Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Phaenius

Capped (clipped, whatever) sound with Audigy sound card

215 posts in this topic

Hair dryers have easy to pull filters. They do not weight 25 kg, like a desktop computer. As for console or tv, opening the case will void warranty. If anyone manages to open the case of my computer monitor (Philips 220CW), I'll give him the Nobel prize. I tried many times without success. No screws, nothing.

And by the way, I had a tv with tubes, it worked for 30 years. It had so much dust inside, you couldn't even see the tubes. But it worked. And the tubes were hot of course.

when any of those items begin having any problems, like your computer is now

My computer is not having problems. My sound card is having problems. A tone def ear won't even notice. Apart from that, everything is working fine.

Edited by Phaenius
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As an update, I start noticing occasional clicks when playing music. Could this be direct current escaping filtering, or a problem with capacitors in general ? I understood capacitors are widely used as filters in audio equipment.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 - use EQ only at END of chain, either turn OFF others (preferably) or set FLAT!

2 - Did it occur to you that Speakers will distort/click if OVERDRIVEN? (did you notice the Power/WATTS examples I gave?)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Speakers don't distort, I am not that dumb to raise volume beyond reasonable acceptance. Also, the sound is so bad and lacking any consistence, I am using all the EQ I can get to get a decent one. Sadly, I think there is something damaged in the card, but I would love to know what before putting to RIP. I would also love to know what caused this in the first place, to avoid happening again. I will clean the board when I'll have the time (and courage to lift the case), but I am not hoping for much improvement (if any). But I would like to thank everyone for advice once again.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You missed every single point I've given.

DO NOT use EQ except at the end of the chain. FLAT EQ or OFF EXCEPT the Last In Chain - CUT the Lows/Highs and FLAT the Middle at the END EQ.

DO NOT run the Gains HIGH at the FRONT of the chain. Start LOW at the Front and work up at EACH POINT IN THE CHAIN.

Speakers WILL Clip/Overdrive due to CHANGES at ANY point in the Chain, REGARDLESS of the "volume knob" on the Box. The FRONT Volumes WILL DISTORT NEXT IN CHAIN! Boosted Lows on the FRONT WILL CHANGE THE LEVEL ON THE FRONT!

TRUST me on this! AGAIN, Mixers have SEVERAL points that can go wrong. If I BOOST the Level on the (e.g.) Kick Drum, it WILL Overdrive the (e.g.) Master Out and CAUSE DISTORTION! If I BOOST the LOW on the Kick it RAISES THE LEVEL (the Frequency Range at which Kick is at) of the GAIN (input) and DISTORTS. THE SAME CONCEPT APPLIES!!!

Hint - RAISE the VOLUME at any given point in the chain and tell me what happens. RAISE the LOWS at an given point and tell me what happens. IN PARTICULAR do this at the FRONT of the chain and tell me what happens!

Download this and look it over

http://www.offbeat.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/eq-chart.pdf

Also look at this and this Distortion Wiki and this Clip Wiki. Here's a couple of TIPS that specifically tell what the effects of boosting BOTTOM will do -

http://abletonlife.com/how-to-control-the-low-end-in-your-mix-in-ableton

(specifically references PREAMPS, which is what the FRONT of the chain is)

http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_amps/bass_preamp_guide_1.html

If you have two inputs marked passive and active, plug your active bass into the active input, not the passive input. Otherwise your signal may be too loud and could clip, or distort. It’s not the good kind of distortion, either.
ANOTHER one that clearly states the effects of BassBoost -

So you set your gain how it should be. All is good. Then you turn up the bass boost. Now whenever you play a note at the bass boost frequency - it clips. But it's only at that frequency.

REALLY, you just don't get it. GAIN and FREQUENCY (boosting any give one is... GAIN for THAT one only) will cause CLIP/DISTORTION - PERIOD! In particular, its the PRE's that cause it, the POST's just COMPOUND it!

NOTICE! I have found that WinAmp has an EQ Plugin. You ALSO say that the "MS Sound" ALSO has an EQ (probably for THAT SOUND CARD). - REMOVE THE WinAmp PLUGIN and tell me what happens. ;)

I ALSO notice you have both Analog AND Digital into your ACTIVE speakers - SURELY you don't have BOTH activated at ONCE!!!

