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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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#2676
VideoRipper

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It's a known firmware issue, so you will get the same problems after another
320 log entries if you stick to the SD15 firmware. :angry:

I think you should get rid of the drive, if possible:
  • Backup the drive (at least the most important stuff)
  • Download and burn SeaTools for DOS to a CD-R
  • Reboot your PC from the CD-ROM (with the drive attached)
  • Do a short- and a long-DST test
    --------------- SeaTools for DOS v2.17 ---------------
    
    Device 0 is Seagate Device ST3500320AS  9QM22HVN       On Intel ICH5
    Max Native Address 976773167
    Device is 48 Bit Addressed - Number of LBAs 976773167 ( 500.108 GB )
    This drive supports Security Features
    SMART Is Supported And ENABLED
    SMART Has NOT Been Tripped
    DST Is Supported
    Logging Feature Set Is Supported
    POH 5994  Current Temp 23
    
    Started Short DST  2/12/2010 @ 11:37.4
    DST -- FAILED - Read Element LBA = 0
    Your SeaTools Test Code: A7E7D56A
    Short DST FAILED  2/12/2010 @ 11:37.16
  • When you get an error-code like above (A7E7D56A), write it down and
    create an RMA at Seagate to have it swapped using the error-code.
  • If you don't get an error-code (which I doubt) and you want to keep on
    using the drive, do the firmware update.
    ...but I do think you *should* swap it either way...

Greetz,

Peter.

Edited by VideoRipper, 30 March 2010 - 12:59 PM.

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#2677
jaclaz

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(BTW: I don't know who proved that one needs a 3.3V TTL driver; I don't

Now you know:
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2338

The point is that, even if the interface "understands" TTL/CMOS (which I doubt), a 3.3V will work anyway, whilst a 4.8V will be understood as a "suffusion of yellow".
I don't think anyone has actually documented the EXACT signals level the HD actually "understands", though.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz, 30 March 2010 - 01:29 PM.


#2678
VideoRipper

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Not really evidence, but thanks Jaclaz :)

My theory was that you can find out the correct needed TTL-level by measuring
the levels on the TX-line of the drive (with an oscilloscope, a multimeter would
be too slow); if it sends you 3.3V it must expect 3.3V as well.

Ah well... in my experience 5V TTL works just as well and it helped me out ;)

Greetz,

Peter.
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#2679
jaclaz

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Not really evidence, but thanks Jaclaz :)

The matter is really confusing.

Let's try not to confuse further ideas, let's assume that there is no such thing as 5V TTL, but rather that there is:
  • TTL/CMOS which is 5V
  • TTL which is 3.3V
http://www.interfacebus.com/voltage_threshold.html

The fact that the chip used is a MAX232 doesn't necessarily imply that the output will be at TTL/CMOS levels, see here for a series of examples:
http://www.panuworld...bles/basics.htm
http://www.panuworld.../cables/old.htm
http://www.panuworld...cables/fbus.htm

The Nokia cables use TTL 3.3v, and NOT 5V.

This is how I understand the issue (not necessarily right :ph34r: ).

Case #1:
Disk using TTL
Adapter using TTL
Everything "speaks" the same language, and everything is OK.

Case #2:
Disk using TTL/CMOS
Adapter using TTL/CMOS
Everything "speaks" the same language, and everything is OK.

Case #3:
Disk using TTL/CMOS
Adapter using TTL
If the drive is working with TTL/CMOS levels, it will understand anyway the 3.3v signals sent to it's receiver through the 3.3v TTL adapter TX line, and will send back to the adapter a 5V one, that the adapter's receiver may:
  • "flatten" to 3.3V max and understand
  • get it at 5V and don't understand it

Case #4:
Disk using TTL
Adapter using TTL/CMOS
If the drive is working with TTL levels, when the TTL/CMOS sends a 5V signal, hard disk's receiver may:
  • "flatten" to 3.3V max and understand
  • get it at 5V and don't understand it
The hard disk's transmitter will send a 3.3V signal that the TTL adapter will understand anyway.

