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Motherboard front panel header and case front panel connectors don'

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#51
jaclaz

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Single/Master(NoSlave)=NoJumper / Master(+Slave)=Jumper <-WD only(?)

Yes. I don't remember other brands with the dual Master/single and Master settings.

Still referring to CableSelect cables and PROBABLY when using the Jumpers in CS-mode. Strange (or not) that many OLDER CD/DVD-Drives RECOMMEND CS on Channel-1 on the END of the 40-conductor Cable.

No, you are seemingly having problems in reading/understanding what is written.

There exist (in 40 wires cable) BOTH Cable Select Enabled and "plain" NON Cable Select ones, on the 40 wires CSE cables the Slave is at the end of the cable .

The 80 wires are all (or should be all) Cable Select Enabled and the Slave is in the middle.

On *any* bus of *any*kind (and not only PC/Computer related) having an end of a cable "free" with nothing connected to it is NOT smart and it is a possible source of trouble.

Do you remember the good ol' SCSI bus and it's "terminators"?

jaclaz


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#52
vipejc

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Single/Master(NoSlave)=NoJumper / Master(+Slave)=Jumper <-WD only(?)

Yes. I don't remember other brands with the dual Master/single and Master settings.

Still referring to CableSelect cables and PROBABLY when using the Jumpers in CS-mode. Strange (or not) that many OLDER CD/DVD-Drives RECOMMEND CS on Channel-1 on the END of the 40-conductor Cable.

No, you are seemingly having problems in reading/understanding what is written.

There exist (in 40 wires cable) BOTH Cable Select Enabled and "plain" NON Cable Select ones, on the 40 wires CSE cables the Slave is at the end of the cable .

The 80 wires are all (or should be all) Cable Select Enabled and the Slave is in the middle.

On *any* bus of *any*kind (and not only PC/Computer related) having an end of a cable "free" with nothing connected to it is NOT smart and it is a possible source of trouble.

Do you remember the good ol' SCSI bus and it's "terminators"?

jaclaz


@ jaclaz
I'm waiting for a package in the mail of cable ties. Once it arrives, I'll shut down my computer and start isolating IDE cables. But first, I'm simply going to try changing the jumpers to Slave on the hard disk and Master on the DVD burner, just to see if this makes a difference. A hard disk can be a Slave to a DVD burner that is seldom used without issue, right?
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#53
bphlpt

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Even if it "can" be, it is not the best practice. Are you sure your cable is not long enough to be able to connect the DVD and HDD to the cable in the correct positions? Just because the DVD is located "above" the HDD doesn't mean that the cable can't be bent/twisted/folded in order to get it into the right position. If the cable is long enough for the middle/slave connector to reach the DVD, then you should be able to make it work.

Cheers and Regards

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#54
submix8c

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@jaclaz -

Well, that's the reason I said I "kind of" dispute the assertions made in said article about 40-connector MASTER=MIDDLE and SLAVE=END, since I've always used (per WDC as well) MASTER=END regardless of SLAVE=MIDDLE attached or not.

You see, I'm reading CONFLICTING info on "where to connect" on (aka) 40-wire MAS/SLV. As in the "good old days" the Jumper sets Device0-MAS and Device1-SLV (AFAIK).

:unsure: Maybe the 40-wire ones I've been using are Non-CSE (IOW, CS should NOT be used on the Devices and won't work)? Guess I'd better check the box contents and start marking. Either they are "cut" somewhere or disconnected on that pin ( ref http://unixwiz.net/t...ble-select.html ). Interesting that said article links back to pcguide. Hence the Non-CSE vs CSE misunderstanding (position of device) in relation to Jumpered-Not-CSE. Am I making sense?

Yes, SCSI Terminators - have an old HP NetServer sitting here gathering dust. And the could care less "where connected" and the Jumpers set the SCSI-ID.

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#55
vipejc

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Even if it "can" be, it is not the best practice. Are you sure your cable is not long enough to be able to connect the DVD and HDD to the cable in the correct positions? Just because the DVD is located "above" the HDD doesn't mean that the cable can't be bent/twisted/folded in order to get it into the right position. If the cable is long enough for the middle/slave connector to reach the DVD, then you should be able to make it work.