THIS is what you have -

GAIN(how many "faders")->EQ->GAIN(how many "faders")->EQ->PwrSpkr(GAIN)

Your GAIN is too HIGH somewhere in the FRONT!!!!

Edited by submix8c
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DO NOT use EQ except at the end of the chain. FLAT EQ or OFF EXCEPT the Last In Chain - CUT the Lows/Highs and FLAT the Middle at the END EQ.

i CAN"T ! It sounds horrible without. You are right on a correct chain, where everything is running ok.

DO NOT run the Gains HIGH at the FRONT of the chain. Start LOW at the Front and work up at EACH POINT IN THE CHAIN.

What does GAIN mean ? What is FRONT of the chain ? Do you mean I should set the volume low starting from the beginning and raise it as it approaches final amplification ?

Speakers WILL Clip/Overdrive due to CHANGES at ANY point in the Chain, REGARDLESS of the "volume knob" on the Box. The FRONT Volumes WILL DISTORT NEXT IN CHAIN! Boosted Lows on the FRONT WILL CHANGE THE LEVEL ON THE FRONT!

TRUST me on this! AGAIN, Mixers have SEVERAL points that can go wrong. If I BOOST the Level on the (e.g.) Kick Drum, it WILL Overdrive the (e.g.) Master Out and CAUSE DISTORTION! If I BOOST the LOW on the Kick it RAISES THE LEVEL (the Frequency Range at which Kick is at) of the GAIN (input) and DISTORTS. THE SAME CONCEPT APPLIES!!!

Hint - RAISE the VOLUME at any given point in the chain and tell me what happens. RAISE the LOWS at an given point and tell me what happens. IN PARTICULAR do this at the FRONT of the chain and tell me what happens!

I am not stupid. I know the basics, I know what are you saying. But I do believe speakers are at fault and amplifier is clipping due to a faulty circuit (possible some chip that controls the digital volume). As I said, it doesn't manifest on AV receiver, but I am reluctant to use it, because it's more expensive and I'm afraid not to break it, if sound card is defective.

Here the manufacturers have their own fault, they induced too many volume options in the chain and furthermore, they didn't quite respect some basics. I mean, a line out is a line out, roughly at 1 Vcc / 500 KHz (or so). How can you output phones, amplified speakers and even normal amplifiers with high input impedance and low voltage from the same 3.5 jack for instance ? Again, how can you set the volume on digital output ? You should only have ONE volume, at the end of the chain, the rest should have only a preamp volume. But here, there are several blocks that amplifies each other, without much restriction.

I will read the second part of your post and will reply later. I think I get it. I believe you don't get it what I am trying to say. I am not a total moron. But I believe sound card, NO MATTER WHAT I DO OR SET, it's faulty. All the enhancements (EQ's, filters, so on) can enhance sound, but it cannot clean much if this is faulty in the first place. So, at this moment we have 2 situations:

1. Sound card is faulty, in which case you can't do much. (maybe cleaning will help to some extend, but I doubt it)

2. Sound card is wrongly set or the audio chain is badly setup. This is questionable, since the same chain worked before, but sound degraded in time.

I will check the links later. I do appreciate the time trying to help. Thanks.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small update (still haven't read the links): I remember someone here telling me to set the Winamp level to maximum and everything else to maximum and working only with the end volume. This kinda contradicts your theory, submix8c. You said to progressively raise the volume towards the end of the chain.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a "Theory" - fact (if you read the links). "Chain" - I gave you an example (from your own chart) -

A->gazintaB->gazintaC->(etc). / A=Front Of Chain (obviously).

If it has "degraded over time" then there is a PHYSICAL failure. Even P.A. Power Amps eventually fail - an expensive proposition for an Engineer and his own equipment. SOMETIMES a good "clean" will fix it, but is a component is failing, then there's no other recourse.

