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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

4,864 posts in this topic

Now I am confused. I thought you said you had two 7200.11's to be fixed?

Hi, I have 2 Seagate 7200.11 drives that have gone into what looks like a locked state...

I am feeling a bit of a tit, as theres one thing that is different is my drive is a Seagate Barraccuda 7100.10

Yes, a ten, not an eleven

And yes, as has been very clearly stated in the READ-ME-FIRST, this method is ONLY for the 7200.11 series

It is like you ask people how to loosen a no.11 nut.

Everyone suggests a no.11 spanner.

You e-mail the seller, tell him you have two no.11 nuts to loosen and asks if his no.11 spanner will work.

When it didn't, you asks around and people suggested you might have the wrong spanner.

You then buy the most expensive no.11 spanner you can find.

When the spanner still doesn't work, you tell people it fits loosely, but slips.

Then you suggest it might be because you have a no. 10 nut (which the people told you before won't work with a no. 11 spanner)

In this example there are no no. 10 spanners

Edited by BlouBul
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yes, I guess you're right.

Time to send one of them off to a pro to see what they can do.

The data is still on the platters, so I'm certain someone out there can retrieve it.

I think in my frustration, and excitement at finding this site, I... wellI dunno exactly what I did... 'forgot' 'overlooked' whatever, that I had 10's and not 11's

Easy enough mistake to make I suppose given the panic (despite FGA14 telling me not to)

Easy to panic when you've the prospect fof losing a load of data that you stupidly thought was safe cos you had the drives mirrored!

Makng matters worse, i just noticed that the HD in this pc, is also a 7200.10, as are the 2 others I had setup in another PC (initially as backups)

I've totally lost confidence in them all,

So I'll be backing it all up (when new NAS arrives) and ditching ALL seagate and WD drives. :(

good bye, and thanks for trying to help, even if your tone is a lot condecending.

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yes, I guess you're right.

good bye, and thanks for trying to help, even if your tone is a lot condecending.

Sorry if my tone sounded condescending, that was not intended. I just tried to explain to you why your attempts do not work and answer your question in easy to understand language.

Is this my problem

Or have i broken it myself doing something wrong, or am I just barking up the wrong tree cos I have a different drive

The problem with that drive is (as you have read in that other thread), we do not have a solution for that drive. The only way is to send it for data recovering (which won't be cheap). :(

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yes, I guess you're right.

good bye, and thanks for trying to help, even if your tone is a lot condecending.

Sorry if my tone sounded condescending, that was not intended. I just tried to explain to you why your attempts do not work and answer your question in easy to understand language.

Is this my problem

Or have i broken it myself doing something wrong, or am I just barking up the wrong tree cos I have a different drive

The problem with that drive is (as you have read in that other thread), we do not have a solution for that drive. The only way is to send it for data recovering (which won't be cheap). :(

Ok, I apprecaite you wern't intentionally being condescending.

Of course, my temper is a little frayed, but thats a condition that most of use in at this time - due to KNOWING that we've been idiots for not backing up the data properly, and the worry that precious data (photos) may be lost.

I am now looking for local recovery services. prices being thrown around are between £200 and £1500. I never expected it to be cheap. Such is life I guess, and of course the expenses will only increase after... I will never trust a seagate drive again.

And I've got 5 of the **** things!

Anyway, I did appreciate everyones attempts to help me, even if I didnt appear to in my post above.

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Ok, I apprecaite you wern't intentionally being condescending.

Of course, my temper is a little frayed, but thats a condition that most of use in at this time - due to KNOWING that we've been idiots for not backing up the data properly, and the worry that precious data (photos) may be lost.

I will never trust a seagate drive again.

And I've got 5 of the **** things!

Anyway, I did appreciate everyones attempts to help me, even if I didnt appear to in my post above.

No prob.

Seagate is actually quite reliable (except for this one boo-boo they had), but if your firmware is updated, there shouldn't be any more surprises and it should be as reliable (if not more) than most other brands.

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No prob.

