[FossilRock]

I decided to start from scratch. I put the circuit board back on (without the contact inhibitor) and was surprised to hear it spin up and then start clicking followed by it spinning down.

Is this a symptom of the controller or the drive itself?

 Seagate 1.5 Clicking.mp3 (214.75K)
Number of downloads: 3

This post has been edited by FossilRock: 03 December 2011 - 09:53 AM

[Huygens]

FossilRock, on 03 December 2011 - 08:56 AM, said:

The CP2102 Data Sheet shows that the output is 3.3v.

It may not be enough that the signal is 3.3V. The shape of the signal could interfere too.

I would try an RS232 adapter as most USB adapters don't work with the Seagate HD.
It could also be important how low the low signal is, 0.79 V is quite high for being a low signal
and may not be low enough for the HD to recognize it as a low signal, as the signal toggles up
and down during communication. Also verify that the GND on the adapter is the same GND on
the PCB side, by connecting each to a multimeter and getting a resistance of max 5 Ohm.

[jaclaz]

FossilRock, on 03 December 2011 - 08:56 AM, said:

The CP2102 Data Sheet shows that the output is 3.3v.

Where exactly?
Mind you, I am not saying that the CP2102 does not support the "lower" TTL levels (I simply DO NOT know for sure that ) , only that I cannot find (and I doubt you were able to ) this particular spec on the provided datasheet.
If you review the "readme first":
http://www.msfn.org/...-read-me-first/
(Point #6)
you will find a link to here:
http://www.interface..._threshold.html
where the thing is graphically explained.

We have an indirect report here:
http://www.msfn.org/...-500gb-problem/

Quote

The description states:
"The Silicon Labs CP2102 USB to TTL Serial Cable is designed to allow simple rapid connection of microprocessors to the USB interface. It allows legacy products using PC serial ports to be easily upgraded to USB. The cable contains a USB to serial converter chip and is terminated in a standard 0.1” pitch header. The serial data is at standard 5v TTL levels allowing it to interface directly to the micro-processor of the intended application. The RX input is also 3v3 compatiable and if your 3v3 microcontroller is 5v tolerant then it can be used directly with 3v3 systems. All inputs/outputs are protected for shorts and ESD, and the +5v output is regulated."

notable parts bolded for your convenience.
IF this is the case, that adapter WILL NOT work to "talk" to the Seagate drive.
See what was replied at the time:

Quote

No, that converter you were talking about may work, but you are taking chances that the controller on board is "5v tolerant" something for which we do not have definitive evidence, in a nutshell:

• 3.3v will work
  
• 5v/3.3v may work
  
• 5v WON'T work

Based on just this partial info I would confirm what you have already been told:

Huygens, on 28 November 2011 - 06:18 PM, said:

I think your adapter either sends or expects 5V signals as there is a clean USB-connector on the PC side. You should try another adapter which is sure to send 3.3V signals.

jaclaz, on 01 December 2011 - 03:04 AM, said:

If it doesn't work, there are 4 possibilities:

• you connected the the wires "badly" (I don't believe this)
  
• the adapter is a "dud"
  
• the adapter is NOT a "dud" but it outputs "something" that the PCB doesn't like, so it is not an"absolute dud" but rather a "relative dud"
  
• the PCB - for any reason - cannot communicate through the TTL port

Once discarded #1, your only choice (as you can't do anything about #4 ) is either ascertain if #2 or #3 apply (oscilloscope) or presume anyway that one of them applies and try with another adapter, possibly one already mentioned in this thread and known to be among the "working ones".

again bolded the relevant parts for your convenience.

Since the Seagate circuit FOR SURE does not "like" 5V TTL/CMOS levels and operates at 3.3V TTL levels, IF the adapter you have is "3v3 tolerant" on the Rx line (which obviously ANY adapter would since the 0.8÷3.3v range is WITHIN BOTH TTL/CMOS and TTL specs per given linked page ) you may want to get something like this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745
Or TRY mkaing a similar voltage divider with two small resistor on the adapter Tx line (HD Rx) to lower it's peaks (you will need a 10K and a 20K resistor
Of course the above may or may not work, and you would have an easier life by just getting an appropriate adapter.....

