JorgeA Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Yes. What we suggested was that.More specifically, we suggested that you should plug connectors from the new PSU in place of all the connectors you unplug from de old PSU, except for the HDDs' connectors (which you should leave unconnected), so that, if the problem was really the PSU, then the computer will turn on, but will not boot, because the HDDs are not connected, so you can turn it off without having to wait for the boot to finish and then having to shut down the system. After you start the machine successfuly some two or three times, and let it stay on for a minute or two each time, to ensure the board is stable and all the fans are working, then you might consider performing the more tiresome work of actually removing the old PSU and replacing it by the new one for good. Thanks, den. As for the thingies that keep the wires bundled together inside the PC case, umm, I too thought they were called "zip ties." Garbage bag twist ties will do just as well of course, although they don't look as nice. I'll report back when I get to test the new PSU. --JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Oh and I forgot the most important thing when replacing a PSU. You will need some zip ties ... Well, I guess it depends on local habits, we're much less formal here and I never actually needed one : http://www.ohgizmo.com/2013/02/11/zip-tie-theres-no-need-for-knots-just-zip-it-up/ jaclaz That's pretty funny. --JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) Quick question: The old PSU's connection to the CPU (or at least, the connection next to where the CPU fan is located) consists of four pins in a 2x2 array. The new PSU comes with a double set of 2x2 connectors which can be snapped together or pulled apart from each other. Which of these two 2x2 sets should I hook up, or does it not really matter which one? How about if I connect the inner two from each set, so that there is one unconnected row sticking out at either end of the array? I can post photos if that will help. --JorgeA P.S. The Corsair came with its own set of tie wraps (zip ties?), so we don't need to worry about that. Edited October 27, 2014 by JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 The old PSU had a two black two yellow cables 2x2 connector and the new one has just one like that too. The other 2x2 bears one each of a red, a yellow, an orange and a black cable and is connected together with the longer, 20 connectors plug, forming a 24 cable plug assembly... it is put n the side of the 20 connectors which does not have two orange cables side-by-side. If the 20 connectors and the correct 4 connectors plugs are aligned to plug them in, the red cable in the smaller connector will be beside a red cable in the bigger one and a yellow cable on one will be beside a yellow one on the other. Moreover, when that pair of connectors is assembled correctly, the latch will be roughly in the middle of the assembly. Look carefully at the picture below... the 20 cables connector is at the left and the 4 connectors is to the right of the observer. Also read again the ATX PSU part of this Wikipedia entry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripredacus Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I am to think that Jorge's PSU has these 2 2x2 (4pin) connectors this way for compatibility with the 8 pin CPU power connectors. Whichever fits, I say. If you are unsure, try the power on test minus HDDs and see what happens. Regarding CPU power connectors, the board won't POST without them, even if the main ATX board connection is connected. I call this "fans on but no picture on the TV." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Thanks guys. This PSU (surprisingly) comes with a power on/off (I/O) switch right on the PSU case itself. Given that the PC itself has its own power switch, I can't imagine under what circumstances that I/O switch would be needed on a PC. I connected the power cord to the electrical outlet and then to the back of the PSU, then flipped that on/off switch. Nothing seems to be happening. Isn't it supposed to spin up, start whirring, light up or something? Whether I connect it to the mobo or not, I would expect to get SOME indication that it's actually doing something. How can one tell if this thing is actually running? What am I missing? Also tried plugging into a different electrical outlet, in fact on a surge protector strip that is feeding a presently running floor lamp and small fan. No dice. How can I establish whether this PSU is alive or dead-on-arrival? --JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Another disconcerting aspect of this PSU is that the fan is on the side, i.e. it would be blowing into (or sucking from) the inside of the PC case. Can that be right? (For obvious reasons, though, right now I'm more interested in determining whether the thing is even working at all.) --JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Brand PSUs like Corsairs have usually 120 mm fans, suck air from the side you see the fan inside and blow it out the side that has the power cord connector (and usually a power switch) on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Good, thanks. I see the open grill on the back and now it makes sense. How should one go about establishing if it's working properly? --JorgeA Edited October 28, 2014 by JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelsenellenelvian Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 The psu has a redundant power switch they all have for quite a long time. Also the psu will not fully activate until the motherboard has the connector hooked up and relays are connected it is a fail safe. No reason for it to turn on and waste power or burn anything up if it doesn't need to power anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Check the 220V/110V switch on the PSU to ensure it's set correctly. Then, with the PSU switched off and not connected to the wall outlet, make all connections inside the machine, as discussed. THen connect the cable to the PSU, then plug it into the wall. Turn the PSU switch on, cross your fingers, then press the power on button on the case. Does the machine start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) ^^ All right then, I'll try turning it on again with the mobo and CPU connectors hooked up. (That didn't seem to do anything the first time, but I'll try it again.) Success!!! This time, when I pressed the PC power switch, I could see the PSU fan as well as the CPU cooler fan spinning up. Did it three times and it powered up each time. The first time, I heard a short POST-like beep, but not the other times. It's getting late here. I'll let it run for a while, then check up on it and if it's still running, I will turn it back off and await further instructions from you all in the morning. Maybe next I should connect the optical disk and see what happens, then finally the HDD? --JorgeA EDIT: @dencorso: I started working on my post before yours appeared, so they crossed in cyberspace. There's no voltage selection switch on this PSU, that was another confusing thing. But Corsair's page says this is a Universal AC input from 90~264V — No more hassle of flipping that tiny red switch to select the voltage input! Ah, one less thing to worry about. Edited October 28, 2014 by JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 This PSU (surprisingly) comes with a power on/off (I/O) switch right on the PSU case itself. Given that the PC itself has its own power switch, I can't imagine under what circumstances that I/O switch would be needed on a PC. What you have to understand is that ATX supplies (UNlike older AT models) is actually made of TWO power supplies . One (a very little one, and actually not a "separate item", but a part of the main circuit) is "always on" (and this is how you can have Wake On Lan or, on some BIOSes switching the computer on by keyboard key presses, which simply switch on the "large part" actually powering most of the circuits. The net card and some other parts of the PC are always powered, ready to "bring back to life" the PC. If you prefer, an ATX powered PC is NEVER "fully OFF" unless the power switch on the PSU is turned off. Having a "real" ON/OFF switch on the PSU is a "feature", useful if you want to really have it off, short of unplugging the cable. jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JorgeA Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Many thanks for filling me in on this, jaclaz, It makes sense now. --JorgeA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Maybe next I should connect the optical disk and see what happens, then finally the HDD?Sounds like a good plan. Is the monitor connected? What do you see on it when you power on? And after connecting the optical drive (with no disc in it), what do you see? Now give it a live linux disc, say, the current stable Porteus (or whichever you fancy). Does the machine go all the way to the linux desktop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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