Seagate is actually quite reliable (except for this one boo-boo they had), but if your firmware is updated, there shouldn't be any more surprises and it should be as reliable (if not more) than most other brands.

Yes, I understand, and logic tells me it SHOULD be ok, but once that seed of doubt is planted, you know what I mean.

Its simply not worth the risk.

I'll let you all know if the data recovery tell me anything useful -might help someone someday

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Barracuda 7200.11... do I have this same problem??

I have a internal Barracuda 7200.11...Firmware SD33 .... Manufac: 11/2008.....and for some reason it refuses to start up when connected via SATA at bootup..

Corky :P

im worrying guys that the fact that my firmware is differant (as in not the SD15) ... that the technique will not work? or what do you think?

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im worrying guys that the fact that my firmware is differant (as in not the SD15) ... that the technique will not work? or what do you think?

I think you should stop worrying and just do it ;)

See FGA #2

@stevepud

There are no reports of 7200.11's bricking with updated firmware.

The 7200.10 bricking should be the same (and the reports of them bricking with any firmware are also few and far between). In other words if you update the firmware AND have a backup (which you should have anyway for ANY drive), you should be safe :)

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im worrying guys that the fact that my firmware is differant (as in not the SD15) ... that the technique will not work? or what do you think?

I think you should stop worrying and just do it ;)

See FGA #2

@stevepud

There are no reports of 7200.11's bricking with updated firmware.

The 7200.10 bricking should be the same (and the reports of them bricking with any firmware are also few and far between). In other words if you update the firmware AND have a backup (which you should have anyway for ANY drive), you should be safe :)

I'm trying to take that on board - really I am.

I could always use them as secondary backups. I've already got a couple of Samsung Spinpoints and just waiting for the Netgear Readynas to be delivered.

I could put the 7200.10's inside a spare PC I have and backup to them. If I can find some space to put the PC

Cheers

Steve

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Hi, I'm using the method explained here http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

I'm confused in the powering the adapter part.. the set up is done till "Jumpers connecting power to the serial adapter" image.. the other end of jumper wires have to plugged into where? power supply of my pc or the molex to sata power adapter (item 8)

loopbackjumpers.jpg

In the above image what do i do with the black thing and the +12 V wire??

I hope i made sense.. dunno the detail technical terminology..

Thanks in advance.

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I'm confused in the powering the adapter part.. the set up is done till "Jumpers connecting power to the serial adapter" image.. the other end of jumper wires have to plugged into where? power supply of my pc or the molex to sata power adapter (item 8)

Not quite sure what you are asking :unsure: Do you mean if you do not have the extra power feed?

Note: If you're really having problems finding this adapter, a molex-to-SATA adapter without the extra power feed should be incredibly easy to locate. With that configuration, you'll have to insert a pair of male jumper wires into the back of the molex end (in the proper black and red wire sections) and try to get a solid connection. It won't be pretty but it will work. Just make sure the connection won't come loose in mid-operation. If you're unsure about it, enlist a tech-savvy friend but don't screw around with power if you're unclear about what you're doing. Please. I'm begging you.

In the above image what do i do with the black thing and the +12 V wire??

I hope i made sense.. dunno the detail technical terminology..

Well , the black thing is the SATA Power that goes to the HDD you want to unbrick and the +12V wire in the molex adapter should be connected to a molex adapter from your PC. The 12V wire are just in the unfortunate position to be group with the rest in the connector and should NOT be used for anything else.

The line directly underneath your photo says:

Now plug an empty molex power connector from your power supply into the corresponding connector on the power adapter cable (the large white end with two black, one red, and one yellow wire in the picture above). These ends are "keyed" in a rough "D" shape so that they may only be plugged in the right way round.

Also see the next photo in the guide where it shows "the black thing" connected to the hdd.

Also see Read-me-First #11

Edited by BlouBul
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Thanks for the reply..

So i plugged white thing to my pc's power supply molex.. did a loop back test and the results were positive..