And we DON'T "double-overall-EQ" at all, but ONLY at the Channel (a SINGLE INSTRUMENT) and EITHER the Submasters (GROUPS of Instruments/Channels) on Inserts OR the Final Stage (JUST BEFORE THE AMPLIFIERS, but BEFORE THE CROSSOVER). That's why I SUGGESTED removing the WinAmp EQ plugin (you can ALWAYS put it back - it's an "extra"). The whole fact of the matter is that APPARENTLY your Sound Card has "goodies", including an EQ. Heck, even Windows Media Player has an EQ built in - my sound card does NOT have the "goodies" - only Dolby (basically a kind of Crossover) for LF/RF+LR/RR+CTR+SUB and I EQ ONLY ONCE into Powered Speakers (has Base/Treble Tone knobs I set CENTERED, i.e. "FLAT").

Double-EQ defeats the purpose and Gain Structure DOES dictate "a little Gain on the front without a blinking red clip light" (this is the initial Signal) fed into ANOTHER piece of the chain "pushed up until the signal is "amplified" (it's allowed to be BELOW zero) which is fed into the NEXT piece (etc etc) until AT THE SPEAKERS (the MASTER Volume/GAIN).

If you want to "argue" with a Pro Engineer, find another. I've said my say and am absolutely correct. Read the links to see if I'm wrong. ;) Seriously, I've run sound for Hall Of Famer's - take the education or not, it's up to you.

P.S. if you STILL don't believe me, Google

gain structure guide

and see what you come up with. :w00t:

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look, I don't know where do you have the idea of me fighting or arguing with you. This is not a debate, this is me trying to figure out what is wrong with my components. It's not a game of who knows more. I have a pretty good idea about basics in sound, of course I am not an sound engineer, but at a common user level, I have a pretty good idea. Point me where I was arguing with you. Several times I said I am not contesting, debating or arguing and I thanked all for suggestions or advice.

Returning to my problem, I am NOT double EQ-ing. I said it countless times, Winamp EQ is flat, preamp at 0. I don't have EQ or bass/trebble on my active speakers, so I am using EQ from sound card mixer. It's in the middle of the chain, but it's the farthest down the chain. And I am not using insane levels, just to add some "taste" to otherwise dull sound, because as it's now, it's sounding like coming from a bucket.

You are talking about professional mixers and charts and soever. I am merely using a software 10 band graphical EQ. So, all those charts and professional stats are fine tuning. I said it, if you have a basic sound that sounds bad, distorted, you can't do much with EQs, filters and so on. Not at least at amateur level. That's what I am trying to say. If you put a perfectly working card in a computer and connecting to a good equipment, but leaving everything at default, no EQ, no enhancements, no bass-treble, no filters, etc., it may sound dull and lacking a certain feel of power or touch, but it won't sound bad or distorted. In my case, it kinda does.

So again, since you accused me of not listening:

1. I am NOT NOT NOT NOT using Winamp's EQ.

2. I understood the principle on non double EQ-uing. I am using now ONLY as a last resort, otherwise I would have used the correct path.

3. I understood the principle of low and high frequencies and the fact that low ones consumes more power, that can drain from other. But if I set the volume too high, it will most likely distort, not oscillate like I was playing with the amplifier volume.

4. I would love to know how to see the signal on an oscilloscope, but sadly, I don't know how to even operate one. I downloaded some software oscilloscopes and I do have 2 sound cards, but again, I don't know how to use the program. To technical for me.

About setting the EQ. You suggest me lowering the low and high frequencies ? Because I am doing the exact opposite now. Without this, music sounds horrible.

Again, tell me where I am going wrong, because I have the feeling you believe I am doing the settings wrong and I don't know where. So, what am I doing wrong, in your opinion ? Please use basic terms and settings I have, not professional ones, in other words, something that I CAN do with my equipment.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What you CAN do, is clean it. :) Look, I know you are resisting doing this with all your heart. I know it will be a pain, and I know that the odds on dirt on the board causing your problems are very, very, very, very small. BUT, while cleaning the board look at it very, very carefully to see if you see corrosion on any board or cable connectors, any evidence of failed parts on the board such as anything loose, blackened areas, wires or parts touching something that they shouldn't and causing a short, etc, etc. Make sure while reconnecting everything that all connections are clean and snug. These kinds of potential problems that you might find while cleaning could be what is causing your sound issues.