FossilRock, on 03 December 2011 - 08:56 AM, said:

I also have another drive identical to the problem drive (other than the serial number, they are the same) that works fine.
I've tested just the circuit board (powered) for both drives and I get the exact same results.

Can you "talk" to that other HD with the same USB/TTL adapter?
If NO, it will be a confirmation that there is some problem with that particular adapter (again cannot say if with the "model" or the actual "specimen" you have )

FossilRock, on 03 December 2011 - 08:56 AM, said:

When unpowered it appears to be in loopback mode because everything I type (alphanumeric) shows up in HyperTerminal. I've also tried Putty with similar results.

Yep , you see, if the PCB is not powered it cannot - obviously - "boot" the "miniOS" which is it's "firmware", when unpowered it may either "short" the terminals or leave them open, but it is pointless to try to "talk" to an unpowered device anyway.

jaclaz

[FossilRock]

jaclaz, on 03 December 2011 - 12:21 PM, said:

FossilRock, on 03 December 2011 - 08:56 AM, said:

The CP2102 Data Sheet shows that the output is 3.3v.

Where exactly?
Mind you, I am not saying that the CP2102 does not support the "lower" TTL levels (I simply DO NOT know for sure that ) , only that I cannot find (and I doubt you were able to ) this particular spec on the provided datasheet.

Page 14 / Section 8. Voltage Regulator / Table 10.

I'm currently working on a soft-o'scope utilizing an Arduino board for the measurements. Which may yield some useful results for the thread.

Back to the original problem; the drive appears to have died. The motor doesn't appear to spin up now and makes a slight, repetitive hum/buzz sound.

[jaclaz]

FossilRock, on 04 December 2011 - 05:59 AM, said:

Page 14 / Section 8. Voltage Regulator / Table 10.

That has NOTHING to do with TTL levels.
That part is about the Voltage regulator that is included in the chip and is abiut Vcc ("power") and NOT "signal".

FossilRock, on 04 December 2011 - 05:59 AM, said:

Back to the original problem; the drive appears to have died. The motor doesn't appear to spin up now and makes a slight, repetitive hum/buzz sound.

Since you removed the board, and also used the "cardboard", check thoroughfully contacts between HD and PCB:
http://www.msfn.org/...te/page__st__24

jaclaz

[bat0u]

Hi,

i am new to the forum and having the same exact problem with my barracuda 7200.11, well I think I do. So I thought I should briefly explain
the symptoms and how I got here to you experts, to make sure I am right here.

My harddrive is an external maxtor case with a seagate barracuda 7200.11 (I can post the serial if that helps). It is a few years old and just stopped
working about 3 weeks ago, meaning It turns on completely fine, spinning normally, but wouldn't be recognised by my laptop. Not in the explorer,
not in the device manager, nowhere. So after trying the usuals (different case, different usb cable, different laptop...) and googling for a week,
I rang up the *free* seagate support. And although my drive is definetly out of warranty, there was a very friendly guy picking up and trying to help me.
And he quite quickly asumed, that my drive would be busy or bsy, because of very certain circumstances and accidents, that I didn't quite understand
(but would like to if you guys can explain them to me). Anyway he told me, that I would have two chances, either a professional data recovery firm or
and I found that funny, THIS board "MSFN". And since I am willing to try it myself, I am here but before I start, I'd like to ask:

1. do you think my problem is the busy or bsy error and it is worth trying the tutorial?
2. Which description should I follow? The one on the first page? or the shorter "bsy only" one?
3. Since both sounds complex, is there any other way getting my drive running, e.g. exchanging the PCB?
4. What does this dial up thing exactly do? Will I need an internet connection?
5. Can I come back to you and ask for help if I have any problems while doing this?

Thank you guys a lot, I am very happy about having found this place !!!
Cheers

[jaclaz]

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

1. do you think my problem is the busy or bsy error and it is worth trying the tutorial?

Cannot say, you should check yourself by connecting the hard disk "directly" (without the USB enclosure) to a desktop and see what the BIOS detects.