Case #5:
As often happens with "standards", they are mainly b***sh** and noone actually respects them so a given adaprter works with the hard disk and another one doesn't, and noone knows until he actually tries it.

Without knowing the specifications for the Seagate disk, we are in this situation:
  • TTL interfaces (3.3V) will work ALWAYS if they can "flatten" the hypothetical higher level signal from the hard disk
  • TTL/CMOS interfaces may or may not work

Anyone is free to choose an adapter and trying it, of course. :)

If ANYWHERE (meaning either on the hard disk side or on the adapter's side) there are the two pulling down 2.7v or 3v zener diodes (or some other "peak pulling down" circuit):
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2645
anything will do, as anything between hard disk and adapter will be within TTL levels.

The number of people that (after having been very lucky and found the "right" Nokia cable or bought a bunch of them before finding the right one) had success with the Nokia cable make me think that we are in case #1 (or in #5 :whistle:), though it is very possible that those that had problems with the original "auto-switching" adapter simply had "something else" going wrong, but I find it unprobable that a "good" adapter as the one originally used has this kind of problems:
http://www.sparkfun....products_id=449

RS232 Shifter SMD

sku: PRT-00449

Description: The smallest and easiest to use serial conversion circuit on the market! This board has one purpose in life - to convert RS232 to TTL and vice versa (TX and RX). This will allow a microcontroller to communicate with a computer. Shifter SMD is powered from the target application and can run at any voltage! That's right - power the board at 5V and the unit will convert RS232 to 5V TTL. Power the board at 2.8V and the Shifter board will convert RS232 to 2.8V CMOS TTL. Includes two indicator LEDs for TX and RX. Runs from 300bps up to 115200bps.

Please note how the terms appear reversed :w00t: from what the reference shows:
http://www.interface..._threshold.html
from other sources, it seems to me like this latter is accurate and the peeps at sparkfun completely missed the point.

However, the mistery remains....:unsure:, the good news :) are that there shouldn't be any harm done if the hard disk gets a "full" 5V signal level, so, at the most it won't work, but there should be no risk in trying it.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz, 31 March 2010 - 06:01 AM.


#2680
Gram

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Hi,
New here, found this site when looking up the "not recognised" 7200.11 problem. I have checked on the Seagate page, and while my drive is listed by model and serial number, my disk firmware is LC11, rather than the AD/SD group. I see in Gradius's post (19 Jan 2009) that the Seagate site says -

"**Note: If your drive has CC or LC firmware, your drive is not affected and no further action is required. Attempting to flash the firmware of a drive with CC or LC firmware will result in rendering your drive inoperable"

I cannot see this note on Seagate's site now (have they discovered otherwise?), and on 22 Jan 2009 (post #142) SPOOX repaired his drive - which had firmware LC15.
I am reading page by page and have got to page 37 - but can anyone tell me (sooner) if LC11 drives can be fixed this way? The problem does appear to be the BSY fault; the drive had been working perfectly normally until just one day on booting up, the drive was not recognised in BIOS. It has been tested in other computers; still not recognised.

If it can be revived, is there any updated LC firmware - and if so, would it be worth upgrading anyway?

Thanks in advance for any advice and help,

Gram

#2681
ncencence

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Just stopping by say thanks, got my 500gb 7200.11 working again after it got stuck in BSY state following a power cut last year. :)

#2682
VideoRipper

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You don't actually have to update the drive's firmware to enable access to it again.

Although I can't substantiate this, I think it's *relatively* safe to perform a SMART-erase
(level 1> N1), followed by a partition regeneration (level T> m0,2,2,,,,,22).
This *in theory* would unlock your drive from its BSY-state.

A firmware update is only necessairy to prevent this same thing happening again in the future,
after 320 log-entries (though you should try to get rid of the drive if possible).

But maybe jaclaz (or someone else) can eleborate on this? :unsure:

So before you do anything, wait until someone else comes along (or just do it if you're bold
enough) ;)

Greetz,

Peter.

