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Motherboard front panel header and case front panel connectors don'

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#1
vipejc

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Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me


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#2
jaclaz

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Which motherboard?
Which case?

Compare with (as an example):
http://www.eggxpert....ead/600167.aspx

Or with :whistle: :
http://www.tomshardw...where-plug-bias

Just tell me where to plug in "mic bias" and "mic in" here is a pic of my sound card ...

you need to plug it in a rabbits ear. the mic bias goes in rabbits left ear, the mic in goes in rabbits right ear. You dont want to know where the sound out plugs into


jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz, 15 December 2012 - 09:52 AM.


#3
submix8c

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Posted the same question here. Some kind of Compaq Case was original (apparently). Did you try TRACING the wiring on the OLD case to correlate to the NEW case pins using a meter ("continuity")? All you'll get with the original question are "wild guesses", of which I can ONLY vouch for the +5v pin (case) is really the VCC pin (MoBo) since that's USUALLY what VCC means.

Edit - and there appears to be several MoBo's with that configuration.
Edit2 -

ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E


Edited by submix8c, 15 December 2012 - 01:08 PM.

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#4
jaclaz

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Posted the same question here.

Well, it's OK, he is asking a 2nd opinion :).
JFYI ;):
http://www.msfn.org/...amps-and-watts/

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#5
submix8c

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Edit2... ;) Must be boring without all of those Vista Business spam posts. :w00t:

Should a recommendation be given for where to find a cheap meter? And how to set for Continuity? :)
(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#6
jaclaz

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Should a recommendation be given for where to find a cheap meter?

Naaah, been there, done that (remember to search ;)):

Any El-Cheapo Multimeter will do. This is the one I use. It has good enough voltmeter and ohmmeter capabilities, which is all we'll need, and some more nice capabilities, and a very nice price.



BTW, El-Cheaper:
http://www.multimete...DT830BMinif.htm

"My" link is - strangely enough :w00t: - still valid :whistle: .

jaclaz

#7
vipejc

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Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1, 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

Edited by vipejc, 16 December 2012 - 05:36 AM.

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#8
jaclaz

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I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time.

Well, you could use it to also experimentally measure the current absorption of a fan, or the voltage level coming out of fan motherboard header ..... :whistle:

:lol:

More seriously I simply cannot conceive the idea of someone dealing with electronics mods (or assembling PC's) having not at least an el-cheapo or el-cheaper ;) multimeter handy.
Particularly with "loose" connectors such as (example):
http://forums.ocwork...ead.php?t=49396
I personally would never even think of connecting them before having made triple sure of which is what with a multimeter :ph34r: .
(exchanging data connectors is not an issue, but +5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference between a working something and that peculiar smell of burned chips - no, not potato chips - that usually translates to "bucks flying out of the window")

And now, for NO apparent reasons and spuddenly :angel :
Spoiler


jaclaz

#9
submix8c

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1 Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. 2 I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. 3 Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1 (now this one too?), 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. 4 I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

1 Smart-axe responses will get you zilch. Typically, you expect crystal-ball answers. ALL hardware has it's differences unless the EXACT SAME ITEM, in which "case"... DUH!!!
2 Who said a few wires at a time to check continuity? Unplug the cable from MoBo and CHECK (front panel, remember?)!

(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

3

Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC <-Case Pin#7
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V <-Motherboard Pin#4
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.

4 Colors may be all out of whack. You STILL will need to check continuity. ;)
*

+5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference

(see #2,#4)

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#10
jaclaz

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Also, generically speaking, do not forget the power of collective knowledge (and experience) ;) :
http://www.msfn.org/...013#entry994013

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#11
vipejc

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1 Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. 2 I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. 3 Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1 (now this one too?), 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. 4 I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

1 Smart-axe responses will get you zilch. Typically, you expect crystal-ball answers. ALL hardware has it's differences unless the EXACT SAME ITEM, in which "case"... DUH!!!
2 Who said a few wires at a time to check continuity? Unplug the cable from MoBo and CHECK (front panel, remember?)!