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

2. Which description should I follow? The one on the first page? or the shorter "bsy only" one?

THIS guide:
http://www.msfn.org/...seagate-drives/
http://www.mapleleaf...agatebrick.html

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

3. Since both sounds complex, is there any other way getting my drive running, e.g. exchanging the PCB?

See here:
http://www.msfn.org/...pcbs-on-720011/
APTLY titled:

Quote

DON'T EVEN think of swapping PCB's on 7200.11 (meaning DO NOT, like in DO NOT, DO NOT)

Also :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/There_ain't_no_such_thing_as_a_free_lunch

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

4. What does this dial up thing exactly do? Will I need an internet connection?

There is NOTHING connected with dial-up, EXCEPTION made for this :
http://www.msfn.org/...360#entry953360
You may want to re-read (actually READ for the first time) the mentioned guide.
An internet connection may be handy if you need help, but there is no actual *need* for one.

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

5. Can I come back to you and ask for help if I have any problems while doing this?

Sure you can .

jaclaz

[Huygens]

bat0u, on 06 December 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

1. do you think my problem is the busy or bsy error and it is worth trying the tutorial?
2. Which description should I follow? The one on the first page? or the shorter "bsy only" one?
3. Since both sounds complex, is there any other way getting my drive running, e.g. exchanging the PCB?
4. What does this dial up thing exactly do? Will I need an internet connection?
5. Can I come back to you and ask for help if I have any problems while doing this?

Answers, partly based on my experience and partly on what I've read:

1. If the HD doesn't show up in BIOS at boot time, there is a higher likelihood that the fault is the so called BSY error. If your data is interesting for you and you have no backup, you should try.

2. You should go the RS232 adapter route in my experience, since a clean USB-to-TTL adapter most often doesn't work with the HD. I did most of the gradius method, with the exception of isolating the HEAD contacts, see this link . Look for example up ebay MAX3232 adapters. Going the mobile phone cable route also seems to work for many people, when they get a working cable with active components (Window drivers too), but some cables just don't cut it. I don't know what you mean with "the-shorter-bsy-only-one". There probably are no short 15 minutes fixes for this problem.

3. Switching PCB is an absolute last resort and the only case it has seemed to work is when someone has had two identical HDs (one working fine, one having BSY error), switched PCBs and powered them up with BIOS (which is rumored to reset at least on of the PCB's firmware), then switched back the PCBs to their original HDs. It's _not_ recommended as it may put the PCB/HD in an undefined state from which there is no recovery.

4. No internet connection is needed for the actual unbricking. Read carefully everything you can find on it, beginning with the start of this thread, also helpful and important is this link and also this link (which are mentioned several times elsewhere). Read, read, read, puke, read, read.

5. Yes.

This post has been edited by Huygens: 07 December 2011 - 05:13 AM

[jaclaz]

Huygens, on 07 December 2011 - 05:09 AM, said:

3. Switching PCB is an absolute last resort and the only case it has seemed to work is when someone has had two identical HDs (one working fine, one having BSY error), switched PCBs and powered them up with BIOS (which is rumored to reset at least on of the PCB's firmware), then switched back the PCBs to their original HDs. It's _not_ recommended as it may put the PCB/HD in an undefined state from which there is no recovery.

NO.

Totally UNdocumented, UNreliable, DO NOT EVEN THINK of doing this!

We have a sticky EXACTLY to avoid this kind of senseless and risky attempts.

Doing a PCB swap REQUIRES exactly matching PCB's (much less easier to find than you might think) AND REQUIRES a ROM swap, which involves quite tricky de-soldering and re-soldering.

If you come here and ask what to do you simply CANNOT (meaning that you miss the NEEDED knowledge/experience involved) in doing this (and you will get it only after you have "fried" several hard disks or their PCB's making practice).

jaclaz

[bat0u]

Thanks a lot for your advice I did read all the links now and started gathering
the gear. Since I have a farly old laptop with a serail com port, I am in the lucky
position of not needing a USB adapter. But I couldnt find the nice little R232-TTL
Adaptor they have on sparkfun wich is linked several times here. But I found this one:

http://www.pollin.de...er_Bausatz.html

Sorry the link is in german but maybe you can tell from the look?
from the from the description, does roughly the same... will it work or is it something
completely different? Does anyone know where I can get the switcher in germany?
The ones from Hong Kong usually takes 4-5 weeks to be delivered to germany because
of the customs.

cheers

[Huygens]

jaclaz, on 07 December 2011 - 05:20 AM, said:

Doing a PCB swap REQUIRES exactly matching PCB's (much less easier to find than you might think) AND REQUIRES a ROM swap, which involves quite tricky de-soldering and re-soldering.

