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Capped (clipped, whatever) sound with Audigy sound card


Phaenius

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They are the same. One green 3.5 mm jack, standard to all computer audio cards. But I am not using much, because I use the coaxial output. The active speakers have a built in input selector.

But I wanted (and omitted in my previous post) to ask you, with all the multitude of volume settings, how should I set the volume on each component ? I have volume on music player (in this case Winamp), on sound card (two in fact, for general output and headphones output) and on both active speakers and receiver (depending of what am I using).

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They are the same. One green 3.5 mm jack, standard to all computer audio cards.

I found this hard to believe because I am used to seeing specs for separate "Speaker out", which is effected by the sound card's volume control, and "Line out", which is not. But it seems he is correct. I looked here - http://eighthunderworld.forumotion.com/t58-review-creative-labs-x-fi-platinum-fatal1ty-champion-series:

I/O Drive Connectivity

• Two RCA jacks for coaxial SPDIF input and output

• Two RCA jacks for Auxiliary input

• Two optical connectors for optical SPDIF input and output

• Two mini MIDI female connectors for MIDI input and output

• Headphone output with volume control via 6.35 mm (1/4-inch) stereo jack

• Shared line-level analog Line/Microphone input via 6.35 mm (1/4-inch) stereo jack

Pic of the FPS version of the card:

X-FiHardware2.png

Cheers and Regards

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I put pictures of the card and manual with diagrams in this post, you can download them. Again, link to manual is here http://www.datafilehost.com/download-22f946f2.html

This is a standard card. I know it's more common from an electronics or audio specialist to output via line out (something around 0.7 - 1.0 V, with high impedance), but in not state-of-the-art sound cards, it's common the same jack to share the same output, both headphones and line out. Heck, they do this on an even more outrageous sharing, microphone and line in.

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Look at how many capacitors on that card! :w00t:

A rule of thumb being that an electronic circuit board has as many probabilities to have issues - expecially when aging - as the number of electrolytic capacitors on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Also, just imagine how much dust could hide under them! :whistle:

(and how much dust/dirt could affect the 10-degree rule)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor#Reliability_and_length_of_life

jaclaz

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Do you think the board in defective because of the capacitors ?

It is a possibility (not necessarily appying to your case).

How much do they last on average ?

It greatly depends on manufacturing quality and temperature (which you may also read as "on how clean is the board/environment". :whistle: )

READ the given links, they were posted for this.

jaclaz

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But I wanted (and omitted in my previous post) to ask you, with all the multitude of volume settings, how should I set the volume on each component ? I have volume on music player (in this case Winamp), on sound card (two in fact, for general output and headphones output) and on both active speakers and receiver (depending of what am I using).

I typically like to leave Windows at its defaults and use only 1 software method for controlling sound. So for my PCs I let Winamp handle the EQ, and the Creative (or other) software not enable any EQ or other effects.

winamp_eq.jpg

I believe I have experienced the problem you have with my iPod in my car. In that case, I have set a volume limiter on the iPod to 60% ... anything over that can cause distortion for some reason. It had this problem both with using a tape adapter (in old car) or using the aux in my current one. With an iPod and current car stereo there is limited things you can do really. I believe my iPod uses the Jazz mode, and then the car's levels are:

9 bass

6 mid

2 treble

(out of ten)

So in your case, make sure either you choose to use whichever is better at controlling your sound. You'll have to test whether that's your computer or your receiver.

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Test with my ears ? So far, I found no acceptable settings. I suspect some damage. jaclaz made me worried with his capacitors plague.

It greatly depends on manufacturing quality and temperature (which you may also read as "on how clean is the board/environment". :whistle: )

READ the given links, they were posted for this.

jaclaz

I read the links. Temperatures inside my computer are not that high. I counter the dust on components (thus heat accumulation) with the lack of case door. :D If I would keep computer clean, but with door closed, temperatures would have been the same (if not higher).

Edited by Phaenius
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I counter the dust on components (thus heat accumulation) with the lack of case door. :D If I would keep computer clean, but with door closed, temperatures would have been the same (if not higher).

I believe this to be faulty logic, though I used to believe it as well. :) The truth is that a properly designed, and clean, case will have better cooling characteristics due to airflow being forced through in a controlled path. Without the case door you lose that controlled path and allow at least an order of magnitude more dust and dirt into the case. Without the controlled path to force the air over the components to remove both heat and a little bit of the dust, the dust builds up even faster and you have less heat dissipation. Not to mention the likely higher fan noise you will hear in the room from an open case.

Cheers and Regards

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Well, although well intentioned, the fault lies with you in my case. :D My computer air flow is obstructed at the back by a large bedside, so most of the air inside computer is from one side. Not to mention the airflow is heavily obstructed by clogged fan filters. There are 5 case fans inside my computer, each with dust filter. Those filters are full of dirt, tough to reach, due to tight space. But I measured the temps inside, with and without case. With all the filters clean and computer undusted, but door on it has pretty much the same temperatures with computer full of dust, but without door.

But you're right, a clean computer is a happy computer.

Although, extrapolating, every electronic device suffer from the same dust. What shall we do ? Open our tv, cd players, phones, hair dryers, washing mashines, game consoles, toys and so on and clean them all ? :whistle:

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Not to mention the likely higher fan noise you will hear in the room from an open case.

I find the sound comforting. There are a symphony of fans and motors (around 15 in total). :D But they are quite quiet, they are set to auto, now in winter, they don't spin fast.

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Although, extrapolating, every electronic device suffer from the same dust. What shall we do ? Open our tv, cd players, phones, hair dryers, washing mashines, game consoles, toys and so on and clean them all ? :whistle:

As I've already said, when any of those items begin having any problems, like your computer is now, that is indeed the first thing I do. :) At one time or another I have had each one of those items open and cleaned them.

Cheers and Regards

Edited by bphlpt
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Although, extrapolating, every electronic device suffer from the same dust. What shall we do ? Open our tv, cd players, phones, hair dryers, washing mashines, game consoles, toys and so on and clean them all ? :whistle:

Yes, all of them that do have a fan sucking air inside them.

Of course this does NOT apply "normally" to:

  • tv, cd players, phones, washing machines (as they do NOT normally have a fan, though you would be surprised on how dust - over many years of service - can affect the functioning of a TV )

it may apply to:

  • game consoles, toys (if they have a fan sucking air)

It definitely applies to:

  • hair dryers <- but for a completely different reason, which is called "hygiene" :whistle:

jaclaz

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