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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

4,858 posts in this topic

Bought a USB to TTL adapter locally... ...it saved my precious data.

Your USB-to-TTL adapter is apparently one of the few USB-adapters which works at the correct 3.3 V level (and _not_ 5 V).

Could you tell us what's the make of the USB-to-TTL adapter, chip No, looks or brand name?

my PL2303 has the possibility to switch +3,3V or +5V and it works like a sharm. You just need to set up a jumper.

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Bought a USB to TTL adapter locally... ...it saved my precious data.

Your USB-to-TTL adapter is apparently one of the few USB-adapters which works at the correct 3.3 V level (and _not_ 5 V).

Could you tell us what's the make of the USB-to-TTL adapter, chip No, looks or brand name?

It has two jumpers for switching internal voltages, just like smadurlo said for his. It was already set for 3.3V, so I didn't have to set it manually. The adapter itself seems to be made locally by the store, so I doubt it will help you because I don't think they ship internationally.

Still, here is the link where I bought it: LINK

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It has two jumpers for switching internal voltages, just like smadurlo said for his. It was already set for 3.3V, so I didn't have to set it manually. The adapter itself seems to be made locally by the store, so I doubt it will help you because I don't think they ship internationally.

Still, here is the link where I bought it: LINK

Very nice. :)

Since it includes the actual schematics.

It uses the "standard" FT232RL" chip by FTDI:

http://www.ftdichip.com/

It is powered fron the USB +5V BUT you have it wrong. :ph34r:

Luckily for you :) the adapter uses the lower (right for this use :thumbup ) TTL logic level range, but the jumpers ONLY changes the VccIO level (NOT the TTL signal level).

That is the voltage level that is output on the +EXT pin and that can be used to power a TTL device, alternatively at 3.3V or at 5 V.

jaclaz

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Thank all whom have posted their input on my issue. I would like to clarify my issue, as some said my last post didnt make sense :(

First off, this is what i am using:

RS232/TTL adapter I ordered off ALLDAV as recommended by Gradius2.

Computer Power Supply to provide the 3.3v to my TTL adapter. (I took apart the SATA plug and Soldered ground and 3.3v directly to TTL adapter. Also, I used a multimter to verify correct voltage is going to the TTL adapter)

A USB to RS232 adapter to plug the RS232/TTL adapter to my laptop's USB port.

Soldered the two wires off the TTL adapter's TX/RX output pins to plug into the HDD.

A generic Hyperterminal program as my laptop is running Windows 7.

Ok, I have no issue with accessing HT and connecting to TTL adapter, but when I do loopback test I get characters in box, even if TX and RX aren't looped to eachther. Is this normal?

So next, I plugged the TX off the TTL adapter to the RX of the HDD and vice versa. When I power everything up and hit Ctrl+Z, all I get is a black arrow? I have tried everything! I am so frustrated :(

Questions I have:

1st: Does the HDD ground pin need to be grounded?

2nd: Does the HDD need its own power from the computers PS?

3rd: has anyone used a RS232 to USB adapter for their TTL adapter, so they can use computer USB to connect to the TTL adapter? If so, has anyone had any issues?

Any help would be greatly appreciated :) I am so frustrated by this issue!!!

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Ok, DISREGARD my last post!!!

OK, I did the llopback test. Here are my results:

everything connects fine, but when I type H E L L O, for example, i will sometimes get a bunch of weird characters, and sometimes the correct letter.

My guess is that, I'm not getting proper ground somewhere. I am connected to the a adhoc computer PS and my TTL adapter is wired to a taken apart SATA power cables, GND wire (black) and 3.3V wire (orange).

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just fixed my hdd using the instuctions and a chopped up ca-42 cable can' t thank you all enough. Now to back it up to my server

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Ok, DISREGARD my last post!!!

OK, I did the llopback test. Here are my results:

everything connects fine, but when I type H E L L O, for example, i will sometimes get a bunch of weird characters, and sometimes the correct letter.

My guess is that, I'm not getting proper ground somewhere. I am connected to the a adhoc computer PS and my TTL adapter is wired to a taken apart SATA power cables, GND wire (black) and 3.3V wire (orange).