Cheers and Regards


The IDE cable is long enough. I can't twist it to make it so the HDD is on the end Master connector. I'm going to try my idea and just see if it brings back the DVD burner in Windows. What's funny is the BIOS detects it, but Windows is blind to it.
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#56
bphlpt

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Good luck, but trust me, if you can reach from the motherboard to the DVD with the middle connector, and you can reach from the DVD to the HDD with the length of cable from the middle to the end connector, I'm 95% sure that it can be folded/flipped/twisted to make it work. I've wrestled with many of them over the years and have always succeeded. Try putting it together in reverse order. In other words, start the connection process by connecting the end connector to the HDD, then connect the middle connector to the DVD, then connect to the motherboard. A way you can experiment to see it this would even make a difference anyway is to just let the HDD temporarily hang from the cable, or prop it up with cardboard, just long enough to boot and see what Windows thinks. If the cable is hooked up correctly, and the BIOS detects it, and Windows still doesn't, then there is something else wrong with your Windows install.

Cheers and Regards

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#57
vipejc

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It turns out the problem wasn't the BIOS or IDE cables. I forgot to set the Local Bus IDE Adapter BIOS setting from Both to Primary. Using the two-device 80-wire IDE cable with the hard disk set to Master w/ Slave Present on the gray connector and the DVD burner set to Slave on the black connector, the BIOS and Windows detect the hard disk and DVD burner. Yes, I know the gray connector is supposed to be used for the slave device and the black for master, but the cable doesn't accommodate this setup and it's not causing a problem. Also, I restored my audio by jumpering the motherboard's front audio pins. I also restored my DVD burner in Windows by readjusting a few settings in Device Manager under the IDE channels. See, I only enable what I use on my computer, and after years of not changing it, I sometimes forget.

I do have a new concern, however. I noticed that the black teeth on one of the front USB ports to this new case looks damaged. There's a metal spot showing. The port worked fine in testing, but could this cause device damage, or is it only a cosmetic factory defect?
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me

#58
submix8c

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It turns out the problem wasn't the BIOS or IDE cables. I forgot to set the Local Bus IDE Adapter BIOS setting from Both to Primary.

Makes no sense and I can't find anything indicating what those settings mean (regardless of the fact I SAID that color mattered IF USING CSEL).

Also, I restored my audio by jumpering the motherboard's front audio pins.

As was already found. Glad you tried it and it worked. FP Connector is a separate issue.

I also restored my DVD burner in Windows by readjusting a few settings in Device Manager under the IDE channels. See, I only enable what I use on my computer, and after years of not changing it, I sometimes forget.

Yes, too bad you didn't notice that BIOS setting before and the associated Device Manager stuff. Also too bad we have wasted a LOT of time on your "problems".

I do have a new concern, however. I noticed that the black teeth on one of the front USB ports to this new case looks damaged. There's a metal spot showing. The port worked fine in testing, but could this cause device damage, or is it only a cosmetic factory defect?

"BLACK TEETH"??? "METAL SPOT"??? What's THAT? Take a pic and upload it. That ALSO makes no sense! My Connectors have NO "BLACK TEETH" AFAICT... Another Goose Chase?

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#59
vipejc

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Sub, I'm referring to the black plastic horizontal strip inside a USB 2.0 type-A receptacle. A piece of the black coating is worn and appears a clear or silver color. My question is could this cause device damage, or is it only a cosmetic factory defect?
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#60
submix8c

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(sigh...) Inside MINE is a "vertical" (since mine is obviously Up-Down instead of Left-Right - YOU GAVE NO PHOTO IMAGE) Black Strip with FOUR contacts and on the OPPOSITE side there are TWO "contacts" that MAY be (and obviously ARE) for the Shield/CaseGround. See this Pinout (both Male and Female) and this Mobo Pinout? I have NO CLUE what you're talking about...

P-I-C-T-U-R-E!!!

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#61
vipejc

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(sigh...) Inside MINE is a "vertical" (since mine is obviously Up-Down instead of Left-Right - YOU GAVE NO PHOTO IMAGE) Black Strip with FOUR contacts and on the OPPOSITE side there are TWO "contacts" that MAY be (and obviously ARE) for the Shield/CaseGround. See this Pinout (both Male and Female) and this Mobo Pinout? I have NO CLUE what you're talking about...

P-I-C-T-U-R-E!!!


I don't have a camera. All I want to know is if a piece of that black coating is worn or chipped, could it damage a device?
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#62
submix8c

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I know of NO "black coating" that you refer to. It's Plastic and adheres to the PINOUT link I gave. Did you LOOK at it? Does yours look like it? Are the Contacts (per the Pinout) STRAIGHT? Is the "Problem Area" you speak of going to "touch" the contacts in a cable plugged into it? Can you SPECIFY whether it's on the OPPOSITE SIDE of the 4-contact side?

I don't know... WILL IT interfere or damage? YOU answer some straight-forward questions or you're on your own! You have a nasty habit of avoiding specifics and that cause US (all of us) to NOT want to assist! BE CLEAR! How about (maybe) you use PAINT or some-such and MAKE a picture?

