Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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when i was type Z then come following message

LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569

what is it?

CE is when you didn't do the correct trick with spin motor (check my direct guide).

Actually it didn't go crazy. It try to align 8 times (I counted), and then the head disables and stop.

Actually it goes, I tried that well before RS232 to TTL solution (2 weeks ago or more), and didn't work, so I give up and buyed the adapter instead.

I must confess that drive never was the same after that (and I only did for around 10sec), it does some strange sounds in a while. I trully don't recommend this method, is like the mechanicals parts inside were forced, besides is playing with luck because the heads can always scratch the plates at that crucial moment.

Is too risky only to avoid $20 (or less) bucks.

Edited by puntoMX
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Actually it didn't go crazy. It try to align 8 times (I counted), and then the head disables and stop.

Actually it goes, I tried that well before RS232 to TTL solution (2 weeks ago or more), and didn't work, so I give up and buyed the adapter instead.

I must confess that drive never was the same after that (and I only did for around 10sec), it does some strange sounds in a while. I trully don't recommend this method, is like the mechanicals parts inside were forced, besides is playing with luck because the heads can always scratch the plates at that crucial moment.

Is too risky only to avoid $20 (or less) bucks.

Well since my RS232 to TTL isn't working as should be and I more worried about the data in the old disk I see no problems at all.

And anyway, 2 weeks ago the SD1A firmware won't even exists for our drives! :(

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when i was type Z then come following message

LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569

what is it?

CE is when you didn't do the correct trick with spin motor (check my direct guide).

ok, thanks

ich have attempt a few times, yes it works

i see my data :thumbup

thanks a million too help us.

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I have ordered a RS232 TTL adapter. I will wait for it and try the recommended approach then if all else fails will try the swap PCB/Firmware update approach.

Special Thanks @Gradius2 for posting the tutorial (really awesome!).

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some more details, the bad pcb/good drive is detected in the bios. although it hangs for ages at the bios.

the firmware then boots and when i select option A to update the firmware, it thinks about it for while and then returns the error message

error: specific model not found. st3500320as expected

all help appreciated Vinicus

Strange... If I plug only the PCB without the Disk I got your symptoms. Check if your Frankenstein disk is spinning (even with head beat; my case).

Are you sure that your both ST3500340AS are identical and running SD1A firmware on the working one?

both drives are defo identical, and I updated the good drive with the latest firmware. i then take the bad pcb and put it on the good drive. i then get the symptoms as described above.

i should have also said that the good drive (with good pcb) isnt working 100%. it has another fault but it is working although it is running slow. this is a less common fault with these wastes of money!

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some more details, the bad pcb/good drive is detected in the bios. although it hangs for ages at the bios.

the firmware then boots and when i select option A to update the firmware, it thinks about it for while and then returns the error message

error: specific model not found. st3500320as expected

all help appreciated Vinicus

Strange... If I plug only the PCB without the Disk I got your symptoms. Check if your Frankenstein disk is spinning (even with head beat; my case).

Are you sure that your both ST3500340AS are identical and running SD1A firmware on the working one?

both drives are defo identical, and I updated the good drive with the latest firmware. i then take the bad pcb and put it on the good drive. i then get the symptoms as described above.

i should have also said that the good drive (with good pcb) isnt working 100%. it has another fault but it is working although it is running slow. this is a less common fault with these wastes of money!

If i can add ,

make sure your SD1A cd is good, i made mine with PowerIso and writing at x4, and i made sure all my HD 's in my tower were disconnected and the only one connected was the badpcb/good disk ....you press A in the flash area and wait .... and put badpcb/ to bad disk ....and you will see it resurrected.

i happen to have 3 barracuda st300320AS, it would probably work on any two different models, when you swap the bad pcb to a good disk it is seen in the bios and that gets you half there.....flash the new firmware and your done....remember to flash the other hard disk as well when you swap back.. i used PowerISo to make the firmware cd....

as a note i've been swapping that pcb back and forth and tinkering with it so much with that dang rs232 that it should be broke but it isnt, dont be scared of it use torx6 screwdriver , but dont break it either ....good to have my hd back

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some more details, the bad pcb/good drive is detected in the bios. although it hangs for ages at the bios.

the firmware then boots and when i select option A to update the firmware, it thinks about it for while and then returns the error message

error: specific model not found. st3500320as expected

all help appreciated Vinicus

Strange... If I plug only the PCB without the Disk I got your symptoms. Check if your Frankenstein disk is spinning (even with head beat; my case).

