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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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swatbee    0
Greetings fellow Seagate drive victims :hello:

I had a 7200.11 die on me last Monday and managed to get it un-bricked (from BSY state) last night, after following the excellent help and advice on this forum. IMHO, someone better have gotten fired from Seagate for this FUBAR of a situation. Allowing a bug like this to ship in millions of drives worldwide is absolutely unacceptable.

Anyways, for what it's worth, I figured I'd detail what I did to get my drive working again. The drive in question shipped with a Dell XPS 730x system that I bought in January. Wonderful machine, zero problems whatsoever until one morning I started it up and received a "insert boot media or specify boot media location" BIOS message. Thank the gods I had a backup drive. There's actually a somewhat devastating bug in Windows XP (haven't looked for it in Vista) where data stores created by the Files and Settings Transfer wizard can become easily corrupted, thus trapping the data inside them. I learned my data-loss lesson and to this date never run without AT LEAST one backup at any given time.

In a panic, I ordered a worked for him: FTDI TTL-232R-3V3 USB Cable (USB on one end, 6 colored wires on the other end). After hours of tinkering with it with no success, I sped off to a local electronics store and bought a USB-->Serial cable and a Serial-->TTY adapter. Fast forward a couple of days and several more hours of messing with it, and the only thing I managed to do was somehow cause a hard reset in my power supply, scaring the hell out of me.

I was at a loss. So I started reading through this entire thread again, looking for anything obvious I missed. On page 35, I came across the following post from AlexLilic:

WOOHOOO!! I just successfully unbricked my drive by following the instructions from this thread. All of my data is accessible again (and now safely copied to a new drive).

Let me just extend a heartfelt "thanks" to the people who contributed to this happy day!!!! Over the past months I have read posts from Gustek, Fatlip, Gradius, Aviko (and of course others). In actual fact I am really glad for the timing of my fault - because it let me share this journey with them by reading their posts as the solution unfolded.

The funny thing is that if the DR companies had just been transparent about what they do, and charged a little less for this fix, I would have used them weeks ago. I called 2 local DR companies and asked "how much *IF* it turns out to be the well known 7200.11 SD15 BSY error?". If they had been transparent and said "Quick fix - but we still need 300 Euros to cover our overhead" I would have said "fine" and given them the disk. Instead they they basically said "How much is your data worth so that I know how much to charge you?" (i.e. quoted 600-900 Euros). As a result they didn't get my business, and I suspect they won't get many others. When I finally got a working TTL adapter (thanks Alexx86) the solution indeed took 3 minutes.

Because I had many difficulties with my first adapter - I have included my tips here:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 - Buy an adapter which you KNOW works and is EASY! (Easier == less steps == less risk)

The first adapter I purchased was a USB Signal to RS232 TTL UART

Despite a LOT of effort, I could NOT get a terminal session established with the drive. I tried all suggestions (grounding, different power supplies, with and without PCB connection, etc.)

Shorting TXD and RXD (loopback test) worked so I knew the UART was not faulty - but connecting to the Seagate PCB gave nothing other than the "Arrow" in Hyperterminal. A further problem occurred because i didn't realise that for my chip, VCC on the TTL output was connected to 5v, so when I connected my 3v batteries to it they were "charged" by the UART chip and literally popped whilst connected to the drive (at this point I was sure it was game over :-))

2 - Keep it Simple

I decided to try one last time with a known adapter. I contacted a local poster in this thread (alexx86) who confirmed for me that this part number had worked for him: FTDI TTL-232R-3V3 USB Cable

9e56abd0-acf8-11dd-b9b1-005056b95dfd.jpg

This adapter rocked - it was soooo easy by comparison:

- No guesswork. Good documentation. Good drivers.

- It is USB, so no RS232 port required.

- It came with drivers for XP, Vista, etc. - but I didn't need them (just "plug and play" on my machine)

- There was no need for additional battery power supply. The cable includes a 3.3v VCC already.