Four Contacts as seen on LEFT on the "Receptacle", Four Contacts as seen on the RIGHT on a Cable (see link given). Is the "piece of the black coating is worn and appears a clear or silver color" anywhere NEAR those Contacts? Is it REALLY a "worn" spot or is it part of PACKAGING that needs cleaned out? DISCONNECT from inside and check it!

Please SPECIFY with some DETAILS DETAILS DETAILS! (IOW, A-N-S-W-E-R!)

"Something doesn't look right... is there a problem with it?"... GET REAL!

DUDE!!!! FOUR PAGES AND ONLY REAL PROBLEM IS HEADER FOR AUDIO!

Rule #12 applies to individual POSTS as well!

(sheesh!!! shouting now... wonder why?)

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#63
vipejc

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Sub, here's that image you requested. I hope it makes the problem clear. It's definitely a defect, as I attempted to remove it with a damp cloth and then a screwdriver blade. It appears to be metal underneath the black plastic strip.

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Edited by vipejc, 08 January 2013 - 09:36 PM.

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#64
bphlpt

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As far as I know, and from looking at all the female USB connectors that I have access to, that piece of black plastic is solid black plastic with no metal underneath it. I suppose there is a remote chance that your case is unique, but that doesn't seem to make sense, since all the pins rest against it. Being a conductor, such as metal, could lead to problems, I would think. There is also a remote chance that if you believe the defect is metal that it could be solder that got stuck on top of the plastic, but if it is that it should be able to be pried off. If it really is metal underneath a plastic coating and the plastic is chipped, exposing the metal, then I suppose there is a chance of that creating a problem depending on (1) how far around the chip is, (2) what that metal is connected to, (power, ground, or what?), (3) whether it is possible to create a connection across multiple pins on the USB cable as you are plugging it in or even touch any of the pins for that matter, etc, etc. It's hard to say, but I have a hard time believing that black plastic is not solid black plastic. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time. :)

Cheers and Regards

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#65
vipejc

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As far as I know, and from looking at all the female USB connectors that I have access to, that piece of black plastic is solid black plastic with no metal underneath it. I suppose there is a remote chance that your case is unique, but that doesn't seem to make sense, since all the pins rest against it. Being a conductor, such as metal, could lead to problems, I would think. There is also a remote chance that if you believe the defect is metal that it could be solder that got stuck on top of the plastic, but if it is that it should be able to be pried off. If it really is metal underneath a plastic coating and the plastic is chipped, exposing the metal, then I suppose there is a chance of that creating a problem depending on (1) how far around the chip is, (2) what that metal is connected to, (power, ground, or what?), (3) whether it is possible to create a connection across multiple pins on the USB cable as you are plugging it in or even touch any of the pins for that matter, etc, etc. It's hard to say, but I have a hard time believing that black plastic is not solid black plastic. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time. :)

Cheers and Regards


I wish it were solder, but it's definitely metal, or something metallic colored. I attempted to remove it with a sharp screwdriver blade and gentle chiseling, but it won't budge. I did insert a USB flash drive into the port, and the drive read and wrote with no issues, but I'm not sure about the future.
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#66
bphlpt

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If you have a volt/ohm meter, which usually has sharp probes, you could see if the metallic area is connected (shorted) to any of the pins. Test this while system is powered down and unplugged to be safe. You could also try to see with a sharp knife if you could make a mark in the metallic colored area, maybe even see if there is plastic underneath. For that matter, you could see if you could scratch through the non-chipped black area of the plastic to confirm there really is metal underneath the plastic. I still believe it's solid plastic. Or just leave it alone and hope for the best, since it is not causing any problems now. I wouldn't suggest trying to cover up the metallic area with anything since I would think it is likely that whatever you use might eventually flake off while plugging in a cable and gum up the connector deep enough that it would be difficult to clean out.

Cheers and Regards

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#67
submix8c

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First, my apologies on the Pinout "on left/on right" - the LEFT one is the "cable" and the RIGHT one is the "jack" (on the PC). Your picture exactly matches.

If you use a magnifying glass to look inside a cable connector (like I just did) you'll note that it's all plastic EXCEPT the four contacts. You picture indicates that there apparently IS a "defect" but it's in the FACE and will butt right up against the rear of the cable connector (which BETTER be plastic). I see no real problem here and doubt you could even cause a failure when plugging into it even if you tried as a cable slips INTO the jack and not ONTO it. SO... if it indeed HAS +5v at the "defect" you'll never be able to "short" anything anyway.

Does this satisfy your concerns?