Edited by VideoRipper, 31 March 2010 - 03:53 PM.

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#2683
Eaglemania

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Hello!

first post gah-

well i've been reading this thread for quite some time now and finally i'm trying to fix my seagate(BSY error thingie), but i have some problems :(..

first i use a nokia ca-42 cable, like in this video
figured would be easiest...
well...

my ca-42 cable however has 5 wires
black
blue
white
yellow
red

i tried it 2 days now to connect it succesfully and the ONLY combination i found is (pcb facing up)
red,black,white,blue
with this combination ctrl+z works, else just nothing or garbage letters!

BUT with this combination the cable i'm using only get's recognised by the pc if the pcb board is disconnected, once i'm at the part where you reconnect the pcb and turn off the drive, after 10 seconds on again the cable won't be recognised anymore! just nothing... ctrl+z won't work and i can't put in the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command

if the pcb board is connected i can get the cable to "work" with this combination (again pcb facing up)
something,black,red,something...
it get's recognised just by having black and red in it.. tho if i cange them up (like in the combination with the pcb disconnected) it won't recognise the cable again... and every combination with black,red in the middle in hyperterminal shows nothing or garbage letters(crtl+z won't work too)

anyone any ideas what else i can try?

i'm sorry if this(thing) was asked already but i didn't know what to search for(and i only read a small portion of this HUGE thread after all..)
also sorry for my english , i'm german

edit(like the 6 time..): just read the first post again.. because of frustration i tried once to not power it down and back up again but just put in the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command... with nothing happening i turned the whole thing off... i thought "yea i didn't turn it off before.. ofcouse it won't work :(*unplugs powercable* " ... guess that's it already isn't it? the hdd is useless? :(
edit again.. couldnt take my hands of it, tried to get the cable recognised with pcb connected again.. and.. for some strange reason now it's recognised with red,black,nothing,nothing... wich..didn't..work..before...totally confused..well..
edito... i've run it again, everythings fine.. until i powered off, powered on, cable gone... (like before, red black white blue)hows that freakin possible, an edit before it recognised the cable with the pcb connected with red on first slot, now after it's powered on again i have to put red to slot 3, and if i do that hyperterminal won't do anything .. with like...
nothing,black,red,white/blue/yellow...
get you guys all confused with my edits too >.<
ediiit: tried something different , put red on+ black on- of 3v battery, connected blue and white on tx and rx ... got an -> (small arrow) on hyperterminal, switched tx and rx... and.. again.. small arrow.. hm

Edited by Eaglemania, 01 April 2010 - 04:40 PM.


#2684
mundy5

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Go to p. 131 and see my post and the pictures to see if you can see what color wires you need. You only need 3 of them, not 4. Hopefully you can make the necessary correlation to the correct wires to your CA-42 cable. How are you connecting the cable wires to the actual HDD? I hope you are using some jumper pins or something like that to make a firm connection. Let me know if the pictures are of any help.

Hello!



i tried it 2 days now to connect it succesfully and the ONLY combination i found is (pcb facing up)
red,black,white,blue
with this combination ctrl+z works, else just nothing or garbage letters!

BUT with this combination the cable i'm using only get's recognised by the pc if the pcb board is disconnected, once i'm at the part where you reconnect the pcb and turn off the drive, after 10 seconds on again the cable won't be recognised anymore! just nothing... ctrl+z won't work and i can't put in the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command



Edited by mundy5, 01 April 2010 - 04:47 PM.


#2685
Eaglemania

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i'm using crimp pins i salvaged out of an old uhm.. IDE ..to.. PCIe? power supply cable, they fit so-so, but i squeezed each a little, so now they fit pretty decent i believe (also don't unplug that easily) when i connect it with black for ground white blue for tx/rx the ca-42 cable doesn't show up in the hardware manager(i believe it's called..well, maybe) and i can't call the com (won't even show up, only if i put black and red on the drive or on battery)

and if i do put black and red on the drive so the cable atleast... shows up on my pc , everything i try as 3rd cable yea does nothing in hyperterminal or just gives garbage letters

also the usb side of my ca-42 is in some metal casing ... (originally blue rubber around that..) so i can't see the connections there

Edited by Eaglemania, 01 April 2010 - 05:24 PM.


