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Motherboard front panel header and case front panel connectors don&#39


vipejc

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Motherboard

Pin 1: AUD_MIC1

Pin 2: AUD_GND

Pin 3: AUD_MIC2

Pin 4: AUD_VCC

Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R

Pin 6: AUD_RET_R

Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L

Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case

Pin 1: MIC

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: MIC BIAS

Pin 4: AUD GND

Pin 5: FPOUT R

Pin 6: RET R

Pin 7: +5V

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: FPOUT L

Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.

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Which motherboard?

Which case?

Compare with (as an example):

http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/600167.aspx

Or with :whistle: :

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/307986-10-where-plug-bias

Just tell me where to plug in "mic bias" and "mic in" here is a pic of my sound card ...
you need to plug it in a rabbits ear. the mic bias goes in rabbits left ear, the mic in goes in rabbits right ear. You dont want to know where the sound out plugs into

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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Posted the same question here. Some kind of Compaq Case was original (apparently). Did you try TRACING the wiring on the OLD case to correlate to the NEW case pins using a meter ("continuity")? All you'll get with the original question are "wild guesses", of which I can ONLY vouch for the +5v pin (case) is really the VCC pin (MoBo) since that's USUALLY what VCC means.

Edit - and there appears to be several MoBo's with that configuration.

Edit2 -

ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E
Edited by submix8c
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Edit2... ;) Must be boring without all of those Vista Business spam posts. :w00t:

Should a recommendation be given for where to find a cheap meter? And how to set for Continuity? :)

(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

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Should a recommendation be given for where to find a cheap meter?

Naaah, been there, done that (remember to search ;)):

Any El-Cheapo Multimeter will do. This is the one I use. It has good enough voltmeter and ohmmeter capabilities, which is all we'll need, and some more nice capabilities, and a very nice price.

"My" link is - strangely enough :w00t: - still valid :whistle: .

jaclaz

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Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1, 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

Edited by vipejc
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I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time.

Well, you could use it to also experimentally measure the current absorption of a fan, or the voltage level coming out of fan motherboard header ..... :whistle:

:lol:

More seriously I simply cannot conceive the idea of someone dealing with electronics mods (or assembling PC's) having not at least an el-cheapo or el-cheaper ;) multimeter handy.

Particularly with "loose" connectors such as (example):

http://forums.ocworkbench.com/showthread.php?t=49396

I personally would never even think of connecting them before having made triple sure of which is what with a multimeter :ph34r: .

(exchanging data connectors is not an issue, but +5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference between a working something and that peculiar smell of burned chips - no, not potato chips - that usually translates to "bucks flying out of the window")

And now, for NO apparent reasons and spuddenly :angel :

funny_demotivational_20.jpg

jaclaz

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1 Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. 2 I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. 3 Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1 (now this one too?), 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. 4 I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

1 Smart-axe responses will get you zilch. Typically, you expect crystal-ball answers. ALL hardware has it's differences unless the EXACT SAME ITEM, in which "case"... DUH!!!

2 Who said a few wires at a time to check continuity? Unplug the cable from MoBo and CHECK (front panel, remember?)!

(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

3

Motherboard

Pin 1: AUD_MIC1

Pin 2: AUD_GND

Pin 3: AUD_MIC2

Pin 4: AUD_VCC <-Case Pin#7

Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R

Pin 6: AUD_RET_R

Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L

Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case

Pin 1: MIC

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: MIC BIAS

Pin 4: AUD GND

Pin 5: FPOUT R

Pin 6: RET R

Pin 7: +5V <-Motherboard Pin#4

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: FPOUT L

Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.

4 Colors may be all out of whack. You STILL will need to check continuity. ;)

*

+5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference
(see #2,#4)
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1 Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. 2 I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. 3 Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1 (now this one too?), 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. 4 I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.

1 Smart-axe responses will get you zilch. Typically, you expect crystal-ball answers. ALL hardware has it's differences unless the EXACT SAME ITEM, in which "case"... DUH!!!

2 Who said a few wires at a time to check continuity? Unplug the cable from MoBo and CHECK (front panel, remember?)!

(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)

3

Motherboard

Pin 1: AUD_MIC1

Pin 2: AUD_GND

Pin 3: AUD_MIC2

Pin 4: AUD_VCC <-Case Pin#7

Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R

Pin 6: AUD_RET_R

Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L

Pin 10: AUD_RET_L

Case

Pin 1: MIC

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: MIC BIAS

Pin 4: AUD GND

Pin 5: FPOUT R

Pin 6: RET R

Pin 7: +5V <-Motherboard Pin#4

Pin 8: NO PIN

Pin 9: FPOUT L

Pin 10: RET L

I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.

4 Colors may be all out of whack. You STILL will need to check continuity. ;)

*

+5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference
(see #2,#4)

1. Wasn't directed at you or Jaclaz. I appreciate your efforts.

2. The more I researched, the less confident I became in certain pins.

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Well, FWIW, it appears the the answer you got over at the OC forum is similar to the one given here. Although I could be wrong based on the specs. This indicates you have a Compaq model similar to a SR1030NX. You see, without knowing EXACTLY what your OLD case is (IOW, the Compaq MODEL) as well as the MoBo as well as the NEW case we are only... GUESSING. You've consistently stubbornly refused to give any details other than that which you wish to provide. This just cause us to DRAG info from you to further... GUESS.