Assuming you find nothing out of whack, lets try to figure out where your problems might be by looking at all the pieces of the chain starting with the software. Temporarily, use something other than Winamp. I know, again astronomical odds that that is the problem, but it won't cost you anything to try something else and you can do it quickly and then get rid of the other software if it doesn't prove anything. In the hardware chain you have the sound card, the sound card front panel, the active speakers, the receiver, and the passive speakers. You say using the receiver with the passive speakers sound fine with no problems whatsoever, correct? But using the the active speakers have a problem no matter whether they are driven by the jack on the sound card or the digital coax from the sound card front panel, correct? Sound bad in the same way no matter which connector you use, jack or coax? If so it would seem the problem is with the active speakers and it has nothing to do with the sound card. You can try to prove that by connecting the active speakers to another system, ( a friend's perhaps? ), or by borrowing another set of active speakers, ( from that same friend? ), and see if the problem follows the speakers. Or try to borrow another sound card, it doesn't have to have a front panel, and see if you still have problems using the same computer, software, and active speakers. If there is still a problem then that eliminates the sound card as the source, if there is now no problem then it kind of points to something in the sound card. It's just a process of elimination. If the problem always follows your current active speakers, then assume that that's your problem and either get new active speakers or use the receiver and passive speakers and don't worry about it.

Bottom line, to do much more analysis to find out what your problem is you are going to probably have to pull that case out away from your bed.

Regardless of what you find to be the problem, CLEAN your system anyway and follow submix8c's suggestions of adjusting gain (amplification) and EQ in as few a number of stages as possible and as close to the speakers as possible in order to minimize the possibility of clipping and distortion. Good luck and I'll be curious as to where you find the problem to be.

Cheers and Regards

Edited by bphlpt
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bphlpt, you do make good points. Yes, I am fighting cleaning the card, although, yes, I am aware that dust cannot be a friend, but rather a foe. I am resisting taking out the card (although, I will do it these days for sure), because computer is heavy, mounted in a tight space and don't have much space to take every piece apart. You can be sure when I do this, it won't be just the sound card, I will put out everything and clean it (with the exception of processor - I am afraid not to break a pin, those must be ultra-super molded by now due to heat and the power supply, which is sealed and it's 4 months old anyway). Another thing I am reluctant to clean the computer is the [cough cough] dust I will inhale and, no matter how careful I will be, will deposit everywhere inside the room). But yes, I will [big sigh] clean the card. On this occasion, I will replace the factory ribbon, with a twisted, shielded, cable, can't hurt. Also, I will put an extra power line to the card (not needed, but can't hurt, I think). Card has already a plug. Will try to switch the card to another PCI slot, maybe it'll help. At the moment, it's close to a HDD controller. There aren't many spaces left, it's either close to the HDD controller or close to the video card. **** the screwless computer cases. While the case is ultra heavy and thus providing a good ground, lack of a screw fixing the boards to the case, sure doesn't help. Those cases are easy to work with, but from an electrical point of view, may not look the best solution. Will see if I can fix the boards with some screws. As you pointed out, all those are long shots, but it can help.

Of course I tried other software players. Results are partial similar, partial different, I believe it's not much the programs, most are merely shells, what counting are codecs, filters, and so on. But I tried VLC, which has it's own codecs and filters. So, I can't give you a clear yes or no on this question. Let's say results are more similar.

About the chain. Of course I am not using receiver + speakers simultaneously with active speakers. Now I am using the active speakers, those are cheaper than receiver + passive speakers, so it won't hurt so much if, by some incorrect usage or defect, sound card will damage it. But yes, you are right, as I said before, it sounds much better with receiver + speakers. I think receiver, with it's settings (plus the 5 speakers with 3 ways on each column) somehow "repairs" the sound somehow, in the fact that flaws are not so distinctive noticeable. But I don't use it, since I do believe there is something wrong with the card and I'm afraid to not damage receiver + speakers. Why do I say it could be something wrong with the card ? Because, I will simplify more the chain, by taking out even the active speakers from the chain and leaving the shortest possible chain, that is winamp, sound card (outputing from the back) and headphones. Headphones cannot clearly distort sound to such extend, there are reasonably good headphones (Sennheiser HD595), who sound good connected to receiver. Well, connected at the rear, sound is bad, it's metallic and like coming out of a bucket. Trying to enhance the sound with card's "goodies" (like sumbix8c said) improves the quality a bit, but not that much. I mean, if sound is outputted wrong, you can't do much. Those goodies can't turn a frog into a prince by magic.

