WD - PCB replacement + pictures

[CrazyDoctor]

Hi All,

I have this hard drive

http://img168.imageshack.us/i/wd1p.jpg/

http://img687.imageshack.us/i/wd2l.jpg/

On the green PCB two of the chips are brunt (which easily can be seen as burnt).

I want to buy from ebay one of those of hard drives in order to replace the pcb.

What is the correct one?

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=WD5000AAKS-00YGA0&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=WD5000AAKS&_osacat=0&bkBtn=

I think that this is the best match: (not sure)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-Digital-WD5000AAKS-00YGA0-500Gb-SATA-DBRNHT2AAN_W0QQitemZ350332294797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item51916e968d

Many Thanks!

[jaclaz]

That one has a different DCM:

http://www.harddrive-repair.com/hard-drive-parts.html

Yours is DHNNNT2AHN

The one you linked to is DBRNHT2AAN:

DCM: DBRNHT2AAN

PCB: 2061-701444-700 AD - on the barcode sticker

2060-701444-004 Rev. A on the PCB

There is contrasting info on the DCM last few (3 or 5) digits needing to be the same, but this should apply only for a head swap:

http://forum.hddguru.com/western-digital-pcb-swap-rule-t8951-20.html

Your PCB is 2061-701444-700 AD, so it is matching.

jaclaz

[CrazyDoctor]

Hi jaclaz,

Many thanks for the informative answer!

So to be sure, even though there are few differences with the numbers of this hard drive, for a pcb swap, this item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-Digital-WD5000AAKS-00YGA0-500Gb-SATA-DBRNHT2AAN_W0QQitemZ350332294797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item51916e968d

should be a good mutch for my hard drive?

by the way, do you know any other cheaper way to get this pcb?

Best Regards,

[jaclaz]

Hi jaclaz,

Many thanks for the informative answer!

So to be sure, even though there are few differences with the numbers of this hard drive, for a pcb swap, this item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-Digital-WD5000AAKS-00YGA0-500Gb-SATA-DBRNHT2AAN_W0QQitemZ350332294797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item51916e968d

should be a good mutch for my hard drive?

This is what I posted, yes:

Your PCB is 2061-701444-700 AD, so it is matching.

If the question is "will the PCB swap work", the answer is "noone can say".

by the way, do you know any other cheaper way to get this pcb?

Define "cheaper", and add to your evaluation "fast", "accurate", then we'll talk about the matter.

As I see it, that price is an awful lot of money for that hard disk, but you should actually kneel down and kiss the ground where the seller has walked , as very few people sell hard disks on e-bay giving such a number of details.

You are payng not so much the HD but the time of the guy to make a proper ad, compare with buying a lot of undescribed HD's for a few bucks to find that they are not the right one or taking several days of correspondence with the seller to make sure it is actually the right PCB.

What these guys do is to buy lots of HD's then catalog each one properly.

You can do the same, you may save some dollars, but if you are dealing with data recovery, time is one of the key factors.

Following are another few chaps that sells PCB's:

http://www.ioffer.com/selling/hddsolutions

http://stores.ebay.com/Softcom

http://stores.ebay.com/Hard-Drive-Parts-Specialist

http://stores.ebay.com/A-Better-Way-Computer-Recycling

(just first four results of a search - no intention whatsoever to promote any of them with which I never had any contact)

Hint :

search on e-bay for "PCB Western Digital" (without quotes)

jaclaz

Edited March 31, 2010 by jaclaz

[submix8c]

re - your other "cross-post"...

I doubt you'll be able to replace just the "burnt components" as

1 - you need to know specifically what they are (and yours are FUBAR!)

2 - you would need to find a supplier after you KNOW (good luck finding them)

3 - you would have to de-solder/re-solder (good luck with that)

If you have valuable data on that HDD, you'll probably have to either -

1 - follow jaclaz' advice (get the exact PCB replacement)

2 - send it to a "recovery" and/or "repair" company

Other than that, there's no other (known) solution (trust me, I'm a Certified Electronics Technician) sans "Magic Wand".

HTH

edit (from "wdc.com") -

Model: WD5000AAKS. Price: US$64.99 In stock

So, unless data, just buy another. If data, get the correct PCB and carefully "swap" it. Edited March 31, 2010 by submix8c

[VideoRipper]

Hi CD

I'm amazed how you're trying to repair all kinds of HDD-PCB, without (by the looks of it)

having any electronics background.

Don't get me wrong, I always support (other) hobbyist, but I wonder whether you would be

able to fix it, if you don't even know that mentioned parts are an SMD resistor and diode.

Because of the images being out of focus, it's impossible to see what the exact values are

that are needed, but you can get both parts easilly at any electronics (web) parts-store,

like Farnell, DigiKey, Conrad and many others.