I'm not so sure. Seems some data recovery companies can use slightly different PCBs like in this clip.

There are also sold 7200.11 replacement PCBs for data recovery, from this site. And here is another clip for a DIY Seagate PCB drive swap (not 7200.11, but 7200.10 it seems).

[Huygens]

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

But I couldnt find the nice little R232-TTL Adaptor they have on sparkfun wich is linked several times here. But I found this one:

http://www.pollin.de...er_Bausatz.html

Sorry the link is in german but maybe you can tell from the look?
from the from the description, does roughly the same... will it work or is it something
completely different?

The ones from Hong Kong usually takes 4-5 weeks to be delivered to germany because
of the customs.

Hmm... Seems like your German adapter is fed with 5V, which may result in 5V output and you want 3.3V. I would try a plain 3.3V adapter like
this one from Portugal, which you can feed with anything from 3.0V - 3.6V (and most likely up to 4.5V) to get the correct output signals.

Delivery from Hong Kong to Europe doesn't take more than 2-3 weeks even with customs.

If the first adapter doesn't work you may want to try buy a second or third. Some adapters have been reported being duds (I have experienced it myself).

[jaclaz]

Huygens, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

I'm not so sure.

Well, I am.

Huygens, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

Seems some data recovery companies can use slightly different PCBs like in this clip.

The hard disk in the link seems an OLD (possibly a 40 or 80 GB IDE "Calypso" series.

I can teach you how to completely disassemble and re-assemble (with nothing but a set of spanners, screwdrivers and a few other tools included in the set you get with the bike) a 1938 BMW motorcycle (actually you could do this as well up to R65 or R70 series, in the '80's ).
Now you try doing the same with the S1000RR. .....

Huygens, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

There are also sold 7200.11 replacement PCBs for data recovery, from this site.

Problems reading?
Click on the 7200.11 board listed there:
http://www.hdd-parts.com/10110501.html

Quote

• Please make sure the board number matches your hard drive.
  
• For this model hard drives, every PCB board has unique firmware, only works on it's original hard drive. In order to swap PCB to fix the hard drive problem, firmware transfer is a must
  
• please fill the form and ship your board to us,we will copy your board firmware to a working board and ship back to you,
  
• if you want to do frimware transfer by yourself, please let us know

It is perfectly possible, with the APPROPRIATE TOOLS to read the data from a "dead board" (if the chip is "OK") and transfer it's contents on another identical board.
Only noone exception made from the pro's have this kind of specialized hardware, and the only "poor man's choice" is to de-solder the chip and transplant it on the identical board.
BTW, professionals have at their hands also tools like the PC-3000 that comprises both the hardware and software to (among a zillion other things on every hard disk ever made) fix the BSY or LBA errors on a 7200.11.
A PC-3000 should sell for something like US$ 3,000,00.
The info in this thread allows to fix the SPECIFIC Seagate stoopid thingy for less than US$ 30,00.
By swapping PCB's WHICH CANNOT BE DONE WITHOUT TRANSFERRING THE FIRMWARE on this SPECIFIC model, you risk to fry the PCB or the disk, or both, for good.
Please, DO NOT post info about something that you are not very sure about, and that NOT ONLY CANNOT WORK, but that can also make things worse.

Huygens, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

And here is another clip for a DIY Seagate PCB drive swap (not 7200.11, but 7200.10 it seems).

Cannot say specifically about the 7200.10.
IT WILL NOT WORK on a 7200.11 (check the title of this thread, please)

A video among the "related" on that youtube page:


jaclaz

[jaclaz]

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 03:58 AM, said:

But I found this one:

http://www.pollin.de...er_Bausatz.html

Sorry the link is in german but maybe you can tell from the look?
from the from the description, does roughly the same... will it work or is it something
completely different?