According to the Specs page, the Rear connectors are the basic (top-to-bottom) "Line IN" "Line OUT" "Mic IN" and probably changeable to accommodate 6-CH Dolby Surround (all are OUT). I will VENTURE to say the the "FPOUT"/"RET" are the "typical" contacts that (possibly) "disconnect" the Back Panel OUT in lieu of FP-Headphones (FPOUT/tip = + and RET/sleeve = -), the "-" side laying against the "+" side to allow "through" to Rear Connectors. The "MIC2" is PROBABLY for a Condensor(?)-type Mic(?).

You can SEE why we have suggested you TRACE the FRONT through the CABLE (disconnected from the MoBo) via Continuity Check (touch stuff inside the FRONT to an PIN on the MoBo end of the CABLE). Possibly, this BOX has a PC-board in the back of the FRONT that could ENTIRELY change the circuitry. Did you check that? You MAY have to (AFTER thorough Continuity check and DEPENDING on an additional PC-Board) "rig"/rewire the CABLE (or NEW cable?) to adapt to the MoBo. You ARE dealing with a "Compaq/HP Modified" ASUS MoBo, you know...

Finally, according to SR1030NX Specs the Front Panel has the same sound connections, although I'd bet that it's STRICTLY "L/R Line In/Out" and "Mic (mono) IN" and NOT able to change to Surround as this is USUALLY how it works. I COULD be wrong and MIC1/2 COULD indicate a "L/R"-style mic (UNKNOWN). "JD" COULD mean "Jumper Detect" (whatever that might be?).

Google'd

"front panel" "mic jd"

That's all any of us "experts" can give without exact info and further reference links. ;)

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Well, FWIW, it appears the the answer you got over at the OC forum is similar to the one given here. Although I could be wrong based on the specs. This indicates you have a Compaq model similar to a SR1030NX. You see, without knowing EXACTLY what your OLD case is (IOW, the Compaq MODEL) as well as the MoBo as well as the NEW case we are only... GUESSING. You've consistently stubbornly refused to give any details other than that which you wish to provide. This just cause us to DRAG info from you to further... GUESS.

According to the Specs page, the Rear connectors are the basic (top-to-bottom) "Line IN" "Line OUT" "Mic IN" and probably changeable to accommodate 6-CH Dolby Surround (all are OUT). I will VENTURE to say the the "FPOUT"/"RET" are the "typical" contacts that (possibly) "disconnect" the Back Panel OUT in lieu of FP-Headphones (FPOUT/tip = + and RET/sleeve = -), the "-" side laying against the "+" side to allow "through" to Rear Connectors. The "MIC2" is PROBABLY for a Condensor(?)-type Mic(?).

You can SEE why we have suggested you TRACE the FRONT through the CABLE (disconnected from the MoBo) via Continuity Check (touch stuff inside the FRONT to an PIN on the MoBo end of the CABLE). Possibly, this BOX has a PC-board in the back of the FRONT that could ENTIRELY change the circuitry. Did you check that? You MAY have to (AFTER thorough Continuity check and DEPENDING on an additional PC-Board) "rig"/rewire the CABLE (or NEW cable?) to adapt to the MoBo. You ARE dealing with a "Compaq/HP Modified" ASUS MoBo, you know...

Finally, according to SR1030NX Specs the Front Panel has the same sound connections, although I'd bet that it's STRICTLY "L/R Line In/Out" and "Mic (mono) IN" and NOT able to change to Surround as this is USUALLY how it works. I COULD be wrong and MIC1/2 COULD indicate a "L/R"-style mic (UNKNOWN). "JD" COULD mean "Jumper Detect" (whatever that might be?).

Google'd

"front panel" "mic jd"

That's all any of us "experts" can give without exact info and further reference links. ;)

I wasn't being stubborn. I didn't tell you model names because I thought the new case connectors and motherboard header schematics were all you needed. I will happily provide any details you require. All you have to do is ask. This should get you started:

Compaq SR1030NX ATX mid-tower case

New case is a Cooler Master Elite 335 ATX mid-tower

Mobo is an ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E

What else would you like? I know my entire system like the back of my hand, from the BIOS revision to the CPU stepping code. This is the first time in 8 years I've ever dealt with case connectors and motherboard headers, so I'm learning as I go. And thanks to the incredibly stupid case and motherboard makers, I never ever want to deal with this lunacy again.

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Specifically talks about "rewiring". That would include the LED's, Powers Switch, FP-connector, etc.

http://forums.windrivers.com/showthread.php?71268-Asus-A7V8X-LA-Motherboard-ATX-question

No details in the link, just what we've stated.

Apparently this fellow used a A7V8X docs to solve his problem -

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2424660-asus_a7v8x_la_front_audio_wires_unplug

NOTE that this is the "other" model (Kamet2) as spoken of in this thread -

http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/18271/

NOTE also the comment about "plugging into front disables rear"

I found your SPECIFIC MoBo here -

http://www.elhvb.com/mboards/oem/hp/manual/

Scroll down to Kelut - yep it matches what you gave.

Everything HP/Compaq -

http://www.elhvb.com/mboards/oem/HP/index.html

Didn't look too far into the Kelut manual but probably matches this for "other than sound"

http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/a7v8x-la-front-panel-motherboard/

It looks like you'll HAVE to Continuity check the OLD cable to the OLD FRONT and act accordingly...

AGAIN, if it has a "Front Panel I/O Board" it'll make it more difficult due to having to "trace through" (visually?).

That's all, folks!

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I made a mistake. I was thinking the motherboard was smaller than it was. During my practice run, I discovered the case and motherboard screw hole locations perfectly match. Now to get that Delta fan and I'll put the cooler in Cooler Master. And if I ever actually need the front panel ports, I'll buy a cheap multimeter and test the front panel pins. :yes:

Edited by vipejc
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