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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

4,864 posts in this topic

Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

There are also alternate cables on that link.

It will works, the IC is inside the USB connector, choose TTL-232R 3V3 model.

Here is the IC, this is the PCB version:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...2R_PCB_V100.pdf

Edited by Gradius2
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This will work.

This will tell you which wires are which:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...CABLES_V201.pdf

Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

There are also alternate cables on that link.

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me. :blushing:

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me. :blushing:

Even with my rubbish soldiering I'm sure I could too but I like to keep it simple.

Again thanks for all the work you have done on this. My Hard Drive has been out of action for ages!

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

This is why I told to you guys, that method (swapping PCBs) is way too risky.

Well, if the drive is still recognized by BIOS, try to re-flash the "good" one, if even after that you get the same result, then yes, you killed the drive.

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Thanks Gradius2 and Fatlip I successfully fixed the BSY. The problem was I was using a molex to SATA to power up the drive. Once I switched over to the PSU SATA connector everything works.

-k

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

Wow...i thought this would work for everybody else...but just in case, i can see some mistakes people could make though..

1. if you flash badpcb/gooddisk it should be the only hd in the computer, just in case your flashing the wrong hd ...haahahha :whistle:

2. your trying to flash the goodpcb/baddisk instead of the badpcb/gooddisk ...just remember your fixing the bad pcb.

3. you correctly flash the badpcb/gooddisk but do not swap it back to the original flavor badpcb/baddisk...

this is a good fix though, i am looking at all my files right now and coming from the busy issue before.

good luck

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

Check serial numbers with seagate update utility and confirm if is equal.

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

This is why I told to you guys, that method (swapping PCBs) is way too risky.

Well, if the drive is still recognized by BIOS, try to re-flash the "good" one, if even after that you get the same result, then yes, you killed the drive.

Hey Gradius, I'd like to ask if this module will work (it's the only TTL supplier I can find in this whole frickin' country on the web). No luck finding one in an IT district.

http://www.bizchip.com/kits.html

Part is BZ001, and it requires external power supply but I have no idea what does +7V-18V mean.

Thanks a bunch!

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Just chipping in with another success following the guide in the first post. Was performed on an ST3500320AS that had the BSY problem and was actually half a raid0 array. Restored it 100% working, booting with all files intact. YMMV.

I'd like to remind people that the TX line to the drive needs to be kept <3.3V (more like 3.0V) though - many 2.7V devices are 3.3V tolerant but not all. Unless there is specific 3.3V (3.6V) tolerance on the controller (I am not thinking the datasheet is available outside of an NDA) they may damage it. 5V would be heavily relying on a weak driver and parasitic (i.e. not guaranteed) elements in the controller. Powering the driver (the MAX232/ICL232/whatever you use) with a 3.0V battery as used in the guide is a good idea and within tolerance on 2.7V inputs but otherwise those zeners are very much required.

Many thanks to gradius and others involved in the solution :)

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me. :blushing:

Part ordered... Update to follow

http://nz.farnell.com/ftdi/ttl-232r-3v3/ca...equestid=191254

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Hello,

I have a question regarding the exact moment to power off/on the hdd in the bsy state tutorial. In the first post, it's said to power off before the last command:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

But in the other tutorial on page six (post #101) http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=829013

It says to power off/on before the command:

F3 T>i4,1,22

Which one is the correct moment to power off/on the hdd?

Thanx in advance.

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

Wow...i thought this would work for everybody else...but just in case, i can see some mistakes people could make though..

1. if you flash badpcb/gooddisk it should be the only hd in the computer, just in case your flashing the wrong hd ...haahahha :whistle:

2. your trying to flash the goodpcb/baddisk instead of the badpcb/gooddisk ...just remember your fixing the bad pcb.

3. you correctly flash the badpcb/gooddisk but do not swap it back to the original flavor badpcb/baddisk...

this is a good fix though, i am looking at all my files right now and coming from the busy issue before.

good luck

Hi thanx...

1) Yes it was the only disc in the computer.

2) I def flashed the bad pcb on the good disk

3) I swapped the boards back. the "original" good disc is still functioning.

ps. the "bad" pcb board is already flashed to SD1A cuz if i boot it not connected to the motor I can see it is SD1A, but if you let it time out with the motor connected then try to flash it you get the SD1000340AS "expected" error...I really dont see how you can damage a disc doing this. the heads are designed to seek across the platters millions of times.

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Hey Gradius, I'd like to ask if this module will work (it's the only TTL supplier I can find in this whole frickin' country on the web). No luck finding one in an IT district.

http://www.bizchip.com/kits.html

Part is BZ001, and it requires external power supply but I have no idea what does +7V-18V mean.

Thanks a bunch!

It might work, but you need to contact them to checking out which is the output voltage on TTL lines (TX & RX).

Shouldn't be above +5V DC, ideal would be +3.3V DC max. About 7~18V it means it accept power supply from 7 until 18V:

http://www.bizchip.com/170200006.pdf

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Hi enrolb, have u tried the method (disconnect PCB from HBA, connect HD to SATA & power as usual, try flashing then new firmware)? Did it work?

I am currently waiting on parts to attempt this procedure as I have a bricked 1Tb drive with the BSY stuck on. I was wondering if by disconnecting the PCB from HDA (or as some have suggested - putting in the card paper between PCB to HDA contacts) and then connect the PCB part of drive connected as usual (SATA, power etc) that the firmware could then be flashed with new SD1A firmware? or does the BSY signal still get stuck on? anyone try this?
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Hello,

I have a question regarding the exact moment to power off/on the hdd in the bsy state tutorial. In the first post, it's said to power off before the last command:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

But in the other tutorial on page six (post #101) http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=829013

It says to power off/on before the command:

F3 T>i4,1,22

Which one is the correct moment to power off/on the hdd?