Apart from that, you always have to ask yourself: how did a certain part blew up itself?

Electronic parts never blow up without a reason (like, for instance, wear and tear), so

there are great chances that when you replace a part, it will blow out again as soon as

you apply power to the repaired device in question.

...AND: those SMD components are visibly defective: you'll never know what else has been

blown up (internally) that doesn't show

Also, don't forget most of the time it's not worth the time and money to repair something

nowadays, unless it's something of high value or, in this case, valuable data has to be

recovered from a drive.

Just my 2 €-cents.

Greetz,

Peter.

PS... and thanks to Tripredacus for closing that dupe topic while I was replying

Edited March 31, 2010 by VideoRipper

[jaclaz]

3 - you would have to de-solder/re-solder (good luck with that)

.....

Other than that, there's no other (known) solution (trust me, I'm a Certified Electronics Technician) sans "Magic Wand".

Now, now, comeon , to de-solder and re-solder a SMD you don't need to be an open heart surgeon , nor to be Certified by anybody, you need some specific tools and a little experience.

Actually CrazyDoctor appears to miss both latter requisites right now, but let us not put him too down...

Also, don't forget most of the time it's not worth the time and money to repair something

nowadays, unless it's something of high value or, in this case, valuable data has to be

recovered from a drive.

You forget TWO possible reasons :

• FUN
  
• the satisfaction of being able to do what all other told it was impossible
  

jaclaz

[VideoRipper]

You forget TWO possible reasons :

• FUN
  
• the satisfaction of being able to do what all other told it was impossible

Sorry... I forgot to mention those two, but you're absolutely right!

[jaclaz]

...and don't forget....

jaclaz

[Tripredacus]

You forget TWO possible reasons :

• FUN
  
• the satisfaction of being able to do what all other told it was impossible

Sorry... I forgot to mention those two, but you're absolutely right!

You are also forgetting about the excitement and anxiety you feel when you turn your newly "fixed" or "modified" thing on for the first time. Remember all those times you hit the button and then dive under the table, only to have nothing happen? What a rush! Helpful tip: Just make sure someone else is there in case something goes wrong. As we say at work "Man the fire extinguisher!"

[jaclaz]

Remember all those times you hit the button and then dive under the table, only to have nothing happen?

That's what I use my custom made sticks for (besides using them to NOT touch Vista )

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=125258&st=12

And the "real" trick is to first dive under the table and THEN hit the button.

jaclaz

Edited March 31, 2010 by jaclaz

[submix8c]

Well, I wasn't "putting anyone down". The "good luck with that" really meant "jeez, those are small parts!" and yes, I should know (being an E.T. Extra-Terrestrial from Terra and all) it can get frustrating.

In addition, if they are so toasty you can't read the values, well you'll need schematics; so it would be much easier to get a complete PCB. Lots of fun right there...

[CrazyDoctor]

Hi guys,

Many thanks for the informative and helpful answers!

Keep help and give a hand to people who is in trouble

I've got this pcb which belongs to a different HD model:

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/756/65367522.jpg

Can I take the SMD resistor and diode from that one and replace with the burnt parts?

Edited April 1, 2010 by CrazyDoctor

[jaclaz]

Can I take the SMD resistor and diode from that one and replace with the burnt parts?

Most probably yes, but it's difficult to say.

Unless I am mistaken, you have posted "Side B" of the burned PCB and "Side A" of the "replacement one".

Since my crystal ball is again in the shop for tuning , I have to use I-CHING, that tell me:

I-Ching Hexagram 31

The Judgement

Influence. Success. Perseverance furthers. To take a maiden to wife brings good fortune.

The weak element is above, the strong below; hence their powers attract each other, in your case the weak element is the PCB and the strong one is the HD, the general meaning is that you are doomed to success, but the road to reach it will not be easy.

jaclaz

Edited April 1, 2010 by jaclaz

[VideoRipper]

It looks like R67 on that PCB is a 0 Ohm resistor, apparently doubling as some sort

of fuse in this design (that's probably why it was blown up on that other PCB)

The description on D3 is AE83A (if I see correctly) and is probably a Schottky diode to enable

the use of the "Staggered spinup"/"Activity"-pin on the SATA-power connector, which on most

systems isn't even used (although I can't seem to find its datasheet at the moment).

I don't think replacing these two parts will get the drive working again; if you wish you could even

fix a workaround by forcing the "Staggered spinup"-piece of the schematic to ground (I guess).

But it's hard to tell without having the PCB (or its schematics) in my own hands, so I'm also

guessing, just like Jaclaz does

Good luck,

Peter,