Why don't you READ (evidently for the first time) the READ-ME-FIRST and the FGA, particularly the part about GROUNDing?

This may also help you (please follow the "conversation" with Predtek starting from here):

I really cannot understand why it is so difficult to get this kind of info acknowledged, I am at a loss to understand what could be done to give it more evidence.... :unsure:

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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Thanks jaclaz for all your help. I soldered new wires onto my adapter, and problem solved :rolleyes:

I suppose the wires were touching somewhere that I couldn't see.

I know it's tough dealing with noobies sometimes :)

Thanks again!

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Thanks jaclaz for all your help. I soldered new wires onto my adapter, and problem solved :rolleyes:

Yet another happy bunny :thumbup:

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10

I suppose the wires were touching somewhere that I couldn't see.

I know it's tough dealing with noobies sometimes :)

Thanks again!

No prob, that's why we are here (to try and help newbies) among other things. :) Actually the final goal is to make them step away from their n00b status ;).

jaclaz

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can this cable help to make life easyier?

ttl to usb cable

I'm guessing, but I think it may work as it is 3.3 V output. But still, remember that different adapters may have different wave forms on their signals, so nothing is sure. Beware that some adapters can be duds as handling during freight can damage the electronics.

One piece of advice. The output jumper ends are female, which is good, but they are still to big for the HD, and you don't want to directly sandpaper them down in case you grind too much. Instead buy some male-to-male and some female-to-female jumpers (short cables to keep voltage spikes down) and put at the ends of your adapter output. Then you can sandpaper the female-to-female cable end. If you grind too much just pick another female-to-female jumper.

If you already have some nice pins to use, you could skip buying the male-to-male jumpers, or try finding a kit locally with a mix of male and female jumper cables.

Edited by Huygens
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I'm guessing, but I think it may work as it is 3.3 V output. But still, remember that different adapters may have different wave forms on their signals, so nothing is sure. Beware that some adapters can be duds as handling during freight can damage the electronics.

With all due respect :), the probabilities that a cable like that get damaged during freight could be IMHO feeded to the Heart of Gold Improbability Drive ;) and let it travel for a good 2/3 of the known universe :w00t: .

It is also the first time in my life I hear about different wave forms on serial/ttl lines. :unsure:

Have you ever seen anything different from a standard (almost) square wave form on any such line?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_signal

Sure transitions may be a little steeper or flatter, but no chip intended for sending this kind of signals ever emitted (to my knowledge) a different waveform, and standards allow for more than reasonable tolerance on peaks.

jaclaz

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Hello everyone and thank you all involved in this excellent guide

After some time i found the courage to attempt to fix my 750Gb Seagate Barraccuda 7200.11. I determined that i had the BSY error, since my drive wouldn't show up at BIOS.

Following Gradius direct guide here everything went smoothly until this part after tightening the screw of the PCB

Then press CTRL+Z again:

F3 2>U

Instead of getting the spin up result i got LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

I restarted the procedure but now in step 3 when i type

F3 2>Z
instead of getting the spin down result as it happened the 1st time i get LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569

So what went wrong? I tried restarting the procedure multiple times but i always get the LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569 at the same step.

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Hello everyone and thank you all involved in this excellent guide

After some time i found the courage to attempt to fix my 750Gb Seagate Barraccuda 7200.11.

Random ideas :w00t: :

Is it by any chance an ES.2 drive?

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?client=opera&rls=it&oe=utf-8&hl=it&q=cache:iEQnPXk5Ij8J:http://www.forum.salvationdata.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=900+LED%3A000000CE+FAddr%3A00280569&ct=clnk

Did you try the Heads contacts OR the Motor ones?