So, at the moment, I will leave the active speakers' problem alone, trying to isolate a potential problem with the sound card. I believe there are actually 2 problems, one in the active speakers (there are cheap and other people complained about the model, not necessarily my problem, but in general) and one in the card. I read many reviews and (I believe some unbiased ones), plus impressions from users and people are generally pleased with my sound card model. And I was up to some time ago. At the moment, I don't have a 3.5 mm jack - RCA adapter, to plug active speakers at the back and using coaxial output at the back, so I am only connecting the speakers on coaxial via the front panel only (it has a RCA socket). I can only connect the active speakers to the back of the sound card, via analogue output, but this adds an additional DAC to the chain. Of course, it will bypass the active speakers DAC.

I don't have a way of testing the sound card onto another system, unfortunately. I can only assume it will manifest the same symptoms. It worked in my system before. As for a second sound card, I do have the on-board sound card, who is by definition a cheap card, so you can't ask much of it. But the "capping" is much reduced when connected to active speakers. It's seem to be a totally tangled situation, that's why I try to simplify it.

You can bet I did turned this issue on all possible faces. After all, I am living with it and it hurts me to not being able to listen to music properly. I installed sound card's drivers, Windows generic and Daniel K's modified drivers. Without effect. They sound pretty much the same. Just some "goodies" added here and there.

No one is more curious than me in finding the problem. Thanks for the hints. Bottom line is, do you suggest amplifying the signal progressively working towards the end of the chain ? Because now, the Winamp internal volume is at 75%. If I set lower and try to raise the volume from Windows and/or active speakers, it doesn't go up much, I may end up turning all the knobs at maximum and not getting much. So, Winamp must be set at a reasonably high setting.

Look at the picture bellow. The white and grey bars are pulsating when music is playing. Why there are 2 bars ? Green one is always smaller and they pulsate together. Could this be one for Winamp and the other for general output ? Grey bar can go way up to the end and never distort, while if the green one is going above half, clipping and even distortions occur.

34zwoj6.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From post#13

Still, what puzzles me the most is why if the sound is recorded loud in the first place, everything works ok, since I don't need to raise the volume. If the sound is recorded low, I have to raise the volume on the sound card and then it gets capped, like sound card doesn't have enough power (like occurring in clipping).
Did you look over the Gain Structure stuff? This is what I've been harping on all along.

I repeat, take any/all mixers out of the equation except this - use WMP with NO EQ and the Creative Mixer with NO EQ and DO NOT USE WINAMP at the moment. Use ONLY one connection into the Active (powered) Speakers, not BOTH. HEED THE GAIN STRUCTURE (read that stuff)!

IF you "simplify" the "chain" you may better be able to identify the source of the problem, be it Gain or Wiring. We don't even hook up all of the Inputs to a Mixer until the Output Chains have been confirmed AND start at LOW LEVELS (InputGain+OutputFader) on a SINGLE CHANNEL using e.g. a CD Player with LOW LEVELS at the Master and LOW LEVELS at the Amp until it's confirmed that the CABLES are good.

I also note that you specifically stated that Front->Receiver(EQ and all)->Passive(with built-in Crossover Lo/Mid/Hi?) seems to work OK. Obviously the Denon is powered SO, maybe the Active Speakers have failed (or cabling to them?).

re - Equalization - Google

graphic equalizer smiley face

and tell me what you find out in addition to the Gain Structure hints I gave. Based on Post#13, I'd say your "low level" recordings are one of the sources of your problem (GAIN structure).

S-I-M-P-L-I-F-Y with a GOOD source sound for isolation.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you look over the Gain Structure stuff?