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#68
vipejc

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First, my apologies on the Pinout "on left/on right" - the LEFT one is the "cable" and the RIGHT one is the "jack" (on the PC). Your picture exactly matches.

If you use a magnifying glass to look inside a cable connector (like I just did) you'll note that it's all plastic EXCEPT the four contacts. You picture indicates that there apparently IS a "defect" but it's in the FACE and will butt right up against the rear of the cable connector (which BETTER be plastic). I see no real problem here and doubt you could even cause a failure when plugging into it even if you tried as a cable slips INTO the jack and not ONTO it. SO... if it indeed HAS +5v at the "defect" you'll never be able to "short" anything anyway.

Does this satisfy your concerns?


Does anybody have a USB 2.0 type-A port that they wouldn't mind taking a screwdriver to and chiseling away the face of the plastic strip to see if there's metal under it, too? I highly doubt I have some special expensive USB port. I mean, it's China. So if you think this piece is made out of plastic, which I think so too, then I agree. But something silver is on the face of the plastic strip, and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.

Sub, as I said, my USB port pin 1 (the right most pin looking at the port from in front of the PC) is GND, not +5V. In the pinout I used to create my diagram, that USB port was installed so that the 4 contacts were on the top of the plastic strip and pin 1 was called +5V. However, my USB port has the 4 contacts on the bottom of the plastic strip, making pin 1 the GND, right? So if the defect is above the GND pin, as I think it is, is this port still completely safe to use?
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#69
submix8c

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DUDE, you are a JACKWAGON!!!

THIS Image is from the LINK pinouts.ru - WHERE is it different from YOURS?

Pin Name Cable color Description
1 VCC Red +5 VDC
2 D- White Data -
3 D+ Green Data +
4 GND Black Ground <--- FOUR! GND LIKE YOURS!!!

LOOK AT YOUR FREAKIN' THUMBNAIL! COMPARE TO THE BELOW IMAGE! FOUR PINS ON THE BOTTOM! It is EXACTLY correct!!! DAY-UM!!!

AS I SAID, It is IRRELEVANT as it's in the FACING!!! YOU tell ME how you can "short" a CABLE when you INSERT IT - NO FREAKIN' WAY! Why don't you do a CONTINUITY CHECK for GND if you wish OR with a Multimeter PROPERLY SET for +VDC (red="bare spot" black=metal casing) while ON to PROVE whether its "plastic" or not!!! It COULD be a "hole" in the FACING where the CONTACT is MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC! AND IS IRRELEVANT!!!

TEAR UP YOUR OLD CASE'S PORTS (it's empty, RIGHT?)!!! I refuse to tear up MINE!!!

My last nerve!!! You just LOVE to argue, don't you??? Done!!!
You'll not get ONE SINGLE RESPONSE from me... ANYWHERE!!!
If I get chewed for being RUDE, then SO BE IT!!!

EDIT!!! Starting to believe you're maybe one of the SPAMMERS!

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Edited by submix8c, 09 January 2013 - 08:12 PM.

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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#70
vipejc

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DUDE, you are a JACKWAGON!!!

THIS Image is from the LINK pinouts.ru - WHERE is it different from YOURS?

Pin Name Cable color Description
1 VCC Red +5 VDC
2 D- White Data -
3 D+ Green Data +
4 GND Black Ground <--- FOUR! GND LIKE YOURS!!!

LOOK AT YOUR FREAKIN' THUMBNAIL! COMPARE TO THE BELOW IMAGE! FOUR PINS ON THE BOTTOM! It is EXACTLY correct!!! DAY-UM!!!

AS I SAID, It is IRRELEVANT as it's in the FACING!!! YOU tell ME how you can "short" a CABLE when you INSERT IT - NO FREAKIN' WAY! Why don't you do a CONTINUITY CHECK for GND if you wish OR with a Multimeter PROPERLY SET for +VDC (red="bare spot" black=metal casing) while ON to PROVE whether its "plastic" or not!!! It COULD be a "hole" in the FACING where the CONTACT is MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC! AND IS IRRELEVANT!!!

TEAR UP YOUR OLD CASE'S PORTS (it's empty, RIGHT?)!!! I refuse to tear up MINE!!!

My last nerve!!! You just LOVE to argue, don't you??? Done!!!
You'll not get ONE SINGLE RESPONSE from me... ANYWHERE!!!
If I get chewed for being RUDE, then SO BE IT!!!

EDIT!!! Starting to believe you're maybe one of the SPAMMERS!


