The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

[BlouBul]

i connect the drive to PC over USB and the PC reaaaally slowly recognizes it as a local disk

...

And another interesting point, the second disk i fixed some time ago behaves the same, the files are no longer accessible and it's either 0 bytes or unrecognized device.

Did you check your external USB enclosure/ Port? What happens if you connect it straight in your PC (not through USB)?

Edited May 10, 2012 by BlouBul

[jaclaz]

Do you have any additional ideas on this?

As Bloubul said try connecting it directly, additionally, and in any case, DISABLE autoplay for the USB.

Basically, the "recovery" procedure in most cases renders the disk as it was before (usually when the "reason" why it was bricked was actually the original "firmaware log at position 320") but in many case, for a numebr of reasons, once "unbricked", partitions and/or filesystem on it may not be anymore recognizable.

In this case (and IF this is the case, it means that you MUST have a non 0 result in BIOS when the dik is connected directly to the motherboard, i.e. the disk is not still - or has reverted to - LBA0 state) the next steps are:

1. imaging the RAW disk
   
2. recover the partition(s), filesystem(s) and if this cannot be done, attempt recovering the files
   

(the above is fully "software" and not anymore "hardware")

jaclaz

[Jimbolino]

Somewhere in the first post is mentioned: "(yellow is +12V so don't use it)"

Without the 12v i didnt got my console up and running.

After i connected both 5v AND 12v, console was working fine, and everything worked like it was supposed to.

Just wanted to share my experience, cheers!

[BlouBul]

Somewhere in the first post is mentioned: "(yellow is +12V so don't use it)"

Without the 12v i didnt got my console up and running.

After i connected both 5v AND 12v, console was working fine, and everything worked like it was supposed to.

Just wanted to share my experience, cheers!

Where did you connect BOTH 5V and 12V to? 12V will definitely fry your hdd connected through your converter at TTL, but you need to power your hdd with the normal full spectrum of power cables.

[jaclaz]

Somewhere in the first post is mentioned: "(yellow is +12V so don't use it)"

At the very beginning of the first post there is printed in BIG LETTERS:

Please make sure you've READ the Read-Me-First Sticky FIRST!

Now, had you actually READ it, you might have seen how (point #3) the RECOMMENDED method to be followed is:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

WHY would we be RECOMMENDING that guide and not first post of this thread?

BECAUSE it is CLEARer, it is step-by-step, has detailed images (including those of connections), and more generally, unlike the first post of this thread it includes a number of "tricks" and suggestions that were found out after the first thread was initiated.

In any case even in first post, the reference to the "yellow" cable is in the context of "how to power the USB/TTL or Serial/TTL converter" and has NOTHING to do with powering the HD.

Try re-reading the whole part in this highlighted version:

Connect TX and RX ports with RS232 to TLL adapter, you'll need something like jumpers in order to do that, or soldering directly to the PCB board. Connect GND and +5V to PC power supply, or similar. Keep in mind those are direct from Seagate sides, so you'll need to connect in this way:

- From PC (TX) to >>> RX (on Seagate)

- From PC (RX) to >>> TX (on Seagate)

You can use RED wire (+5V) from PC power supply. Blacks are GNDs (yellow is +12V so don't use it).

If you don't want to mess with power supply, just use a CR2032 (3V) battery:

The idea was to prevent people from frying the adapter by supplying it 12V instead of the 3 or 5 V required by it (depending on adapter model)

jaclaz

[Gradius2]

Just to let you guys to know... yes, I'm alive and well.

Specially since I decided to change HDD manufacture. ;-)

[jaclaz]

Just to let you guys to know... yes, I'm alive and well.

Specially since I decided to change HDD manufacture. ;-)

Good to see you around and know everything is fine.

But don't be too proud about hard disk manufacturer change, though the 7200.11 (and to some extents the 7200.12) have been total crap, we do have the deskstar/deathstar preceding issue:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitachi_Deskstar

so I won't bet against the possibility that sooner or later another disk manufacturer will fall in a similar issue.

jaclaz

[Bumangero]

My second hardrive stopped working about two years ago, I then bought a new one but I had data on the old drive that I wanted to recover so I didn't throw the drive away. I read about how to try to get it working again but it took me very long time to actually try it out. Today I finally did it and it worked!!! but I had big trouble to succeed with it and that I want to share.

By coincidence I used the converter board with a known exception (sparkfun) that is mentioned in the sticky. I powered it with an external supply at 3 V and grounded it with the drive. I followed the instructions in the first post except that I placed a paper between the pcb and the connectors instead of removing the pcb completely. It connected to the drive with the "ctrl+z" in the terminal window, but I always got the error "LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67" or "LED: 000000CC FAddr: 0024A051". I tried it many times with different timings but always with the same result. I then took away the pcb completely with the same result. I was then willing to give up and thought the drive was beyond salvation. When the clock was 3 in the morning I went to sleep.