Yes.

take any/all mixers out of the equation except this - use WMP with NO EQ and the Creative Mixer with NO EQ and DO NOT USE WINAMP at the moment. Use ONLY one connection into the Active (powered) Speakers, not BOTH. HEED THE GAIN STRUCTURE (read that stuff)!

I don't understand what you meant above. Except what ? "this" is referring to what ? If I don't use Winamp, what shall I use ? I need a player to play music. And I am using one connection into the active speakers. Even though active speakers have 2 inputs, those are used alternatively, not both at once. Speakers have an input selector.

Heed - now that's a new word to me, I learned something today. :) About gaining. I cannot adjust gain, other then based on my ears. When I get no clipping and distortions, I assume gain is ok. You keep insisting on gain. But I think it's ok. Do you believe I am setting something wrong ? Tell me the volume levels and I set them accordingly.

IF you "simplify" the "chain" you may better be able to identify the source of the problem, be it Gain or Wiring. We don't even hook up all of the Inputs to a Mixer until the Output Chains have been confirmed AND start at LOW LEVELS (InputGain+OutputFader) on a SINGLE CHANNEL using e.g. a CD Player with LOW LEVELS at the Master and LOW LEVELS at the Amp until it's confirmed that the CABLES are good.

Again, my equipment is not a professional one. And my cables are ok, good cables, big, thick, good shielded, gold plated connectors, general good quality, problem isn't from cables. Also, apart from various other cards inside computer, there is no source of electromagnetic perturbation in the area.

I also note that you specifically stated that Front->Receiver(EQ and all)->Passive(with built-in Crossover Lo/Mid/Hi?) seems to work OK. Obviously the Denon is powered SO, maybe the Active Speakers have failed (or cabling to them?).

To some extend, I suspect them of having some issues, but not clearly what. When connected to the motherboard built-in audio card, the clipping (capping, whatever) is much lower, so, logically, I'll say Creative sound card may have something to say in all this.

Yes, with receiver, sound is much better, but I fear to use it, since I don't know if sound card is ok. I mean, I'm not clearing it yet. It used to sound fine when just plugging headphones into it (designated headphones output on front panel). Now it sounds horrible there. Via receiver, still sounds good, but not quite as it was some time ago. But clearly better. Since it worked before on both receiver and on sound card and now it's only working ok on receiver, I suspect something went wrong with the card. Maybe DAC inside the card is faulty, I don't know. On receiver I only connected via optical plug, although it does have a coaxial socket as well. However, on active speakers I connected via coaxial (still bypassing the DAC) and doesn't sound good.

Definitely will need to clean it and replace the ribbon cable, a long shot, but if I do have a bullet on my gun, no matter how far the target, I stil have a chance, huh ?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GOOD GLORY!!!

WMP=Windows Media Player! DO NOT USE WinAmp for the time - REMOVE FROM EQUATION! It has a GAIN BOOST in it!!!

* - SCREW "how good it sounds" we want to ISOLATE the CLIP problem!

1 - DISCONNECT all Wires from Sound EXCEPT the SINGLE REAR ONE (Analog) to the Active Speaker

2 - Use Windows Media Player - DISABLE the EQ - Set Volume Level LOW to start

3 - In your Creative Sound Control Panel - DISABLE the EQ - Set Volume Level LOW to start

4 - In Windows Volume Control - Set Volume Level (ALL of them for Playback) LOW to start

5 - If the Creative Sound Control has ANY BOOSTING OF ANYTHING - DISABLE IT/THEM

6 - Set Active Speaker Volume LOW - if ANY EQ on it (e.g. Bass/Treble knobs) SET TO CENTER (Flat)

7 - Using Windows Media Player, play an MP3 that is NOT recorded at a Low Level (go to ANY Music website and PICK one)

* - Do you get CLIPS?

8 - If so, then there is (probably/maybe) a problem with Hardware/Cables/THE SPEAKER

9 - If NOT, continue SLOWLY adjust EACH Volume ON-BY-ONE upward

10 - Repeat "9" - WHICHEVER one CLIPS, then THERE is the "clipper" (IF you started from No Clip)

I specifically stated (ref your Post#13 which I cited) that a LOW RECORDED sound that you ATTEMPT to COMPENSATE FOR LEVELS by PUMPING IT UP will CLIP!!! GAIN STRUCTURE! Bad Recording = Bad Output - GIGO (Garbage In Garbage Out)!!! Do NOT test with one of those - test with a KNOWN GOOD AUDIO!