3 - Connecting it (these steps thanks to Alexx86)

Connect a Standard SATA power cable to the drive, and then connect the USB<->TTL cable as described below. Note that there was no need to ground between the USB<->TTL cable and the SATA cable (i.e. they are seperate). I did however connect 3 USB<->TTL wires to the drive PCB (3rd one being GND) and I used the same PC to provide both SATA power and USB<->TTL cable).

This USB<->TTL cable has 6 wires. Only 3 are connected to the Seagate PCB. Of the remaining 3 wires, 2 are joined together and the final one is unused.

USB<->TLL Cable Connections:

- Orange (TXD) - Connected to 1st terminal pin on PCB (closest pin to SATA adapter)

- Yellow (RXD) - Connected to 2nd terminal pin on PCB (2nd closest pin to SATA adapter)

- Black (GND) - Connected to 3rd terminal pin on PCB (3rd closest pin to SATA adapter).

- Brown (CTS) and Green (RTS) are tied to each other and nothing else (for flow control). I would have thought this was unnecessary - but I did it to be sure.

- Red Wire (VCC) is not used.

4 - Fix your drive

Open Hypterm and Ctrl-Z to confirm you have connection. Then follow the commands from Gradius/Aviko. I had trouble deciding whether to follow Gradius or Aviko's solution. I felt loyal to Gradius, and found his instructions more readable - but some of Aviko's advice was also clearly valuable.

In the end I mixed a little. I used 2 pieces of paper card to isolate both the Motor connector (3 pin connection) and HDMA contacts (IC-style connection) and started with Gradius' approach. As I have a 500gb Seagate however, I couldn't resist trying the F712 commands that Aviko mentioned which are only apply to my drive (see post #610). Therefore I ended up not using the Glist Erase command ("F3 T>i4,1,22 (enter)").

My summary is that Aviko's advice is clearly knowledgable and he has added additional value to Gradius' excellent solution thread (note that I did not say it was Gradius solution - but it IS Gradius' thread, so please don't point out that someone else created the solution first). Without Gradius however, most of us would not have our data - me included!

Gradius and Aviko - thankyou BOTH so VERY much!!!!

Within MINUTES, I was at that magical F3 prompt in HyperTerminal, and within a few more minutes my drive was fully functional again! In my experience, using the direct USB-->TTY cable was a lot simpler than assembling a connector from a serial cable (USB-->Serial adapter for many people probably, as few computers these days have a serial port on the mobo). To any and all who come across this thread and this post, I would highly recommend the USB-->TTY cable. I purchased the jumper wires from the first post of this thread for $5, and the cable for $20. Yes, it's more money than the other solution, but I personally am willing to spend a few extra bucks if it means less headache and getting my drive back and working.

I'd like to give my thanks to all the people who invested so much time and effort into this solution. I'm going to try to get the word out to everyone I know about the 7200.11 drives, hopefully I'll be able to prevent more people having to go through this whole ordeal.

As an amusing fact, I live about 5 miles from Seagate's customer service facility in Scotts Valley, California, USA (listed as so on their support website). Getting this drive fixed means I don't have to go up there with eggs and TP... :whistle:

Hello everybody,

I've just purchased the TTL-232R-3V3 Cable to fix the BSY problems that both of my seagate 1TB drives were having. I manage to get the F3 T> prompt in the hyperterminal. I am also able to key in the command /2 which changed the prompt to F3 2>. However, I am not able to enter command Z.Whenever i enter Z, I would encounter this error: LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569. Both of my drives exhibited the same problems. I have totally detached the PCB from the harddrive. Does anybody know what went wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Hello everybody,