My very scarce German tells me that "5 V-TTL" translates in English to "5V-TTL" .
Compare with point #10 of read-me-first:
http://www.msfn.org/...-read-me-first/

You want 3.3V TTL, NOT 5V TTL.
These are seemingly suitable (BUT do check with the seller):
http://de.futureelec...32R-3V3-WE.aspx
http://parts.digikey...2r-3v3-pcb.html
http://www.tme.eu/de...tl-232r-33v-aj/
http://www.ebay.de/i...2-/270748929489
This one has several types listed:
http://www.unitronic...x.php?id=ftdi-r

• TTL-232R-3V3 (TTL-232R mit 3,3V IOs) good
  
• TTL-232R-AJ (Audio Jack connector, 5V IOs) bad
  
• TTL-232R-3V3-AJ (Audio Jack connector, 3.3V IOs) good
  
• TTL-232R-PCB (Populated PCB from the TTL-232R USB connector, 5V IOs) bad
  
• TTL-232R-3V3-PCB (Populated PCB from the TTL-232R-3V3 USB connector, 3V3 IOs) good
  
• TTL-232R-WE (No connector at serial end, 5V IOs) bad
  
• TTL-232R-3V3-WE (No connector at serial end, 3.3V IOs)good

This may help you (together with the read-me-first) understand the issue:
http://www.mikrocont...es/Pegelwandler

jaclaz

[bat0u]

To everyone from germany and all others of course
Hi, it is me again

while looking for a supplier for jumper cables, I came across this german based supplier
that also has the famous Pololu Deluxe RS232 - TLL converter recommended on "mapleleavemountains" blog
for 18€ wich is not cheap, but you will save on shipping costs and the jumper cables are only 2€ for pack of 10.

http://www.nodna.de/...apter--728.html

they also have this one from Droids:

http://www.nodna.de/...erter--865.html

it is only a little cheaper but it is also 3.0 - 5.5 V Input, do you think they would both work???
Thanks for your help

This post has been edited by bat0u: 08 December 2011 - 07:27 AM

[bat0u]

In the tutorial it sais:

Third, connect RX & TX cables from your RS-232 adapter, verify that all is correct, and then connect the power supply to Hard drive circuit board.

sorry for the question but does that mean, to connect the sata power plug (wide plug) to the drive and to a power supply?
And can I use a power adapter similar to the one on the image for doing this (powering the harddrive)?
It has this "D" shaped outlet that then through an adapter connects to the sata power inlet. And then an extra battery for
the RS232 - ttl adapter, or using the 5V + GND bits from that same adapter in the image???

Thank you

[jaclaz]

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 07:22 AM, said:

To everyone from germany and all others of course
Hi, it is me again

while looking for a supplier for jumper cables, I came across this german based supplier
that also has the famous Pololu Deluxe RS232 - TLL converter recommended on "mapleleavemountains" blog
for 18€ wich is not cheap, but you will save on shipping costs and the jumper cables are only 2€ for pack of 10.

http://www.nodna.de/...apter--728.html

they also have this one from Droids:

http://www.nodna.de/...erter--865.html

it is only a little cheaper but it is also 3.0 - 5.5 V Input, do you think they would both work???
Thanks for your help

The Pololu will obviously work though please DO READ the page about LC spikes when using "longish cables":
http://www.pololu.co...log/product/126
(this is always good advice: "keep it short" )

The "Droids" one really cannot say, being MAX3238:
http://www.maxim-ic....dex.mvp/id/1517
http://datasheets.ma.../ds/MAX3238.pdf
from the Datasheet it seems like it uses lower TTL level (which should be compatible).

For less than 1 € difference, I would get the one that is known to be working.

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 08:15 AM, said:

In the tutorial it sais:

Third, connect RX & TX cables from your RS-232 adapter, verify that all is correct, and then connect the power supply to Hard drive circuit board.

sorry for the question but does that mean, to connect the sata power plug (wide plug) to the drive and to a power supply?
And can I use a power adapter similar to the one on the image for doing this (powering the harddrive)?

Yes/yes.

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 08:15 AM, said:

It has this "D" shaped outlet that then through an adapter connects to the sata power inlet. And then an extra battery for
the RS232 - ttl adapter, or using the 5V + GND bits from that same adapter in the image???

