and see if you have any luck. Also check that DVD's are recognized as well. If not just let us know and we can try other solutions that are even more frustrating and time consuming to complete. I'd like to point out that your DVD drive is sharing an IDE channel with a HD. On old mobo's the IDE channel will default to the fastest setting of the slowest drive. Basically your HD is not as quick as it could be, esp. because you set the DVD drive to PIO-4 IN BIOS. Addionaly, the BIOS defaulting to lowest PIO mode on that channel would suggest you are using a 40pin IDE cable or a damaged 80pin cable. Go to newegg, fork over ~$5 and get yourself the proper cable. In fact, replace the other IDE cable if it's in bad shape or is 40pin. It will cost you next to nothing and will improve speed and reliability of your drives. If you do decide to keep that HD connected on the same channel, avoid burning any data directly from it. Move any files you decide to burn to one of your 120gb hd's first or you could run into I/O issues and wind up making coasters. Hope it helps!
  8. Did you run chkdsk with the /f switch on the active system partition before making your image? If not, give it a try. As with all software, the latest version may not be the best to use. Try making an image from a TI build that is a bit older than the one you are using now. I've been using TI since version 6 and actively participate as one of many beta testers. Acronis has a somewhat well known track record for releasing minor build updates that sometimes cause major headaches. Broken compatibility with controllers that normally are supported and image creation/restoration issues under certain conditions is not uncommon to run into. I would think any imaging or partition utility is just as likely to run into those problems. What makes Acronis better than most IMO is their genuine interest to resolve issues, provide support for newer hardware, and release updates. (I can think of a few companies that hardly ever issue updates for new controllers or fix major bugs.) Keep in mind they can't fix what they don't know is broken. If you are sure you have done everything right, you should let tech support know and they can give you a little utility that will collect the necessary hardware info they need to correct the problem. Also, you should give a serious look at the TI FAQ's + Common Problems/Solutions thread over at Wilders Security Forums.
  9. Since MPC and WMP9 can play the files, you can take a deep sigh of relief knowing that your wmv files are fine. This is a codec issue and / or a WMP .dll registration issue Please refer to this very insightful webpage that covers just about every issue involving WMP & wmv/asf. WMP FAQ: A trouble-shooting guide for Windows Media Player problems I believe your problem specificlly is a dll issue and is not a major hassle to fix. However I'm willing to bet a reinstall of MS's codec package will fix the problem quickly. Get it here. Install and reboot. If for some crazy reason you still can't play your files, get Dial-a-fix and run it using the options to register WMP, Direct X, programming cores/runtimes, etc. If in the future you do have a damaged .asf/.wmv file and need to repair it, try either asfbin or Movica. Both are free. asfbin is IMO the best utility you can use to re-index and remove damage from those files.
  10. 1. Do you have enough free space on the drives you are using to make this? Also, your partitions should be NTFS to make this...they are right? 2. What switches are you using in CDimage gui? 3. Are you messing with the folders while you are compiling your image? You can always try mkisofs or UltraISO, MagicISO to name a few.
  11. is a shame. It was a great project. MS apparently didn't really go into detail explaining their decision to do this. The project was active for many years that MS had to have known of it's existence. For now the last builds they may not have objected to are still available on the torrent page. **If a mod decides to blank out the above link... I'll understand
  12. 80x Boot Codes - Make sure that cdsh.bin is at the proper location. - If the image size is 1.5gig+ then mount the image using a virtual CD program and reference the drive in Virtual PC instead of the .ISO directly. - Make sure you are using an agreeable mkisofs for what you are doing. There are quite a few modified versions. (Try using the mkisofs that is included with Bart's PEBuilder.) Please post the structure of your image after it was made with mkisofs. Your problem most likely is incorrect file/folder placement. Nlite allows you to build a ISO with a custom boot loader using mkisofs. Perhaps you should try building through it's GUI and see if that doesn't help you find where you are going wrong.
  13. Alcohol and UltraISO can copy a multisession DVD or CD. Just keep in mind that that the ISO format does not support multisessions. Save your disc image as .nrg, .bin/.cue, .mdf/.mds or any of the other various formats that support a multisession.
  14. Both VMWare and VirtualPC can have problems booting big ISO's. Virtual PC in particular is well known for failing on large ISO files. Do not assume that your DVD ISO is a coaster yet. 1. Whenever testing bootable ISO files that are bigger than 2gig's in size, always mount the ISO to a virtual drive (Alcohol 120, Alcohol 52, Daemon Tools, , Elby Virtual Clone Drive, MagicISO's MagicDisc). Then reference the virtual drive letter instead of the actual ISO file. 2. The NTLDR is probably a result of the above issue but if it still exists, try making a cd size ISO with just a few OS builds at a time. If they work on a CD size ISO, they will work on a DVD size ISO. Additionally, problems may arise if the DVD is bigger than 4 gig's. I remember reading that causes some additional booting issues if not handled correctly due to the placement of files on the actual disc.
  15. I also asked a while back about Virtual CD-RW software.