Next, thought of shutting down the pc, so as to connect the hard disc but somehow the pc didn't shutdown, instead it restarted..

Further, attached the hard disc with the sata power cable and other things as mentioned in the guide.. pressed Ctrl and Z but nothin happened.. interchanged the Rx and Tx jumper wires, still nothin happened..

Next, unplugged everything, tried to do a loopback test again but this time there's no response..

What went wrong?

Thanks again.

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So i plugged white thing to my pc's power supply molex.. did a loop back test and the results were positive..

That is good :thumbup

Next, thought of shutting down the pc, so as to connect the hard disc but somehow the pc didn't shutdown, instead it restarted..

Further, attached the hard disc with the sata power cable and other things as mentioned in the guide.. pressed Ctrl and Z but nothin happened.. interchanged the Rx and Tx jumper wires, still nothin happened..

Next, unplugged everything, tried to do a loopback test again but this time there's no response..

What went wrong?

Not sure :unsure:

Check all connections again (maybe something came loose) The loopback must work again before you try to unbrick the drive).

It is not necessary to power down the computer to connect the SATA power to the HDD, just do it carefully.

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So i plugged white thing to my pc's power supply molex.. did a loop back test and the results were positive..

That is good :thumbup

Next, thought of shutting down the pc, so as to connect the hard disc but somehow the pc didn't shutdown, instead it restarted..

Further, attached the hard disc with the sata power cable and other things as mentioned in the guide.. pressed Ctrl and Z but nothin happened.. interchanged the Rx and Tx jumper wires, still nothin happened..

Next, unplugged everything, tried to do a loopback test again but this time there's no response..

What went wrong?

Not sure :unsure:

Check all connections again (maybe something came loose) The loopback must work again before you try to unbrick the drive).

It is not necessary to power down the computer to connect the SATA power to the HDD, just do it carefully.

I did check all the connections but somehow the loopback doesn't work.. :( :( This is getting frustrating now..

Well, just to be sure.. restarting would not have any effect on the RS 232 Adaptor.. i mean its not short circuited or something?

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Well, just to be sure.. restarting would not have any effect on the RS 232 Adaptor.. i mean its not short circuited or something?

Yes, unfortunately it MAY happen. :(

It is a RARE condition, but it may happen with a re-start (as opposed to switch off) in certain conditions. :ph34r:

Compare with the issue detailed here:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/126

http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J16/all

jaclaz

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Well, just to be sure.. restarting would not have any effect on the RS 232 Adaptor.. i mean its not short circuited or something?

Yes, unfortunately it MAY happen. :(

It is a RARE condition, but it may happen with a re-start (as opposed to switch off) in certain conditions. :ph34r:

Compare with the issue detailed here:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/126

http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J16/all

jaclaz

Well, i'l proly try the entire thing again tomo.. will post back on success..

if the adapter is dead.. my bad luck.. got it all the way from Pololu US since its not available anywhere here.. **** those shipping costs again :(

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if the adapter is dead.. my bad luck.. got it all the way from Pololu US since its not available anywhere here.. **** those shipping costs again :(

You do know you do not necessarily need that exact converter. Lots of other (and closer ones to where you live) will also work (even Nokia data cables). SeeRead-Me-First #11

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Well, i'l proly try the entire thing again tomo.. will post back on success..

if the adapter is dead.. my bad luck.. got it all the way from Pololu US since its not available anywhere here.. **** those shipping costs again :(

Well, with all due respect :), if you got it from pololu how come you didn't read the NOTE:

Note: We have heard of several instances of customers destroying these adapters when using them to recover bricked hard drives. This device is susceptible to damage from destructive LC voltage spikes that can arise when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires, so we recommend placing a large electrolytic cap (at least 100 uF) across VCC and GND very close to the board in that kind of application.

it's quite visible. :unsure:

WHERE are you based?

India?

