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Seagate ST3500418AS 0LBA

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9 replies to this topic

#1
thebaz

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Hi all,
First post. I have read a large chunk of the 7200.11 solution thread and although I am not sure that it has helped me, I would like to show my appreciation for those that have put so much effort into helping others.
Now to my problem. I have a 4 500gb Barracuda drives and have had two of the St3500320 drives fail. Seagate have replaced them under warranty, buy of course that is small consolation for the grief of losing data.
I wish I had known about the 7200.11 fix 18 months ago.
I now have a 500gb ST3500418AS that is showing zero capacity. It is detected in bios and disk manager in win7, but does not show up as a drive letter. The drive is partitioned into 3 partitions, (four if you include the one for win7 100mb), and I have been using the drive as a backup for data rather than main boot drive. The drive fails all Seatools tests.
My question is could the drive have the same problem as the 7200.11 series drive and respond to the same solution? Also, did it make any difference the 7200.11 fix if the drive was partitioned? I also saw a video on you-tube, , where the guy had a blown diode and removed it to retrieve his data.
I am not sure why he didn't replace the diode or how he knew that that was the problem, so I am very cautious about trying that fix.
I hope someone can help, and thanks for the great resource.

Baz


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#2
jaclaz

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The video *should* be about removing a TVS diode. :unsure:

Basically HD boards have two main DC "rails", a 5V and a 12V one.
In order to protect the board components from overvoltage, spikes, surges or whatever, each of these are protected by a TVS diode.
This diodes are sensible to some of these and when "triggered" by such an event they simply "blow" shorting the + of the rail to ground.
At this point most PSU's protections will shut down power. (a non protected PSU - like the power adapters of most external enclosure use - will simply blow instead :ph34r:)

It is intended as a form of protection for the most delicate components of the HD, once the diode is shorted, besides replacing it with a new one you can just remove it, this will aloow "normal operation" (but you won't have anymore protection from spikes/sourges/etc.)

There isn't AFAIK a "known/tested/retested" solution for the 7200.12, but there is however this Russian page:
http://hddhelp.com.ua/7200-12.htm
via google translate is quite readable.

A procedure very similar to that for the 7200.11 is used.

jaclaz

#3
thebaz

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Thanks for the reply,
is the diode likely to be the cause or do you think it may be the same as the 7200.11 problem?
Can you accurately check the diode on the board and if I remove it will it void the warranty?

#4
BlouBul

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is the diode likely to be the cause or do you think it may be the same as the 7200.11 problem?


This diodes are sensible to some of these and when "triggered" by such an event they simply "blow" shorting the + of the rail to ground.
At this point most PSU's protections will shut down power. (a non protected PSU - like the power adapters of most external enclosure use - will simply blow instead :ph34r:)


I now have a 500gb ST3500418AS that is showing zero capacity.

The symptoms resembles 0LBA and NOT a blown diode.


if I remove it will it void the warranty?

Most probably...
Jack of all trades, master of none, though ofttimes better than master of one.

#5
jaclaz

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Sure :), in thebaz's case there is NO WAY it can be the TVS diode, but he asked about the video, which is COMPLETELY UNRELATED to the problem he is experiencing, and I provided some explanation about the latter.

Three separate questions asked/points raised:
  • My question is could the drive have the same problem as the 7200.11 series drive and respond to the same solution?
  • Also, did it make any difference the 7200.11 fix if the drive was partitioned?
  • I also saw a video on you-tube, , where the guy had a blown diode and removed it to retrieve his data.
    I am not sure why he didn't replace the diode or how he knew that that was the problem, so I am very cautious about trying that fix.
    I hope someone can help, and thanks for the great resource.

Three replies:
  • Maybe, nothing sure about it, given link to possible solution UNVERIFIED/UNCONFIRMED.
  • No.
  • Explanation given (about what the guy did and why it worked for him in his case.)

jaclaz

#6
thebaz

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Thanks for the replys.
I should have paid more attention to that context of that video, but I was hopeful for an easy fix :)
I may give the 7200.11 fix a try, have I got anything to lose by giving it a shot?

Baz

#7
jaclaz

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I may give the 7200.11 fix a try, have I got anything to lose by giving it a shot?

Using the EXACT procedure for the 7200.11 is POINTLESS.
You have a 7200.12 drive.
They are DIFFERENT.
Trying using the given procedure for the 7200.12 , but as said I have NO way to know if it is possible that it works on your drive.

And obviously you risk something by doing something that is UNTESTED.

jaclaz

#8
thebaz

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I have searched pretty widely for people who have tried the same fix as the 7200.11 on the 7200.12 and have found the odd post that state that the same procedure works, but I am not 100% convinced that the testimony is credible.
Is it worth connecting the drive and see what happens? I have already opened a case with Seagate for warranty replacement but I would like to access the data if possible.
Would one of these cables work?
http://www.ebay.com....=item3f0911bd18
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5ad940db

Baz

Edited by thebaz, 12 May 2011 - 06:53 PM.


#9
dencorso

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Donator

jaclaz already pointed you to the correct solution:

There isn't AFAIK a "known/tested/retested" solution for the 7200.12, but there is however this Russian page: http://hddhelp.com.ua/7200-12.htm via google translate is quite readable.

Whether you'll use it or not is up to you, and you alone (and if you do, you'll do it on your sole responsibility, not because any of us said so!).

#10
jaclaz

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Would one of these cables work?
http://www.ebay.com....=item3f0911bd18
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5ad940db

Cannot say, there are NO specs on those pages, you want a "3.3V" TTL cable and NOT a "5 V" one, read, AGAIN, READ ME FIRST:
http://www.msfn.org/...-read-me-first/
point #10
AND FGA'S:
http://www.msfn.org/...-720011-drives/
point #6

BUT, the PL2303 series of chips appear to be 3.3V:
http://www.msfn.org/.../page__st__3040
ask the seller to confirm it is 3.3 and NOT 5 V

jaclaz




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