#2686
VideoRipper

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Just another suggestion (which appeared on the previous page) is that not all CA-42 cables
are created equal. :no:

It seems that some (non-Nokia) cables only work good upto 9600 Baud, while you'll
need 38400 Baud to unbrick your drive.

You can test by shorting the TX- and RX-leads of the cable and performing a loop-
back test:
  • First make sure your cable is plugged in and can be selected
  • Connect the TX- and RX-leads to each other, creating a loopback
  • Open HyperTerminal, select the CA-42 and use 9600 Baud for the speed
  • Type some characters on your keyboard: they should be echood back
    on the screen
  • Now close the connection, select the connection-properties and set
    the connection-speed a bit higher: 19200 Baud
  • Again: type some characters and see if they get echood back exactly
    on the screen as you type them
  • If it does: go back to step 5, but now select 38400 Baud and check
    the output given when typing on your keyboard
    If it doesn't: you'll have to get yourself another (type of) cable

Also (another tip): make sure you disconnect first before removing the cable
from the USB-port or the COM-port stays in an open state and can only be
reset by restarting your computer.

Greetz,

Peter.
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#2687
Eaglemania

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BOOM made it 4 more partitions almost 500gb of data back YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES!

i made it with my 4 cable combo :/ (Red,black,white,blue) got till the point where i should power off the drive , instead i powered down the whole system(not reboot) and back in 10 seconds removing the usb before that and disconnecting from hyperterminal

started all back up,put usb back in pc, run hyperterinal and directly ctrl+z and the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command, and it worked!! powered down again, back up and everythings back :) so happy now, really thanks for the help you two, and for thanks for this great thread!

#2688
VideoRipper

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Congratulations Eaglemania! :thumbup
Another bad drive can be scrapped from the list :ph34r:

Now:

Greetz,

Peter.
To C the BASIC things in life, use Delphi

#2689
Eaglemania

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will do! thanks again!


happy happy happy *jumps in circles*

#2690
jaclaz

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A firmware update is only necessairy to prevent this same thing happening again in the future,
after 320 log-entries (though you should try to get rid of the drive if possible).

But maybe jaclaz (or someone else) can eleborate on this? :unsure:


Yes, to re-iterate once again.

Seagate has somehow admitted that a firmware bug (according to them affecting only a very limited number of drives made in a certain factory and in a given timeframe, and only some of them, coming from one or a few of the manufacturing lines) are affected by this "circular register" bug.
Supposedly these few lines had incorrectly set in-factory testing procedure that left the drive in such a condition that when the drive LOG hit (320+n*256) with 0<=n<=255, the drive will lock.

In English there is a term for the above, which I cannot write here, but is 8 letter long, starts with B, ends with T and has as middle letters LS, you get the idea. ;)

There are some posts dealing exactly with the issue and the reasons and the numbers possibly involved:
From here:
http://www.msfn.org/...=128092&st=1007
for about 30 posts
From here:
http://www.msfn.org/...=128092&st=1042
for about 50 posts

What is not (as I see it ) properly perceived is that the log getting at 320 is just one of the possible causes for a bricking.

Logically this should lead to EITHER a LBA0 OR a BSY problem, but since anything about the matter is actually hushed up by Seagate, and none has a way to investigate the matter properly, let's assume that the SAME problem with log can actually produce two DIFFERENT types of bricking. :rolleyes:

There may be several causes (or maybe tens of them), completely unrelated to the "log at 320" one, that may cause the bricking.

We have now evidence, after more than one year from the initial reports and published solution, that a number of drives manufactured in various factories AND NOT manufactured in the originally given timeframe, AND also of different model/revision can (and have :ph34r: ) bricked themselves.

