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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a bricked Seagate

But I have a point of confusion.

I have been through several forums.

In some cases the card stock is separating the drives circuit board from the drive contacts and in another forum I see the card stock separating the circuit board form the head contacts, which is it???

Also, did anyone put the instructions in a pdf for download???

Thank you in advance and my apologies if this has been covered elsewhere.

RD

Hi Rocketdog

There is a very good guide by Carter-in-Canada (not in pdf, but you can convert it to pdf if you really want to). You will find a link to that it the Read_Me First which you can find here http://www.msfn.org/...-read-me-first/.

Edited by BlouBul
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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted

In some cases the card stock is separating the drives circuit board from the drive contacts and in another forum I see the card stock separating the circuit board form the head contacts, which is it???

The relevant part is this one (on the guide by CarterinCanada):

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

(Note: Some guides on the web have suggested insulating the *other* set of contacts (the "head" contacts) you see in the lower left of the above photo to the right. I tried this originally and it didn't work for me but obviously others have had some success with it. In *my* case, with 1TB model drives, I can assure you that insulating the slightly easier to access motor contacts worked where the head contacts method didn't. I suspect the specific model of your drive will account for the varying levels of the results so if one way doesn't work for you, think about trying the other. You'll know to look here if the HyperTerminal session won't allow you to spin down the drive and continues to give you the BSY error in reply - "LED:01...blah blah blah". If you're allowed to spin down the drive, then this bit isn't your issue.)

This non-issue is also detailed here:

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&st=2999

jaclaz

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CylonWolf

CylonWolf

Posted
Posted

I feel bad asking this because Im sure its been covered in 160 pages, but here goes anyhow:

I had a Seagate 750GB HDD disappear in Windows last week. Doesnt appear in BIOS either, and noticed when it was hooked up (Ive unhooked it for now) that the HDD light was on solid. From what Ive been able to find out on the issue, this sounds like the BSY state bug. However, Seagate tells me that based on my serial number, my drive is not affected...they say there is a firmware update available, but my drive is not affected by this particular firmware issue. The person I spoke with believed I probably just had a failed drive...talked like they had identified all HDDs affected by this issued, but from what I have found in this thread, it sounds like theyve been a little less than honest on this issue. My question is, will the method mentioned on this board work for me, or is my only chance of recovery through a data recovery service?

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

I feel bad asking this because Im sure its been covered in 160 pages, but here goes anyhow:

I had a Seagate 750GB HDD disappear in Windows last week. Doesnt appear in BIOS either, and noticed when it was hooked up (Ive unhooked it for now) that the HDD light was on solid. From what Ive been able to find out on the issue, this sounds like the BSY state bug. However, Seagate tells me that based on my serial number, my drive is not affected...they say there is a firmware update available, but my drive is not affected by this particular firmware issue. The person I spoke with believed I probably just had a failed drive...talked like they had identified all HDDs affected by this issued, but from what I have found in this thread, it sounds like theyve been a little less than honest on this issue. My question is, will the method mentioned on this board work for me, or is my only chance of recovery through a data recovery service?

Hi CylonWolf,

Welcome to the MSFN :hello:

Do not under any circumstances believe anything Seagate has to say about this issue, :no: especially which drives are Not effected, most of the 7200.11's are :yes: (all firmwares before SD1A).

If you have 7200.11 with SD15, SD25, SD35 etc, This method should work. See the Read-me-first http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/ for a summary of all the gory detail (then you do not have to struggle through all of the 160 pages)

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Coffeecup

Coffeecup

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone.

After 2.5 years of working fine my Barracuda Seagate 7200.11 HDD died on me.

It had some really vital data on it (such as pictures and school stuff) that I would hate to loose.

So I got around to checking the internet in the hopes of my finding out what went wrong.

First I bought a new hdd (dont worry, I got a samsung this time, I am done with Seagate), and a new external casing for the old hdd.

The external casing didnt help sadly.

So I started looking again, turns out I suffered the BSY State Bug (drive is not recognised on startup or in the bios anymore).

Had I known about this timebomb in my pc then I would have updated the firmware ages ago, sadly, this was not the case.

I found the tutorial by Carter-In-Canada but since I am as technical as a doorknop and I dont have any of the materials nor would

I know where to get any of thos materials (especially the breadboard) I am kind of at a dead end here.

I dont have an extra psu etc.

I dont suppose any of you might have an idea that isnt hard to do, nor requires materials that are hard to find?

Thanks

Coffeecup

Edited by Coffeecup
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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted (edited)

I found the tutorial by Carter-In-Canada but since I am as technical as a doorknop and I dont have any of the materials nor would

I know where to get any of thos materials (especially the breadboard) I am kind of at a dead end here.

I dont have an extra psu etc.

I dont suppose any of you might have an idea that isnt hard to do, nor requires materials that are hard to find?

Hi CoffeeCup,

The tutorial by CarterinCanada is actually the easy way (and doorknob friendly). It seems quite difficult at first, but pour yourself a cup of coffee, and read it two or three times to get the concepts. The most difficult part is the building of the converter with components you probably never have heard of before.

After you have the concepts you can decide on your options.

1. Decide it is too difficult for you, and ask a more technical minded friend / local computer shop to help you with it (show them the guide if they don't know the procedure)

2. Decide it looks difficult, but you will still try it. Ask your local electronic shop for the components.

3. Take chance and look for a CA-42/DKU-5 cable with driver cd. That way you won't have to build a converter and we can probably get it to work...

I will try to guide you with any of the three options

Good Luck

Edited by BlouBul
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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dont suppose any of you might have an idea that isnt hard to do, nor requires materials that are hard to find?