Get this:

http://www.embeddedmarket.com/products/USB-to-TTL-Converter-Module/

(just an example)

Another one:

http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=302

An USB to TTL one:

http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=304

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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Well, i'l proly try the entire thing again tomo.. will post back on success..

if the adapter is dead.. my bad luck.. got it all the way from Pololu US since its not available anywhere here.. **** those shipping costs again :(

Well, with all due respect :), if you got it from pololu how come you didn't read the NOTE:

Note: We have heard of several instances of customers destroying these adapters when using them to recover bricked hard drives. This device is susceptible to damage from destructive LC voltage spikes that can arise when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires, so we recommend placing a large electrolytic cap (at least 100 uF) across VCC and GND very close to the board in that kind of application.

it's quite visible. :unsure:

Point noted.. and yes i didn't read the note on Pololu's website.. I was under the impression that LC voltage spike phenomenon could occur only when using long jumper wires and the jumper wires I was using were the same as written in the guide.. nevertheless that is the cost of experience..

Thanks for the links.. I can surely buy the above but using them without a guide isn't too easy.. and if i use a USB to TTL converter, the problem of voltage spike would still occur or not?

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I can surely buy the above but using them without a guide isn't too easy.. and if i use a USB to TTL converter, the problem of voltage spike would still occur or not?

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

I don't think you will get a Voltage problem with the serial to TTL converter if you connect it after your computer is booted up and with USB to TTL I haven't heard about similar problems :)

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Actually the issue is with the TOTAL length of the power leads :

when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires

basically it's the TOTAL length from the power supply to that actual board that may (in some particular cases and ONLY with "bad" power supplies that send the spikes) create a voltage peak when switched on (capacitor effect).

This SHOULD NEVER happen (i.e. no way it can happen :unsure:) if you power the PC BEFORE and later connect the Molex.

There is NO possible switch bounce WITHOUT a switch ;) (unless of course you have delirium tremens :ph34r:)

It WON'T happen if you use a battery to power the adapter.

You may want to do it behind the green glass door :whistle:

where there are NO switch bounce nor voltage peaks, and lots of TTL-converters...(but NO USB :()

The USB to TTL seems to me the best choice of the three mentioned as it is ALREADY powered by the USB BUS and you need not to fiddle with the power supply, you just insert the device in a USB port.

jaclaz

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Actually the issue is with the TOTAL length of the power leads :

when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires

basically it's the TOTAL length from the power supply to that actual board that may (in some particular cases and ONLY with "bad" power supplies that send the spikes) create a voltage peak when switched on (capacitor effect).

I am using a Corsair VX450W SMPS with my PC.. I doubt with this SMPS there would be a power spike issue..

This SHOULD NEVER happen (i.e. no way it can happen :unsure:) if you power the PC BEFORE and later connect the Molex.

There is NO possible switch bounce WITHOUT a switch ;) (unless of course you have delirium tremens :ph34r:)

It WON'T happen if you use a battery to power the adapter.

You may want to do it behind the green glass door :whistle:

where there are NO switch bounce nor voltage peaks, and lots of TTL-converters...(but NO USB :()

The USB to TTL seems to me the best choice of the three mentioned as it is ALREADY powered by the USB BUS and you need not to fiddle with the power supply, you just insert the device in a USB port.

jaclaz

So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

Thanks again :)

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So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

Thanks again :)

Yes, that one will work (as jaclaz said) For guide see below:

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

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Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

Ok.. do i get a USB cable along with the converter? If yes, i will plug one end of the USB in my pc and another one to the converter.. right?

Next, what do i do with the Rx., Tx, GND Pins.. attach jumper wires to them? one end connected to the converter and the other end with the bricked hard drive?

Thanks.

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Ok.. do i get a USB cable along with the converter? If yes, i will plug one end of the USB in my pc and another one to the converter.. right?

Next, what do i do with the Rx., Tx, GND Pins.. attach jumper wires to them? one end connected to the converter and the other end with the bricked hard drive?

Thanks.

Not sure if a USB cable is included (otherwise just use one from a printer or buy one) Rest of questions Yes :yes: , Yes :yes: and Yes :yes:

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