(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

3

Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC <-Case Pin#7
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V <-Motherboard Pin#4
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.

4 Colors may be all out of whack. You STILL will need to check continuity. ;)
*

+5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference

(see #2,#4)



1. Wasn't directed at you or Jaclaz. I appreciate your efforts.
2. The more I researched, the less confident I became in certain pins.
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#12
submix8c

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Well, FWIW, it appears the the answer you got over at the OC forum is similar to the one given here. Although I could be wrong based on the specs. This indicates you have a Compaq model similar to a SR1030NX. You see, without knowing EXACTLY what your OLD case is (IOW, the Compaq MODEL) as well as the MoBo as well as the NEW case we are only... GUESSING. You've consistently stubbornly refused to give any details other than that which you wish to provide. This just cause us to DRAG info from you to further... GUESS.

According to the Specs page, the Rear connectors are the basic (top-to-bottom) "Line IN" "Line OUT" "Mic IN" and probably changeable to accommodate 6-CH Dolby Surround (all are OUT). I will VENTURE to say the the "FPOUT"/"RET" are the "typical" contacts that (possibly) "disconnect" the Back Panel OUT in lieu of FP-Headphones (FPOUT/tip = + and RET/sleeve = -), the "-" side laying against the "+" side to allow "through" to Rear Connectors. The "MIC2" is PROBABLY for a Condensor(?)-type Mic(?).

You can SEE why we have suggested you TRACE the FRONT through the CABLE (disconnected from the MoBo) via Continuity Check (touch stuff inside the FRONT to an PIN on the MoBo end of the CABLE). Possibly, this BOX has a PC-board in the back of the FRONT that could ENTIRELY change the circuitry. Did you check that? You MAY have to (AFTER thorough Continuity check and DEPENDING on an additional PC-Board) "rig"/rewire the CABLE (or NEW cable?) to adapt to the MoBo. You ARE dealing with a "Compaq/HP Modified" ASUS MoBo, you know...

Finally, according to SR1030NX Specs the Front Panel has the same sound connections, although I'd bet that it's STRICTLY "L/R Line In/Out" and "Mic (mono) IN" and NOT able to change to Surround as this is USUALLY how it works. I COULD be wrong and MIC1/2 COULD indicate a "L/R"-style mic (UNKNOWN). "JD" COULD mean "Jumper Detect" (whatever that might be?).

Google'd
"front panel" "mic jd"

That's all any of us "experts" can give without exact info and further reference links. ;)

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#13
vipejc

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Well, FWIW, it appears the the answer you got over at the OC forum is similar to the one given here. Although I could be wrong based on the specs. This indicates you have a Compaq model similar to a SR1030NX. You see, without knowing EXACTLY what your OLD case is (IOW, the Compaq MODEL) as well as the MoBo as well as the NEW case we are only... GUESSING. You've consistently stubbornly refused to give any details other than that which you wish to provide. This just cause us to DRAG info from you to further... GUESS.

According to the Specs page, the Rear connectors are the basic (top-to-bottom) "Line IN" "Line OUT" "Mic IN" and probably changeable to accommodate 6-CH Dolby Surround (all are OUT). I will VENTURE to say the the "FPOUT"/"RET" are the "typical" contacts that (possibly) "disconnect" the Back Panel OUT in lieu of FP-Headphones (FPOUT/tip = + and RET/sleeve = -), the "-" side laying against the "+" side to allow "through" to Rear Connectors. The "MIC2" is PROBABLY for a Condensor(?)-type Mic(?).

You can SEE why we have suggested you TRACE the FRONT through the CABLE (disconnected from the MoBo) via Continuity Check (touch stuff inside the FRONT to an PIN on the MoBo end of the CABLE). Possibly, this BOX has a PC-board in the back of the FRONT that could ENTIRELY change the circuitry. Did you check that? You MAY have to (AFTER thorough Continuity check and DEPENDING on an additional PC-Board) "rig"/rewire the CABLE (or NEW cable?) to adapt to the MoBo. You ARE dealing with a "Compaq/HP Modified" ASUS MoBo, you know...