So there may be MORE reasons than the original one.

The opposite thing is happening now, the solutions provided by this thread - meant to ONLY fix the original issue - are seen by everyone with a failed hard disk as a "miracle cure for everything", it is NOT the case.

Replacing the firmware with a new version is pretty much pointless, as I see it, I guess I need to explain this part in detail.
  • IF the original firmware is buggy (re:320 log) AND it is the cause for the bricking THEN, assumed that the new firmware is NOT buggy (re:320 log), it DOES make sense to update it.
  • but on the other hand:
  • IF the original firmware is buggy (re:320 log) AND it is the cause for the bricking THEN, the worst thing that can happen to you is the need (since you have now the tools and the knowledge) to re-unbrick it every 6 months to 1 year.

There is ANOTHER possibility:
  • There are MANY causes for the bricking, not necessarily linked to a given firmware, and the solutions given in this thread may TEMPORARILY cure them, but since the reason is NOT ALWAYS firmware related, updating the firmware WON'T DO anything that prevents the bricking to re-occur.

As I see it, once a drive has bricked, the right thing to do is:
  • unbrick it
  • salvage the DATA on it
  • EITHER:

  • RMA it and get a new one (if still under warranty)
  • throw the drive in the dustbin
  • use it (either the original one fixed or the re-furbished/new one) for a low-low risk backup (like second or third backup copy - and yes, you NEED AT LEAST 2 (TWO) backup copies on different media of any DATA that is worth anything to you)

IMHO, people thinking to:
  • use it as "main" drive
  • use it as "only" storage

No matter if with the old or new firmware, are playing with fire, and it is statistically evident that when playing with fire burns happen more often than when playing with sand or mud. :whistle:

jaclaz

#2691
VideoRipper

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Amen to that ;)

We should make a sticky of this thread... oh wait, it already is! :thumbup
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#2692
kisielk

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I am fixing the BSY Error, I wollowed the steps till turning the power off and on before pressing (after the i4,1,22 line). Now the terminal hanged up, i couldnt press ctrl+z and m0,2,2,,,,,22 ... The drive is running and I dont know what to do... Should I continue the procedure from ctrl+z and the m0,2,2... line? Or start from the beginning?

Thank you for any help, I am very worried for my drive, because on the first site it is written that if I turn the drive off I can lose all data :(...

#2693
sons

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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs (final and revised version):

Press CTRL+Z on terminal and type:

Partition regeneration:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22 (enter)

If you didn't get the msg above, then you skipped something important, and turning off your drive now will render an unreadable drive, so be careful.
Gradius


hey,
iv'e accidentally turned the off the drive before getting the messages back from "m0,2,2,,,,,22".
now, when i powering up the drive, its making weird sounds of "beep, beep, beep".
did i totally bricked my drive? or there is a way back?!

thanx.

#2694
VideoRipper

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I'm afraid so (but I can't say for sure of course) :}

You *could* try the following (untested and at your own risk):
  • Remove PCB from drive or insulate the contacts to the actuator/motor again
  • Apply power to PCB
  • Type: CTRL+Z which should give you the "F3 T>"-prompt
  • Type: "/2" to get to level 2 (prompt gives: "F3 2>")
  • Type: "Z" to "spin down" the motor
  • Reseat the PCB back to the drive (or remove the insulation)
  • Type: "U" to spin up the motor again (you should hear it spinning up)
  • Type: "/1" to go to level 1 (prompt shows: "F3 1>")
  • Type: "m0,2,2,,,,,22" (and hope for the best...)
  • WAIT until you see a message like:

    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8
    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 00 secs

  • If you get an error-message or the drive is "Beep-beep-beep"-ing again, it
    apparently didn't work and the drive is f****d up :wacko:
    (Or someone might have other suggestions?)

Above commands need to be entered without the "Quotes" of course.