Today in the afternoon I gave it another try with another approach. I powered the converter board with two 1.5 batteries in series because I suspected some interference/grounding problem. To my surprise it now worked exactly as the instruction in the first post.

Conclusion: Never ever give up!

Thanks for this thread it made my day!

[BruceWayne]

Duds and dudesses , thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbup

got back 500GB of data

After few weeks i tried to connect handmade tool i actually bought one pre assembled, but it worked and i have all my data backkkkkkkkkk

MOST IMPORTANT THING type commands exactly like its on first page

[ultimatescar]

well so may it be me reviving the thread. i've tried to read all but i got stuck on the first page. i dont got anywhere from endless loop of

Rst 0x20M

(P) SATA Reset

LED:000000CC FAddr:0024CDC9

Rst 0x20M

(P) SATA Reset

and when i block contact of moterhead i get Rst0x20 ? i didnt find solution anywhere care to help guys.. my hd is seagate ST31000333AS and i'm using ttl to rs232 converter.

thankx.

[BruceWayne]

seems to be your case

http://forums.seagate.com/t5/Barracuda-XT-Barracuda-Barracuda/ST31000333AS-LED-000000CC-FAddr-0025DDD9-hyperterminal-issue/td-p/45408

you can google for "(P) SATA Reset loop " and find more info from other users

[ultimatescar]

seems to be your case

http://forums.seagate.com/t5/Barracuda-XT-Barracuda-Barracuda/ST31000333AS-LED-000000CC-FAddr-0025DDD9-hyperterminal-issue/td-p/45408

you can google for "(P) SATA Reset loop " and find more info from other users

I've been trying to follow every piece of information that i could find i've had that one you forwarded as my bookmark from before. rather than googing you could have shown the adresses.. as i've come to almost every site with almost same response which didnt work for me.

but thanx anyway

[jaclaz]

I've been trying to follow every piece of information that i could find i've had that one you forwarded as my bookmark from before. rather than googing you could have shown the adresses.. as i've come to almost every site with almost same response which didnt work for me.

There is probably *something* that you are "doing wrong" .

Please do the following:

1. FORGET (temporarily) whatever you have read on the topic
   
2. ONLY read the Read-me-.first and FGA's:
   
   
   
3. Then try following (to the T) the suggested guide here:
   http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html
   

VERIFY that your RS232 to TTL converter is using the compatible "lower" TTL level, make sure about both power (power to the PCB board) to be "stable" and make sure of proper GROUNDING.

Report.

jaclaz

[ultimatescar]

I've been trying to follow every piece of information that i could find i've had that one you forwarded as my bookmark from before. rather than googing you could have shown the adresses.. as i've come to almost every site with almost same response which didnt work for me.

There is probably *something* that you are "doing wrong" .

Please do the following:

1. FORGET (temporarily) whatever you have read on the topic
   
2. ONLY read the Read-me-.first and FGA's:
   
   
   
3. Then try following (to the T) the suggested guide here:
   http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html
   

VERIFY that your RS232 to TTL converter is using the compatible "lower" TTL level, make sure about both power (power to the PCB board) to be "stable" and make sure of proper GROUNDING.

Report.

jaclaz

I read each and every word.... im still stuck with the look i cant manage to get F3.... could it be my ttl converter's problem?

i'm using this on http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rs232-serial-port-express-card-adapter-blue-black-silver-101467?item=2 or should i make one from nokia ca-42 cable-

[jaclaz]

I read each and every word.... im still stuck with the look i cant manage to get F3.... could it be my ttl converter's problem?

i'm using this on http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rs232-serial-port-express-card-adapter-blue-black-silver-101467?item=2 or should i make one from nokia ca-42 cable-

Sure , but you do not report whether you are actually following what you have read in the given links.

Have you provided grounding?

How EXACTLY are you powering the adapter?

Are you trying insulating the head or motor contacts?

Have you successfully performed a loopback test?

etc., etc.

About the adapter you are using, there is NO specific info on that page about the kind of TTL level that adapter uses. (unless the "working voltage" means TTL level)

The photo *seems* like having a "323x" chip (which should mean that it is of the "right" kind) but cannot say for sure.

But yes, trying another adapter (not necessarily a CA-42 one) is your next step, it is very possible you have a DOA one or however one that is not suited.

About CA-42, please DO READ point #10 of the read-me-first (you know, it is written for a reason ) and FGA #6, then:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0097216/quotes?qt=qt0362962

jaclaz