Finally, according to SR1030NX Specs the Front Panel has the same sound connections, although I'd bet that it's STRICTLY "L/R Line In/Out" and "Mic (mono) IN" and NOT able to change to Surround as this is USUALLY how it works. I COULD be wrong and MIC1/2 COULD indicate a "L/R"-style mic (UNKNOWN). "JD" COULD mean "Jumper Detect" (whatever that might be?).

Google'd

"front panel" "mic jd"

That's all any of us "experts" can give without exact info and further reference links. ;)


I wasn't being stubborn. I didn't tell you model names because I thought the new case connectors and motherboard header schematics were all you needed. I will happily provide any details you require. All you have to do is ask. This should get you started:

Compaq SR1030NX ATX mid-tower case
New case is a Cooler Master Elite 335 ATX mid-tower
Mobo is an ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E

What else would you like? I know my entire system like the back of my hand, from the BIOS revision to the CPU stepping code. This is the first time in 8 years I've ever dealt with case connectors and motherboard headers, so I'm learning as I go. And thanks to the incredibly stupid case and motherboard makers, I never ever want to deal with this lunacy again.
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#14
submix8c

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Specifically talks about "rewiring". That would include the LED's, Powers Switch, FP-connector, etc.
http://forums.windri...rd-ATX-question
No details in the link, just what we've stated.

Apparently this fellow used a A7V8X docs to solve his problem -
http://www.fixya.com...io_wires_unplug
NOTE that this is the "other" model (Kamet2) as spoken of in this thread -
http://www.hardwarea...nt/topic/18271/
NOTE also the comment about "plugging into front disables rear"

I found your SPECIFIC MoBo here -
http://www.elhvb.com.../oem/hp/manual/
Scroll down to Kelut - yep it matches what you gave.
Everything HP/Compaq -
http://www.elhvb.com...m/HP/index.html
Didn't look too far into the Kelut manual but probably matches this for "other than sound"
http://www.findlapto...el-motherboard/

It looks like you'll HAVE to Continuity check the OLD cable to the OLD FRONT and act accordingly...
AGAIN, if it has a "Front Panel I/O Board" it'll make it more difficult due to having to "trace through" (visually?).

That's all, folks!

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#15
vipejc

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I made a mistake. I was thinking the motherboard was smaller than it was. During my practice run, I discovered the case and motherboard screw hole locations perfectly match. Now to get that Delta fan and I'll put the cooler in Cooler Master. And if I ever actually need the front panel ports, I'll buy a cheap multimeter and test the front panel pins. :yes:

Edited by vipejc, 18 December 2012 - 11:20 AM.

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#16
jaclaz

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... and maybe pay a carpenter to drill them with that special size drill bit.

You will need to find a special carpenter that has "that special size drill bit." :unsure: .

Or you might get away with adhesive stand-offs or with PCB feets (examples):
http://www.avtic.com...ive_pcb_spacers

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http://www.mikesarca....pl?sku=PCBFEET
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#17
Tripredacus

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Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.


Motherboard has an HD Audio connector.
Case has an AC 97 connector.

http://www.intel.com...b/cs-015851.htm
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#18
vipejc

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Just an update on my build. Everything went fairly smoothly in one pass other than Windows XP complaining for no good reason a few times and giving me a message saying We're sorry for the inconvenience, but Windows did not start correctly... And of course there was nothing really wrong and that was Windows just being Windows and after the 2nd reboot it logged right into Windows like it always has.

But I do have one major problem. Now everybody that's followed this thread knows I had no plans of connecting the case front panel audio connector because the manufacturers make it idiotically complicated with all their different pin and connector names. However, my system has no sound from the analog desktop speakers connected to the rear green output port. I thought the AC'97 audio case front panel connector was for only front panel audio? I checked all my sound settings and everything is set correctly. I use onboard Realtek AC'97 audio. Worse, the AC'97 case front panel connector uses Intel's IFPA AC'97 audio and the motherboard uses a proprietary header and pins 1, 3, 4 and 7 don't match. The case front panel audio uses block connectors (HD Audio or AC'97), and in order to use them, I'd have to remove each pin from the block connector, but I don't know how without causing damage. Does each pin have a separate connector when removed from the block connector, or would they be bare wires?
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#19
bphlpt

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From the link trip provided above - http://www.intel.com...b/cs-015851.htm :

Note HD Audio headers are pin-compatible with AC'97 chassis and connectors.


and since from referring to the above link and Trip's analysis of the info you provided above:

Motherboard has an HD Audio connector.
Case has an AC 97 connector.


it seems you should be able to just connect the motherboard to your front panel and give it a try. At least that is the way I interpret things.