I've just purchased the TTL-232R-3V3 Cable to fix the BSY problems that both of my seagate 1TB drives were having. I manage to get the F3 T> prompt in the hyperterminal. I am also able to key in the command /2 which changed the prompt to F3 2>. However, I am not able to enter command Z.Whenever i enter Z, I would encounter this error: LED:000000CE FAddr:00280569. Both of my drives exhibited the same problems. I have totally detached the PCB from the harddrive. Does anybody know what went wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I also had the option to purchase the TTL-232R-3V3 adapter cable (from ELFA) manufactured by FTDI. But I chose to stick to the RS232 to TTL adapter "module" (from Electrokit) as described in this guide. It just happened to be the same brand (Sparkfun Electronics) as the one Gradius was using. But I have read that other users, in particular those from Sweden (Alexx among others), who used exactly the same adapter cable as you are using have managed to recover their HDD from the BSY state once they figured out how to wire it and set everything up. So, as far as the TTL adapter is concerned, your cable should work flawlessly, so there's no problem there.

However, I am not able to enter command Z - Are you saying that you are not able to type in the Z command in the terminal software? Or are you not able to send the Z command to your HDD?

Did you try to wait 30-60 seconds before typing or sending the Z command to the HDD? I remember that Aviko said to TechnoFreak to let 30-60 pass at this point. TechnoFreak was also having the same or similar error as you have. For details, see the link to post # 458 in the list above in my previous post.

You have two 1 TB drives with the BSY error?

Please try to follow the instructions. You are NOT supposed to remove the PCB completely. For example, according to Aviko, some newer HDD FW's require that the motor contacts of the HDD are connected or it will not allow you to enter the terminal. That's why Aviko pointed out that it's better to insulate the MHA contacts (20 pin) then the motor contacts (3 pin) as Gradius suggested. I think you are only supposed to remove the PCB completely if you're having trouble entering the terminal. If you are using Gradius' method to recover your HDD, then you are supposed to place an insulating material between the PCB and the HDA at the 3 pin contacts for the motor. If you are following Aviko's (originally Okzo's aka Yura's) method, then you are supposed to place an insulating material between the PCB and the HDA at the 20 pin contacts for the MHA (manetic heads assembly). The insulating material can be anything non-conductive, but plastics is not to be preferred since they can be statically charged so you should use some thick peace of paper (card stock or similar).

I just came to think that you may actually have been confused with the whole HDD preparation process. I'll explain it to you in short. Gradius' recovery method (the OP who posted the first post in this thread) suggests ONLY removing one or two Torx screws near the 3 pin contacts for the motor, and then just sliding some insulating material there in between. However, I think that the original source for using this whole Barracuda 7200.11 recovery procedure said that you should REMOVE the PCB completely, and then place an insulator on the MHA contacts and then REPLACE the PCB. And that's the method (the Okzo's a.k.a Yura's method) that Aviko is referring to in this thread.

So in other words, if you are removing the PCB, you are doing it in order to insulate the 20-pin MHA contacts from the HDA and then replacing it back with one or two screws slightly loose (to prevent contact). Gradius' method is a less intrusive one and I think he's aim with it was that he's whole HDD recovery process would be more easy to do even for those who are intimidated by removing a PCB or don't even know what it is. So, originally (Okzo's a.k.a Yura's method) you were actually supposed to remove the PCB, place an insulator, and replace the PCB back on the HDA with one or two screws loose. And then when you get the prompt in terminal, you were supposed to remove the insulator and fasten the screws.

Do I have to remind you to use upper-case letter Z, and not lower-case z? I read before how some user used the small (lower-case) letter z instead of the big Z. Thankfully nothing happened because the HDD didn't react to it. But be aware of this!

Also, you may want to refer to Brad Garcia's description in his own guide titled Fixing a Seagate 7200.11 Hard Drive at Google Sites, who is using Aviko's (originally Okzo's a.k.a Yura's) method.

Here is a check-list of things you have to pay attention to.