Relax, buddy. First, I didn't use that image. I used another image, which is why pins 1 and 4 are switched, because the port orientation is different. What's your problem? You ask for info, and I give it to you. Now you're calling me a spammer. I'm not a USB maker. I don't know enough about the subject, which is why I asked for help. Why can't you be polite and try to help, instead of always being condescending and rude? Take a page from bphlpt's book. It's not a hole in the plastic for a contact. I'm selling my old case, so I don't want to ruin the USB port. I wasn't saying take a used working port on your live system and destroy it. I asked anybody if they had a defective USB 2.0 type-A port, if they would take the job. Where have I argued with you? I actually agreed with you about that strip probably being 100% plastic.

Edited by vipejc, 09 January 2013 - 08:49 PM.

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#71
submix8c

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If you use a magnifying glass to look inside a cable connector (like I just did) you'll note that it's all plastic EXCEPT the four contacts. You picture indicates that there apparently IS a "defect" but it's in the FACE and will butt right up against the rear of the cable connector (which BETTER be plastic). I see no real problem here and doubt you could even cause a failure when plugging into it even if you tried as a cable slips INTO the jack and not ONTO it. SO... if it indeed HAS +5v at the "defect" you'll never be able to "short" anything anyway.

I used another image, which is why pins 1 and 4 are switched

You never said that you said this

Sub, here's that image you requested. I hope it makes the problem clear. It's definitely a defect, as I attempted to remove it with a damp cloth and then a screwdriver blade. It appears to be metal underneath the black plastic strip.

Now, look AGAIN at YOUR Picture - DID YOU SAY THE PIN# REVERSED? No! And THAT, sir is... IMPOSSIBLE (that they are reversed)! MAYBE you are CONFUSING the MOBO PimOut Pin#1-4 (which has NO BEARING on the Front Connector) - see attached (YOUR MOBO). See how the OTHER ONE is Pin#2??? 1-3-5-7-KEY and 2-4-6-8-NC - "A NOT= B" !!! Good Glory! SURELY you're not as dumb as a bag of rocks and this is some kind of joke!

edit - Try disconnecting the Front Cable and do a Continuity Test between contact and the cable connector - bet you're WRONG! HUMOR ME!!! DO IT!
----------- Did you even THINK of something like this?

and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.

Electronics Forum...

Yes, virtually all epoxies & most other glues are completely non conductive when dry, unless specifically stated otherwise.
In fact, epoxy is often the material of choice for high voltage insulating jobs. It's also what most circuit boards are made of.

Get some, mix it, smear flat with a piece of paper and let dry. DONE! Problem solved!

The horse is dead! Long live the new horse! Move on to something useful and quit bugging people...

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Edited by submix8c, 09 January 2013 - 10:32 PM.

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#72
vipejc

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Actually, Sub, I did tell you. I even wrote a note below the diagram explaining it. I've attached the image I used so you can see why I said that.

Now, notice how that USB port has the four contacts ABOVE the plastic strip and pin 1 is +5V. Well, my USB port has the four contacts BELOW the plastic strip, so I assume pin 1 is GND, because if you rotate the USB port 180 degrees, GND becomes pin 1. Do you understand me?

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Edited by vipejc, 09 January 2013 - 11:45 PM.

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#73
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I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.

Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.
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#74
submix8c

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BWAHAHAHAH!!! That's STILL correct even if UPSIDE-DOWN!

1-2-3-4 (pinouts.ru)
4-3-2-1 (yours upside-down)

Mine are "sideways" - does that make them all "1-1-1-1" or would that be "4-4-4-4"?

If a Commercial Jet flips over, does the Pilot/Copilot Seats magically "reverse" (or "mirror")?

Care to play a game of Star Trek 3-D Chess with me?

Have you ever dated Lindsay Lohan?

[/snarks]

Ennyhoo, you've been specifically answered. I'm betting it's a "coloration bubble" from when the plastic part of the component was molded over the contacts. Same thing can happen when Fiberglass is mixed and spread (check out some aftermarket fiberglass automobile products). ;)

Indeed (from another of your topics - CPU Upgrade)

This is my main system. This system meets all my current and, as far as I can see, future needs. I have absolutely no desire or need to upgrade my system now or, as far as I can see, ever. I know exactly what I'm doing and have put extreme thought into future-proofing my system.

Move on, please... :whistle:

Edited by submix8c, 10 January 2013 - 11:55 AM.

Someday the tyrants will be unthroned... Jason "Jay" Chasteen; RIP, bro!

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vipejc

vipejc

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I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.

Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.


Thanks so much for doing that. What do you suppose this anonymous metallic defect could be? I highly doubt it's solder, as that's white, not metallic. It appears to be a slight indent from a scratch where a round portion of metal shows.
There's no such thing as a dumb computer question. Each of us interprets info differently. - Me




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