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

(Note: Some guides on the web have suggested insulating the *other* set of contacts (the "head" contacts) you see in the lower left of the above photo to the right. I tried this originally and it didn't work for me but obviously others have had some success with it. In *my* case, with 1TB model drives, I can assure you that insulating the slightly easier to access motor contacts worked where the head contacts method didn't. I suspect the specific model of your drive will account for the varying levels of the results so if one way doesn't work for you, think about trying the other. You'll know to look here if the HyperTerminal session won't allow you to spin down the drive and continues to give you the BSY error in reply - "LED:01...blah blah blah". If you're allowed to spin down the drive, then this bit isn't your issue.)

jaclaz

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Hard drive is now fixed and operational :D

To fix the LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569 error i got i just waited about 30 secs before pressing enter after typing Z in step 3:

F3 2>Z

As for what went wrong in the first place: After screwing the PCB back and attempting this step

Then press CTRL+Z again:

F3 2>U

i noticed that after pressing CTRL+Z hyperterminal returned to the F3 T prompt not the F3 2 one. I don't know if that is what is supposed to happen, since i' m a total newbie in using hyperterminal, but the direct guide here isn't very clear on that.

So i just typed /2 again and that took me to the F3 2 prompt. After that i followed the rest of the instructions.

Did you try the Heads contacts OR the Motor ones?

I used the motor contacts method. I just removed the screw on the motor contacts and isolated them using a small paper card.

The cable i used was this one, in case anyone in the EU can't find a working cable. Installed and worked perfectly under windows 7.

I also used a small breadboard and some male-male and female-female jumpers to connect everything together. I only had to remove the small plastic bit on the end of the female-female jumpers because it wouldn't fit inside the small space where the hard drive sata pins are. I then covered the metal bits with some plastic tape for insulation.

Once again thanks everyone involved in making this thread and this guide! :thumbup

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Just checking to see if there are updates to the Unknown Diag Cmd Failure 12CC4 issue.

Like a handful of others in this thread I receive that message after executing the 'N1' command. I also receive it if I '/C' and then 'Q' to get the list of commands.

And, like the others with the same issue, I've followed the instructions explicitly and verified that it is SD15 firmware. I have two of the 1Gig models and both were purchased from Best Buy and were boxed for retail. However, the label on the drives say manufactured by Seagate for OEM distribution. Hmmm....

Thanks in advance.

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I read to send the M0,2,2,,,,,22 cmd before N1 in this case to solve the problem.

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I read to send the M0,2,2,,,,,22 cmd before N1 in this case to solve the problem.

Just tried the suggestion. Prompt never returned. Waiting just short of an hour now for it to finish. Its ok though. I have 2 1 Gig drives and they have the same exact contents. I mirror them then break the mirror after backups. So if I super-brick one of them there is still the other.

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Another satified customer!!! Thank you to everyone who's posted information concerning this issue. It took three days working roughly 1.5 hours per day to fix. Yes a little slow but well worth the results. My biggest problem was getting the CA-42 wires hooked up right. There seems to be a bunch of CA-42 cables out there. See below for my setup. Once the wires were hooked up correctly the actual hyperterminal process was a snap.

My CA-42 steup. 5-wires (no battery(ies) needed)

Blue and yellow to HDD GND

Red to HDD RX

White to HDD TX

Black (not used)

Thanks again everyone. You ROCK!!!

v/r

ChevySS10424

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Another satified customer!!! Thank you to everyone who's posted information concerning this issue.

Glad you managed to fix it thumbup.gif, BUT...

My biggest problem was getting the CA-42 wires hooked up right. There seems to be a bunch of CA-42 cables out there. See below for my setup. Once the wires were hooked up correctly the actual hyperterminal process was a snap.

You could have saved yourself a lot of trouble if you read the instructions first.whistling.gif The colours of the wires are NOT important as it differ between manufacturers/ days of manufacturing and whatever colour was available during manufacturingph34r.gif. An easy way to identify them is given in the link in FGA #6. http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/147532-fga-for-the-seagate-720011-drives/page__pid__945647#entry945647 and http://buffalo.nas-central.org/wiki/Use_a_Nokia_Serial_Cable_on_an_ARM9_Linkstation

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I'm on the final bit(F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22) and its been going for over 2 hours now.

The tutorial said up to 10 mins and others said it took about 1 hour.

I have the 1TB Seagate Hard drive, so is it normal for it to take this long?

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I'm on the final bit(F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22) and its been going for over 2 hours now.

The tutorial said up to 10 mins and others said it took about 1 hour.

I have the 1TB Seagate Hard drive, so is it normal for it to take this long?

Wait a further 35 minutes, then unpower the thingy, test if by any chance it is now unbricked, if not re-do from start.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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