  1. The TTL-232R-3V3 adapter cable by FTDI is just as good as the RS232 to TTL adapter "module" by Sparkfun Electronics.
  2. Try to wait 30-60 seconds before typing or sending the Z command to the HDD.
  3. Make sure you are typing in the upper-case letter Z, not the lower-case z.
  4. If you're afraid, then don't remove the PCB completely. In this case use Gradius' method of loosening one or two screw near the 3-pin motor contacts and slide in an insulating material in that area (make sure you slide it until you feel it hits an obstacle which is the sponge beneath the PCB).
  5. If you're not intimidated by removing the PCB completely, as you already have done this, make sure to place it back on once you have placed an insulating material on the 20-pin MHA contacts. The PCB needs to have connection with the 3-pin motor contacts! So, you either place the insulator on the 20-pin MHA contacts (involves removing AND replacing the PCB with motor contacts connected) OR you insulate the 3-pin motor contacts and leave the 20-pin MHA contacts connected. You have to chose only one method, so I don't think disconnecting them both by removing the PCB completely and powering it on that way will ever work.

Hope that will help.

Edited by ElectroGeeza

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Honkers    0
Also, you may want to refer to Brad Garcia's description in his own guide titled Fixing a Seagate 7200.11 Hard Drive at Google Sites, who is using Aviko's (originally Okzo's a.k.a Yura's) method.

Just my 2c - I've read a few posts that have pointed out that that Brad's guide is missing a crucial step. In his guide he writes:

**********

And do a S.M.A.R.T. erase (create S.M.A.R.T. sector):

F3 1>N1 (enter)

Finally, do partition regeneration:

F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (enter)

***********

According to Gradiss' post, you MUST turn off the hard drive prior to the partition regeneration step and that this is a crucial step.

For me, I followed Gradius' guide and unbricked my drive....if I'm wrong in this, please feel free to jump in and correct me.

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santropez    0

It seems that all of the photos from Gratis have been moved or taken down. Can these be re-posted? I need to know which pins on the back of the drive are TX and RX.

Thanks

Chris

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Honkers    0
It seems that all of the photos from Gratis have been moved or taken down. Can these be re-posted? I need to know which pins on the back of the drive are TX and RX.

Thanks

Chris

Chris - You can have a look at Brad's site where he has a photo of the pins:

http://sites.google.com/site/seagatefix/

Just keep in mind you should use Gradius' instructions, not Brad's as per my previous post, Brad doesn't have the step of restarting the HDD prior to the partition regeneration. Good luck with the fix!

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7200.11    0

Hi All,

Same issue as everyone here, 7200.11 drive not showing up in BIOS, and this is the second time, with a second drive. but i FIXED both of them without the RS232 fix with hyper terminal and here is how.

I swapped the PCB's from each drive to the other, the drives then instead of NOT showing up in BIOS display with 0MB , I then shutdown, swapped back the PCBS between the discs booted up to the Seagate Firmware flash CD and flashed both their firmware, now they work with no issues and all the data has now been backed up externally.

So if you are lucky enough to have another 7200.11 drive hanging about, switch over the PCB, power on and you will see it in bios as 0MB. Power off, switch PCB back and use the seagate Firmware boot disc to flash the drive.

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Hi all! :hello:

I just dropped in to report that I have successfully recovered my Barracuda from BSY state! B) I recovered it on monday (2009-04-20) at about 16:00 CET, and late at night at about 01:00 CET I successfully upgraded the FW on it as well. The operation was successful and the patient survived! :) It was a peace of cake! The only problem I had was that the TX/RX wires were flipped. That's mostly because different people say different things, some say that TX is to the right of RX and next to the SATA port, some say it's the opposite. But that really depends on the point of view. That's why some users call it "UART dyslexia", because there is a standard procedure in electronics which dictates how you should read out the marking on devices, and some people, specially the amateurs don't keep to it. Here is a funny quote that user called MotiveForce wrote as comment on the TTL to RS232 adapter from Sparkfun Electronics at their Website.