Thanx in advance.

You power off for just 10sec:

At this step you'll need to POWER OFF your HD for 10sec, and then POWER ON again. By power off, remove the SATA power (not PCB!).

So, you turn off for 10sec, then turn on again, before i4... cmd.

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ps. the "bad" pcb board is already flashed to SD1A cuz if i boot it not connected to the motor I can see it is SD1A, but if you let it time out with the motor connected then try to flash it you get the SD1000340AS "expected" error...I really dont see how you can damage a disc doing this. the heads are designed to seek across the platters millions of times.

When you change PCBs, they never are the same, even if they match in P/N and model, every PCB has variables, the same goes to HDAs.

For example, lets says PCB_1 delivers at 0.18ms XN command, while PCB_2 will delivers a XY command and at 0.12ms.

Trying to fix doing pcb swap method is based on luck (no kidding).

In simple words: You're trying to jump from the car while going in high speed.

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Gradius2, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

I repaired my ST31000340AS SD15 by your tutorial.

Sure no problem. :blushing:

Another happy $eagate user. :hello:

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Gradius2, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

I repaired my ST31000340AS SD15 by your tutorial.

Circuit from http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...ize-t11040.html

was soldered and works fine.

spellcasterbr

I did power off ONLY before the last command:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

(This is my choice)

I had a look at that forum and the guys over there are a bunch of pretentious w*****s.

I vote that everyone who has successfully used this Gradius2's method (not the PCB swap method) go over there and let them know.

http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...-t11040-20.html

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Kiwi,

I am going to "claim" that I was the person who really kicked this whole quest off with pichi.

I have never made a negative post in the hddguru forums, due to 3 reasons.

A) What's the point?

B) You never know when someone will extend you a helping hand

C) I knew what the answer was going to be (Contact a DR company)

Did the pretentious(and sometimes arrogant) attitude that the users there showed bother me? Yes, it did, however I also accepted the fact that this is their lives and living.

The things that the hddguru forums did to kick off this quest was:

The posting of the 0GB LBA=0 video

Someone made a post about "3 wires and a terminal connection"

The non-soldering option to connect to the drive

The link to some russian sites which actually showed the command list of the 7200.11 drive, as well as many other tips.

After I found this information, it then led to the 0GB recovery document released by Salvation Data with the Salvation fix for 7200.11 drives.

After that, everything just snowballed until Graduis found the exact commands. I would like to say that pichi and I were close, but we really weren't. (after seeing the final command set)

So don't get into a flamewar with them. Thank them for their useful posts, that were almost all posted in a totally arrogant "I know and you don't" fashion. They can complain all they want, but in hindsight, it all started with their forum.

Cheers,

G

Gradius2, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

I repaired my ST31000340AS SD15 by your tutorial.

Circuit from http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...ize-t11040.html

was soldered and works fine.

spellcasterbr

I did power off ONLY before the last command:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

(This is my choice)

I had a look at that forum and the guys over there are a bunch of pretentious w*****s.

I vote that everyone who has successfully used this Gradius2's method (not the PCB swap method) go over there and let them know.

http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...-t11040-20.html

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Hellow from Portugal, help me please!

I have a Seagate 7200.11 st3500320as SD15 500GB BARRACUDA and my disk is dead, not detectable in BIOS.

I use this materials:

dsc00261ij2.jpg

dsc00263fl8.jpg

dsc00264kd0.jpg

dsc00266zb4.jpg

Nokia 3210 Unlock Cable to PS/2 connector

PS/2 connector to RS232 Serial connector

http://english.cxem.net/mobile/mobile129.php

http://free-zg.htnet.hr/GoranJurkovic/nokia/

http://www.panuworld.net/nuukiaworld/hardw...les/general.htm

CO-FLA32.jpg

nokia_3210.jpg

1-Green(BTEMP),2-Blue(TX),3-Black(GND),4-Red(MBUS),5-Orange(RX),6-Yellow(VPP) - (6 cables/colors)

I connect the GND pin from mother board for Black PS/2 cable.

I connect the +5v of Power LED pin from mother board for Yellow PS/2 cable.

I connect the TX (the blue cable in picture) for Orange PS/2 cable.

I connect the RX (the white cable in disk picture) for Blue PS/2 cable.

I connect the cables with hand made.

Example picture:

cables12jm0.jpg

So I followed all the procedures of the 1st post of Gradius2, and the console's "HyperTerminal Private Edition" when I'm on, the computer begins to be something slow, CTRL+Z and nothing happens. As if there were no connection.

I´m stopped because of this problem disk and the data on my disk is very important to continue with my work for college.

Can all help me please? Thanks all very much!

WHOO HOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!

Extra special thanks to everyone who worked towards the BSY fix and all those people who took the time to help me and reply to all my questions.

I couldn't wait for my rs232 adapter that i ordered so i gambled and modified a nokia 3210 data cable and it worked. (Just with the RX TX connected..And SATA power to the drive of course).

Fortunately after I recovered the BSY fault, my drive was recognised as its proper size by my bios sata.

As we speak my data is being dumped from the drive to a different one.

Guy's i owe one hell of a lot of data to you lot.

THANK YOU!!!

Edited by PrOfiLer
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