And my cables are ok, good cables, big, thick, good shielded, gold plated connectors, general good quality, problem isn't from cables.
WHAT makes you so cock-sure that there isn't a SHORTING between Wires in the CONNECTORS? We have had to THROW AWAY some "good solid pretty-on-the-outside" Speaker/Microphone/(etc) EXPENSIVE cables due to INTERNAL SHORTS. GOOD GRAVY, maybe the WHOLE FRONT PANEL is bad causing a SHORT in the CARD!!!

IS the Front Panel ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to test the Line Out in the BACK? If not, DISCONNECT FROM CARD! This will PROVE whether it's STRICTLY the Sound Card (at least the Rear Out, if nothing else) or "something else".

Your Sound Card -

http://support.creative.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster&subCatID=208&subCatName=X-Fi&prodID=16559&prodName=X-Fi+Platinum+Fatal1ty+Champion+Series

I'm ALSO betting that you NEVER updated your Drivers (from Creative - see the link above).

"Front Panel" photo inside this -

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=232407

Indeed I found this

www.creative.com/oem/resources/SoundCards/SB046x.pdf

that tells me that the Console you spoke of MAY be another piece of Hardware that you failed to mention (?). I have looked at the JPG from the Post#13 and it APPEARS that you need NOTHING connected EXCEPT the Line-Out#1 (there are THREE) to the Speakers. THIS should suffice to test AT LEAST THAT (according to my ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS).

Here is a Quick Start Guide

http://static.tigerdirect.com/pdf/CreativeLabsSoundBlasterX-Fi-Fatal1tyQuickStart.pdf

It indicates a MANUAL.CHM that should have been on your Install CD.

FOUND the manual -

http://www.filetxt.net/txt/61c76d39h32i0

Indicates problems with Clipping on Vista (older drivers?) -

http://www.rage3d.com/Board/archive/index.php?t-33918675.html

Something/Tip (see post#246)?

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=3368680

ISOLATE by REMOVING ALL BUT BASICS!!!

If you REFUSE to try what I tell you to AND report back, then I REFUSE to assist further. Either do it or not. Your choice. ;) "I tried EVERYTHING but what I was told to try..."

EDIT EDIT EDIT!!! In the Manual, NOWHERE does it say anything about connecting Coax (Front) to Speakers! I also went ahead and looked up the Genius SP-HF 2020... How ya got THAT set up (seeing as how IT has EQ as well).

SP-HF2020 is a 60-watt powerful 4-way wood speaker system with a wireless remote control. The digital input can connect to a LED/LCD TV or DVD player using a coaxial cable. DSP (Digital Sound Processor) to re-live HI-FI sound quality.
(can't find the MANUAL...) If the SWITCH in back changes from Analog<->Digital IT could be bad!!! Use ONE only!

After all of this digging, I would say you DO have Pro Sound Equipment. ;)

Edited by submix8c
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From post#13

Still, what puzzles me the most is why if the sound is recorded loud in the first place, everything works ok, since I don't need to raise the volume. If the sound is recorded low, I have to raise the volume on the sound card and then it gets capped, like sound card doesn't have enough power (like occurring in clipping).
Did you look over the Gain Structure stuff? This is what I've been harping on all along.

When I was in the business, bands would often give me discs to play during show intermissions and what not. After a little while I realised that there was a certain level of quality required in a CD recording that I could make use of. It really sucked to tell bands that you can't use their stuff because the gain was too low. Many bands maybe can't afford to make a quality recording like that. While it is possible to fix that when ripping an MP3, it is a time consuming process and I rarely ever used it. There was only 1 band I convinced to re-record their album and it turned out great. But when I was doing sound, I resisted using a computer for that and if the CD wasn't up to snuff I wouldn't use it.

This problem also exists in older CD recordings even from labelled bands that were recorded in certain formats prior to about 1993 or so. That's one reason why so many "remastered" releases came out in the mid to late 90s.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.