Sure :), it's called "ask to a professional" BUT requires materials that are hard to find (banknotes, in a rather huge amount). :whistle:

Come on, use your own little gray cells, if there was an easier way, why do you think we are hanging to this one? :w00t:

For the record, this lacks totally of logic:

Had I known about this timebomb in my pc then I would have updated the firmware ages ago, sadly, this was not the case.

This is logical:

No matter if I know or not of any problems on the hard disk I am using, next time I'll do BACKUPS!

Anyway, it's not really difficult, you just need some patience and time, and be calm. :yes:

If you have a friend with a minimal experience in electronics/electricity that can help you there won't be ANY problem at all. :thumbup

@Bloubul

Obviously the idea of suggesting to a "doorknob" using a DKU-5/CA-42 cable is making things really difficult.

As written n times by now, a technically knowledgeable peep won't have ANY problem using, in order of difficulty:

  1. a "proper" converter with KNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  2. a "proper" converter with UNKNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  3. ANY converter with KNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  4. ANY converter with UNKNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  5. a "known to be not fake" DKU-5/CA-42 cable with KNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  6. a "known to be not fake" DKU-5/CA-42 cable with UNKNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  7. ANY DKU-5/CA-42 cable with UNKNOWN connections, voltage requirements, etc.
  8. WITHOUT ANY converter and just build one from a handful of scrap parts he has in his basement

What you suggested to Coffecup is #7 in the above list. :(

Difference between the cost of #1 and #7:

  • absolute maximum 30 US$
  • usually much less, around 5÷8 US$

EXAMPLES of #1:

USB to TTL 3V:

This is the most expensive I have ever seen in my life (NOT recommended):

http://cgi.ebay.it/CAVO-USB-3V-TTL-per-HD-Seagate-7200-11-VER-PRO-rs232-/190426361136?pt=Accessori_per_Radioamatori&hash=item2c564bad30

This is the "average":

http://cgi.ebay.it/TTL-INTERFACCIA-Seagate-7200-11-RS232-BSY-FIX-FIRMWARE-/170541063840?pt=Accessori_per_Radioamatori&hash=item27b50a1ea0

This is cheap:

http://cgi.ebay.it/2-x-PL2303-USB-TTL-RS232-Serial-Port-Converter-Adapter-/220663946707?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3360989dd3

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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BlouBul

BlouBul

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Posted

@Bloubul

Obviously the idea of suggesting to a "doorknob" using a DKU-5/CA-42 cable is making things really difficult.

To hopefully clear this point, they do work, most probably ALL of them, original and "fake", do work, IF:

  • the cable is NOT damaged when opening the connector
  • the CORRECT connections are found
  • the cable is NOT damaged in attempts to find the right connections
  • the PROPER driver is found
  • the PROPER driver is PROPERLY installed

If a doorknob is guided to find the right connections by looking at the Nokia End (which is standard on all cables), he won't damage the cable by trying to open the USB end and hoping to find some markings there. If he further gets it with an installation cd, the drivers should not be a problem.:)

That will give him the same thing as your converters. Sometimes a Nokia cable seems less threatening and easier to locate for a technological challenged person :) .

I must admit your third link is very good value for money. :yes:

@CoffeeCup

Whichever method you choose, I agree totally with jaclaz: Anyway, it's not really difficult, you just need some patience and time, and be calm.

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jaclaz

jaclaz

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Posted

If a doorknob is guided to find the right connections by looking at the Nokia End (which is standard on all cables), he won't damage the cable by trying to open the USB end and hoping to find some markings there. If he further gets it with an installation cd, the drivers should not be a problem.:)

That will give him the same thing as your converters. Sometimes a Nokia cable seems less threatening and easier to locate for a technological challenged person :) .

In my experience "doorknobs" tend to have problems in managing a knife/cutter, a soldering gun, a multimeter, etc.

Not wanting in any way to put down anyone :), only trying to point out the "easiest" ways....

I must admit your third link is very good value for money. :yes:

Sure :), I may be cheap (please read as "am") , but I know where my towel is. ;)

Whichever method you choose, I agree totally with jaclaz: Anyway, it's not really difficult, you just need some patience and time, and be calm.

Yep, that's point #14 of the read-me-first in a nutshell. :thumbup

jaclaz

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted (edited)

[in my experience "doorknobs" tend to have problems in managing a knife/cutter, a soldering gun, a multimeter, etc.

Not wanting in any way to put down anyone :), only trying to point out the "easiest" ways....

I'm the eternal optimist, always trying to turn a doorknob in someone useful... ;)

@CoffeeCup

jaclaz is right (Again!). First try to get hold of the converters he mentioned. If you can't get hold of something suitable, we can try the Nokia cable.

Edited by BlouBul
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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted

I'm the eternal optimist, always trying to turn a doorknob in someone useful... ;)

Actually doorknobs can be useful, a few examples ;):

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpRSEJY0cTI

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TvhG_B5d20

hxxp://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=34036139

:lol:

jaclaz

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted (edited)

Actually doorknobs can be useful, a few examples ;):

@CoffeeCup:

See, there is hope for you after all!!! :yes:

To translate into doorknob-compatible language:

If you use any of the converters mentioned, you do not need to build your own and following CarterinCanada's guide you will only need the following on his parts list to fix your drive:

no 1 Torx 6 screwdriver

no.7 Power adapter (if your PC doesn't have a spare SATA power connection already)

no. 10 Terminal emulation program

no. 11 Cardstock

no.12 Sandpaper/ knife (maybe)

The one end of the converter plugs into your USB port and the other three wires connect to your hdd. Then there is no need for the breadboard and stuff you are worried about.

Edited by BlouBul
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