Before purchasing this part you need to know if you have a condition called UART dyslexia. This is a neurological disorder that will render you incapable of properly wireing this device no matter how my times you triple check the the wiring. I have this disorder and I have only found three possible solutions:

1) Find someone else without UART dyslexia to wire it up for you

2) When you get the board, immediatly scratch out the silk screen for the TX and RX pins. You will have a better chance attaching the wires at random than attemping to determine the proper connections in your screwed up head. Test the device and if it doesn't work swap the lines. The advantage of this approach is that you didn't spend hours trying to figure out the wrong way to wire the connections.

3) Try to figure out the proper connections and do the opposite of what you think is correct. I have had some success with this approach.

:rolleyes:

So, I had to flip those TX and RX wires, like so many before me. Well except of that, I had no problem recovering the drive from BSY state.

I will list the parts and methods I have used later.

Edited by ElectroGeeza

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moonoo    0

Hi guys, I'm from Mongolia. My Sony Laptop comes with Seatgate Momentus PSD 120gb HDD. Everything was perfect until the OS not found msg comes up. My HDD was in BSY error. And i followed Gradius instruction, i've followed exactly what was in the instruction but i never received any command promt in my HyperTerminal window. Luckily when i restart and thighten my HDD screws and plug it in my PC then it appeared again, now everything is ok. Backed up my files. Do you guys have any idea that why the HDD rebricked still i havent done any reprogramming thing?

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Hi guys, I'm from Mongolia. My Sony Laptop comes with Seatgate Momentus PSD 120gb HDD. Everything was perfect until the OS not found msg comes up. My HDD was in BSY error. And i followed Gradius instruction, i've followed exactly what was in the instruction but i never received any command promt in my HyperTerminal window. Luckily when i restart and thighten my HDD screws and plug it in my PC then it appeared again, now everything is ok. Backed up my files. Do you guys have any idea that why the HDD rebricked still i havent done any reprogramming thing?

Since when is the Momentus on the list of affected drives? :unsure:

This Gradius' (originally Okzo's a.k.a Yura's) recovery method is intended for the Barracuda 7200.11 and various Maxtor disk drives. It was not intended to be used on Momentus disk drives. So I'm not so surprised it doesn't work for you on your disk drive. How did you manage to recover your disk drive then? Well, obviously not by using this method, you said it yourself.

Why do you think your Momentus disk drive is stuck in the BSY state? What made you think that you could use this recovery method on your drive as well? Does it even have any of the symptoms described in this thread?

What do you mean by "rebricked? Is it bricked again? Is it working now or not?

What model is your Sony laptop? If you Momentus disk drive came in your Sony laptop, and it wasn't you who added it in it, then Sony should be able to help you better then this recovery method.

Edited by ElectroGeeza

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jaclaz    927
Before purchasing this part you need to know if you have a condition called UART dyslexia. This is a neurological disorder that will render you incapable of properly wireing this device no matter how my times you triple check the the wiring. I have this disorder and I have only found three possible solutions:

1) Find someone else without UART dyslexia to wire it up for you

2) When you get the board, immediatly scratch out the silk screen for the TX and RX pins. You will have a better chance attaching the wires at random than attemping to determine the proper connections in your screwed up head. Test the device and if it doesn't work swap the lines. The advantage of this approach is that you didn't spend hours trying to figure out the wrong way to wire the connections.

3) Try to figure out the proper connections and do the opposite of what you think is correct. I have had some success with this approach.

:rolleyes:

:P

Very nicely put.

OFF TOPIC! :ph34r:

It reminds me of truels:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truel

Here is a version, with solution:

http://www.puzzle.dse.nl/teasers/index_us.html#the_truel

:thumbup

jaclaz

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santropez    0

I am confused on which part of the drive I should place the cardstock between. Is it between the PCB and the Motor Contacts or the Head Contacts?? One guide says the Head contacts and the original post says Motor contacts.

Thanks

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faxizel    0

Hi.

If using a cellphone cable like the CA-42, the only thing I need to do is connect the cable's RX to the board's TX and the cable's TX to the board's RX, right? No need to worry about ground and +5v?

Thanks!

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