Yes, if you review the guide, you will see this thingy:


which is the "equivalent" to the thingy called "5/12V StromKabel SATA" in your picture, BUT that has an additional (old "floppy" type) connector, from which CarterinCanada gets the power (0/+5 V)for the adapter, see here:


Since you don't have this second connector, you will need to solder two wires to the "5/12V StromKabel SATA" wires or use on of these thingies here:
http://www.msfn.org/.../page__st__3828
or peel off the insulation of the wires and connect to them *somehow* the two wires needed to power the Pololu (or whatever) adapter.

jaclaz

This post has been edited by jaclaz: 08 December 2011 - 10:30 AM

[bat0u]

Very good, thank you and only one more,
You said, I need 3V and not 5V although the rs232 - ttl adaptor is 3 - 5V correct?
In the batterypowerd version, it sais in the readme first, to make sure that the overall voltage should
be no more than 3.3 V ... please correct me if i am wrong. If I go with this power adapter (the one on
the image in my previous post) this will wor just like using a molex connector from a PC power supply
right? But doesn't this thing produce a 5V outcome? that is what it sais on my power adapter, too
(besides the 12V which of course i will NOT use as I have read ) There is no orange cable on the "5/12V StromKabel SATA",
so no 3.3V. Should i go with the batteries or rather with the adapter and molex?

TY

This post has been edited by bat0u: 08 December 2011 - 11:14 AM

[jaclaz]

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 11:13 AM, said:

In the batterypowerd version, it sais in the readme first, to make sure that the overall voltage should
be no more than 3.3 V

NO, it does NOT .
What the readme says is (I KNOW, as I have actually written it ):

Quote

Generally speaking supplying 0V and +5V will work.
Most adapters will work with as low as 0V and +3V.
A single 3V battery or two common 1.5V may do in the latter, but ONLY if they are FULLY CHARGED/NEW, if they fall below 2.9 or 2.8 V it simply won't work.

A good idea is to use 3 or 4 rechargeable 1.2V batteries (again FULLY operational/charged):
3x1.2=3.6V
4x1.2=4.8V

Another good idea if you have a Desktop PC is to get the power from it's cables:
Black=0V
Orange= 3.3V
Red= 5V


A known exception is this specific board:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/449
that switches output levels autosensing the voltage you power it with, thus you need for this a voltage around 3 V for this to work properly.

bat0u, on 08 December 2011 - 11:13 AM, said:

... please correct me if i am wrong. If I go with this power adapter (the one on
the image in my previous post) this will wor just like using a molex connector from a PC power supply
right? But doesn't this thing produce a 5V outcome? that is what it sais on my power adapter, too
(besides the 12V which of course i will NOT use as I have read ) There is no orange cable on the "5/12V StromKabel SATA",
so no 3.3V. Should i go with the batteries or rather with the adapter and molex?

You asked for it, you are wrong!

If you use the SAME adapter CarterinCanada used, that specific adapter is powered at 5 V AND works at 3.3 V TLL level.
If you use the SAME specific adapter used in first post of this thread (Sparkfun SMD shifter) listed in the read-me-first as EXCEPTION, that will output 3.3 V TTL level (good) IF powered at 3.3V BUT 5V TLL level (bad) IF powered at 5V.
A number of other adapters should be powered at 3.3V (actually as said anything *around* 3V will do) in order to produce 3.3V TLL levels.
Another number of other adapters should be powered at 5V (actually these may work as well with anything *around* or above 3V will do) in order to produce 3.3V TLL levels.
Another number of other adapters should be powered at 5V (actually these will require anything *around* 5V or exactly 5V) in order to produce 3.3V TLL levels.

You have to understand that one thing is the power Voltage Vcc and another is the Logic Level (go back to read-me-first and re-read it).
Particularly, re-read pont #6 AND ALL the links posted under:

Quote

You can skip the following links if you trust my word for the above:

It is the same thing as if you ask which fuel goes in *a* car.

A normal gasoline (US) car will need petrol (in the UK) or Benzin in Gemany.
A Diesel car will need Diesel fuel.
But if you mounted on your car a jet turbine you will need probably Aviation kerosene or Flugbenzin (which is NOT the same thing).

If you have an adapter that is supposed to be powered at 5V in order to provide a 3.3V TTL level, you power it at 5V, if you have an adapter that is supposed to be powered at 3.3V in order to provide a 3.3V TTL level, you power it at 3.3V.

If you find/build an adapter supposed to be powered at 9.83V in order to provide a 3.3V TTL level, you power it at EXACTLY 9.83V.....

jaclaz

[eptan]

somebody here to help,a question...
who use the dku-2 work in fine or failed?
does the dku-2 can work on it?
how should i know which rx and tx?
sorry for my bad english!