Are you sure that your both ST3500340AS are identical and running SD1A firmware on the working one?

both drives are defo identical, and I updated the good drive with the latest firmware. i then take the bad pcb and put it on the good drive. i then get the symptoms as described above.

i should have also said that the good drive (with good pcb) isnt working 100%. it has another fault but it is working although it is running slow. this is a less common fault with these wastes of money!

If the "good" disk is not really good it may be the cause. Perhaps the timeout time increased and screwed up Firmware update. Don't know if this is correct but can have some sense.

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when i was type Z then come following message

LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569

what is it?

CE is when you didn't do the correct trick with spin motor (check my direct guide).

ok, thanks

ich have attempt a few times, yes it works

i see my data :thumbup

thanks a million too help us.

Sure, no problem. :blushing:

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WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

It's working!

Okay okay!

I don't even needed the s***ty RS232 to any s*** or whatever.

When I saw the desperate of null console I do something insane.

I have 2x ST31000340AS. So I swapped the PCB's and I let the hard disk head beat insanely. Ok...

Fired up the Seagate Firmware Utility to SD1A, and the update was done! Using the old board in the new disk.

Reswapped the PCB and when I boot the machine? ST31000340AS SD1A 1000Gb O.O

Disk is FIXED!!! I can't BELIEVE! Only with Firmware update from Seagate ;)

All my files are back online!

I don't recommend this method, the reading/writing HEAD goes crazy and can kill the platters by scratching them.

Actually it didn't go crazy. It try to align 8 times (I counted), and then the head disables and stop.

[]'s

I counted 11 times for my 500 GB. And it doesn't work for me. The BIOS picks up the HDD (bad PCB on good disk which had been flashed with SD1A), then doesn't continue booting. Maybe it's my BIOS, but skipped the BIOS detection (by plugging in the power after booting from the CDROM doesn't work either, it picks up the HDD when scanning, but after that says ST3500320AS expected, tried a few other variations, all unsuccessful. Now everything is back to previous configuration. I hope I had not permanently bricked the faulty drive. Looks like I'll have to search harder for the RS232 - TTL adapter

By the way Gradius, do i need an RS232 to TTL converter or will a USB to TTL converter do as well? I've seen some of those sold around. Not sure if I can get my hands on one of those. Will any TTL connector do?

Edited by spankerer
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Following Gradius's guide is definately the safest method, even if you have to wait a few extra days and £££'s for the rs232 > ttl adapter.

I've now used it on several drives, with 100% sucess.

The thing is I ordered an rs232 adapter and fixed my drive and others using an old mobile phone data cable while i waited for the adapter to arrive.

2 wires connected from a manually switched Nokia 3210 data cable and Gradius's guide, and my data is back.

bp2411's fixed his drive using the Gradius method with a phone data cable that i sent to him too, I dont even know what phone it was off, I just winged it to find the rx tx lines.

If you cant find a proper rs232>ttl adapter try looking for a phone data cable, there's also a post from someone who used a siemens cable too.

These cable's are readily available on fleebay for a few quid.

If you go the Nokia 3210 route just make sure you make sure it IS manually switched between fbus and mbus cause the auto ones won't work cause they wait for the phone software to switch them to RX TX (fbus mode).

Gradius's guide and a few quid is definately the way to go, What price do you put on getting 100% of your data back.

Anth

Spankerer,

The serial port cable method is more reliable than the Usb cables, but the usb to ttl adapters will work.

The usb ones use software to pretend it is actually a serial port.

A serial port is a serial port.....no other pc port translation's to worry about.

It don't come much simpler than a good old fasioned serial port.

Edited by puntoMX
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Agreed, but I am "Old Skool"....

Spankerer: Where do you live?

Spankerer,

The serial port cable method is more reliable than the Usb cables, but the usb to ttl adapters will work.

The usb ones use software to pretend it is actually a serial port.

A serial port is a serial port.....no other pc port translation's to worry about.

It don't come much simpler than a good old fasioned serial port.

Edited by fatlip
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By the way Gradius, do i need an RS232 to TTL converter or will a USB to TTL converter do as well? I've seen some of those sold around. Not sure if I can get my hands on one of those. Will any TTL connector do?

USB to TTL will do just fine. After all USB is a (universal) serial (bus) interface too.

Use +5V max, recommendable is +3.0~3.3V DC.

I did used an USB > RS232 (for my notebook) adapter to RS232 > TTL adapter.

Works just perfect.

Edited by Gradius2
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Does anyone know if this Schmartboard (P/N710-0001-01) will work as the RS232 TTL adapter ?

http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp?page...lated&id=84

Tried connecting the Schmartboard on two different HD one working and one not working, and I see no output from hyperterminal.

Thanks

Should works.

Device RD: RX

Device TD: TX

Don't forget to press CTRL+Z otherwise you might get nothing.

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