As to why your "system has no sound from the analog desktop speakers connected to the rear green output port", I have no idea at all.

Cheers and Regards

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#20
vipejc

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New issue. My DVD drive is no longer detected in My Computer. BIOS detects it. I tried removing the upper and lower filters registry entries and restarting, but still no DVD drive icon in My Computer.
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#21
Tripredacus

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New issue. My DVD drive is no longer detected in My Computer. BIOS detects it. I tried removing the upper and lower filters registry entries and restarting, but still no DVD drive icon in My Computer.


See if it is detected if a disc is in the drive when the PC boots. Is it a SATA or ATAPI DVD drive?
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#22
vipejc

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New issue. My DVD drive is no longer detected in My Computer. BIOS detects it. I tried removing the upper and lower filters registry entries and restarting, but still no DVD drive icon in My Computer.


See if it is detected if a disc is in the drive when the PC boots. Is it a SATA or ATAPI DVD drive?


I can boot from a CD or DVD. It's ATAPI. In addition to deleting the LowerFilters registry entry, I ran the Microsoft CD and DVD Fix It tool, which didn't help. The DVD drive isn't shown in Device Manager by default. It's shown as a ghosted icon under hidden devices that's disconnected. All drive jumpers and cables are correct and secure. The drive is also not shown in Computer Management. The DVD drive is healthy. No idea what to do.
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#23
submix8c

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You must screw with your OS quite a bit to mess that (DVD) up!

Now for the Rear Sound - as I remember, there's some PINS on the HEADER that goes to the FRONT PANEL that you MUST JUMPER if you are NOT plugging in the FRONT PANEL. Remember me saying something about "plug into FP and Rear Is Disabled? ;) Look back at the links I gave - the info as to WHICH "pairs" is clearly given. That's all I'm going to say - YOU do some footwork from what's given.

Edited by submix8c, 26 December 2012 - 11:38 AM.

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#24
vipejc

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You must screw with your OS quite a bit to mess that (DVD) up!

Now for the Rear Sound - as I remember, there's some PINS on the HEADER that goes to the FRONT PANEL that you MUST JUMPER if you are NOT plugging in the FRONT PANEL. Remember me saying something about "plug into FP and Rear Is Disabled? ;) Look back at the links I gave - the info as to WHICH "pairs" is clearly given. That's all I'm going to say - YOU do some footwork from what's given.


No, I hardly screw with my OS. The DVD burner disappeared in Windows after I transferred the system into my new case and removed the CD-ROM drive and card reader to regain some power supply wattage so I could install a front fan to improve cooling.

I know that. I was ready to buy two jumpers to do that. If I were to attach the case front panel audio connector AC'97 audio to my motherboard's front audio header and if a pin was wrong, is there any chance of damaging my motherboard, or would something just not work?
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#25
submix8c

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(sigh...)

However, my system has no sound from the analog desktop speakers connected to the rear green output port. I thought the AC'97 audio case front panel connector was for only front panel audio?

I know that. I was ready to buy two jumpers to do that.

You just now said "OHHH!!! I forgot to mention, I realize the problem - scratch that one", otherwise I wouldn't have mentioned it.

The DVD burner disappeared in Windows after I transferred the system into my new case and removed the CD-ROM drive and card reader

You ALSO didn't mention that! We do NOT consult "crystal balls" here. Try this - go into SAFE mode and REMOVE those items from the Device Manager and REBOOT! I "assume" you set the jumpers on the back correctly?

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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