Good luck,

Peter.
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#2695
mundy5

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BSY and the LBA0 problems do not have any beeping sounds associated with them. I'm afraid you now have a different problem.

hey,
iv'e accidentally turned the off the drive before getting the messages back from "m0,2,2,,,,,22".
now, when i powering up the drive, its making weird sounds of "beep, beep, beep".
did i totally bricked my drive? or there is a way back?!

thanx.



#2696
sons

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I'm afraid so (but I can't say for sure of course) :}

You *could* try the following (untested and at your own risk):
[list]
[*]Remove PCB from drive or insulate the contacts to the actuator/motor again
[*]Apply power to PCB
[*]Type: CTRL+Z which should give you the "F3 T>"-prompt
[*]Type: "/2" to get to level 2 (prompt gives: "F3 2>")
[*]Type: "Z" to "spin down" the motor
[*]Reseat the PCB back to the drive (or remove the insulation)

Until here all fine.
this is the terminal output:
F3 T>/2

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete
Elapsed Time 0.135 msecs


[*]Type: "U" to spin up the motor again (you should hear it spinning up)


once im typing 'U', (terminal output: F3 2>U), this weird noise starts (and no output returned). maybe it's the motor not spinning?
any suggestions? im very frustrated.

thanx again.

Edited by sons, 04 April 2010 - 08:04 AM.


#2697
hurn

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i can get the drive to spindown F3 2>z spin down complete elapsed time 0.140 msecsbut get error 1009 DETSEC 00006008 spin error elapsed time 1min 57sec r/w status 2 r/w error 8415
gftfvnvfdsx

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete
Elapsed Time 0.140 msecs
F3 2>U

Error 1009 DETSEC 00006008
Spin Error
Elapsed Time 1 mins 57 secs
R/W Status 2 R/W Error 84150180
F3 2>






0180 please help or advise thanks

#2698
VideoRipper

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@sons: if your drive was working normally before the BSY/LBA0-problem occured, I find
it highly unlikely, the drive motor suddenly stopped working while unbricking it...

But... anything is possible, of course. :whistle:

If you carefully tap the side of the drive with the handle-end of a screwdriver while trying
to spin up the drive-motor again, does it sound like it's spinning or is it still making all
kinds of unhealthy noises?

@hurn: of course I can't be sure about this (since I got my drive working at the first try),
but I guess that either the contacts of the motor or those of the actuator don't touch
the PCB properly...
Are they bent perhaps, or maybe they're dirty?

Normally it should only take about 5 to 10 seconds for the motor to spin up again,
not almost 2 minutes:

F3 2>U

Spin Up Complete
Elapsed Time 6.824 secs

Does it sound like it's spinning or is it staying dead silent?

Otherwise, it *could* mean the PCB is defective... :(

Greetz,

Peter.
To C the BASIC things in life, use Delphi

#2699
hurn

hurn
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hi it sounds as though it is trying to spin up

#2700
WiNuWiNu

WiNuWiNu
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  • Joined 05-April 10
  • OS:Windows 7 x86
  • Country: Country Flag
Ok...So, I have this problem, just found this thread, I've read several different versions of the instructions, even the ones on the google page.

BUT, my sata power cable I think for the harddrive? all the sections are black, and there's only four wires, whereas the ones pictured have six I believe with easily distinguishable colors.

I also don't have a serial port, so i'm assuming I'll have to use the nokia thingy for usb.

But the instructions seem like they're for advanced DIY'ers, I am far and away, an amateur. So is it possible to get the steps in laymens terms X:

Also perhaps a list of links to everything I would need to buy that I might not have? A retail list would be amazing.

Or perhaps there's a simpler way just to get the data off the drive? I care little for the drive it self, There's just a few folders I wish to save, maybe 10~20 gb's.


Any help is GREATLY appreciated, the 'bricking' of this drive has made the computer unusable[I'm saving up to build a whole new computer, didn't feel like spending the money on a replacement harddrive for this outdated one.

OH, also a list of programs I might need to do it? XP was on the harddrive so I'm not really sure what all I need.




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